2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 'bout time for brakes

[LHallmark]

Well, the brakes on the ole '96 are getting tired, so started a research project. Searched the TDR and thte 'net on the subject and did a LOT of reading.

(A) Raybestos looked good, but they don't post their prices on thte net and wanted to charge me $1. 75 a minute for telephone time and then put me ON HOLD!!! Scratch them... ... .

(B) Looks like EGR may be the winner, although they are more expensive than Tirerack.com by a factor of X2.

Question... ... Is the carbon-kevlar the way to go? How about life of the pads ? How about Dust from wear? Should I go slotted only or slotted/dimpled rotors for max braking and longest life?

I plan on new shoes and 1 ton cyl on the rear as well.

OK, guys..... take your best shot..... waiting for replys.....

 

[jtwcummins]

I went with EGR despite the cost. Get slotted rotors, no drilling. Drilled rotors don't like the extreme heat generated by these trucks. Kevlar pads has not been a brake dust issue. If you are going to keep truck do the whole front brake upgrade from EGR and get the bigger rear cylinders from them.



I have been running the complete front from EGR for a couple of years and have never been sorry, great bakes, no pull or fade as long as rears are close to properly adjusted.

 

[RT66DOC]

What about the EGR rear disc setup? Worth the $$$?

 

[jtwcummins]

Not in a hurry to do EGR rears. Just used bigger cylinders and raybestos shoes. Kepp adjusted and you will have good brakes. have heard the kevlar shoes are very 'grabby'

 

[Leon R]

I am coming up to 190,000 klms on my truck and just received my second set of carbomet pads from Sam Peterson today which I plan on putting on before our Yukon/Alaska trip this June. This will be my forth set a front pads and I am still on the original rears. Have not had to turn the rotors yet and it stops just fine. I have been very pleased with the carbomet pads.

 

[LHallmark]

Thanks ,Guys , for the responses... ... ... Looks like EGR is the answer, however I will contact Sam Peterson before making final decision. Again, thanks for the response. This site is the best $35. 00 I have ever spent. Oo. :-laf

 

[DRAG DIESEL]

Ceramix from Napa, huge improvement from 140mph to 70mph, and when towing what seems like zero fade and when the get hot the seem to grab better. 100% improvment over regular semi's, and only 80 bucks.

 

[y-knot]

Don't worry if you go with EGR you will have great brakes, they have great products. I installed their there pads and rear shoes last fall, I could not believe how much better the brakes were after the installation. I though they would help, but never dreamed they would help that much, also they don't make near the brake dust as the old ones did.

I do have to make an exception to the claim that drilled rotors are a problem. Back when people were first trying drilled rotors there were many that did fail. Most were guy's that tried drilling them themselves rather then buy them that way. Times have changed as well as materials used. I have had Drilled/Slotted or a combination of the two on several of my trucks as well as several drag cars I had. Only problem I ever had was on one I drilled myself some 20 years ago. It was a cheap casting and when I combined aggressive RPM's and my attempt to save weight, they both meet and resulted in a massive rotor failure. Since then I only buy the best brake parts I can find, and leave the drilling to the experts.

EGR is the best in my opinion for the the 2500/3500 CTD, they make the most out of the stock braking system. Don't forget to install their lines, many cheap out on them and never get the most out of the new parts they installed, they are well worth the extra money.



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