2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake Bleeder Screws

[Flyboy]

This morning I decided it would be a good idea to change the brake fuild in my truck. When I went to loosen the brake bleeder screws I found them to be extremely tight. Though they didn't appear to be very rusty I soaked them for hours in penetrating oil. Using a tight fitting open end wrentch the only result was slipping around the corners of the nut. A good pair of vicegrips tighten as tight as I thought I dare tighten them resulted in only a slip as well. These must have been installed by the same factory Gonzilla that put on my original oil filter! Does anyone have a good solution to this problem? Thanks in advance!

 

[starring]

Seeing that you are changing your fluid you could try and heat up the housing and let it cool to try and get them to loosen up some. There may be some rust down on the threads or just some dirt in there.

 

[rweis]

6 point socket so the torque is even on all bleeder shoulders and maximum socket to bleeder shoulder contact might help.



Bob Weis

 

[Andy Redmond]

Heat if you have it (even a mapp, propane torch etc), tap on the "wrench" flat area with a brass drift lightly. Go easy or you'll be doing wheel cylinders/calipers.



Since you are already familiar with the vise grips, a little tighter and tap them with a wooden hammer handle for a "jar" You might also try a flare nut wrench and the visegrips simultaniously.



The bleeders are available in most auto parts stores. Also look at the "help" pop display (Dorman/Motormite company). Look for "speed bleeders" if the regular ones are not available. I normally have both, but I see more are on order. Even went to the dumpster to get you the proper sizes (old wheel cylinders), but the trash man has already beat me. .



Good luck

Andy

 

[I-6DZL]

Take a hammer and tap the top of the bleeder screw, it will flatten it out but who cares, it should come right out. Take the scew with you to an auto parts store and replace both. More than likely you wont get rear bleeder screws out, so plan on doing wheel cylinders. Upgradge to the 1 ton cylinders and be happy.



When you put the new bleeder screws in, put a pretty heavy coat of anti-seize around the threads. Works wonders for the next time.



Good Luck

Curtis

 

[Dartman]

I installed speed bleeders front & rear. Love 'em. Also got a bleed bag with a 3' section of hose from www.speedbleeder.com. Makes it a one-man bleed job. Also installed the larger rear wheel cylinders. Here's some PN's. Raybestos cylinder PN: 37337, Wagner cyliner PN: F79768, EIS cylinder PN: EW79768. I used the 37337 PN from Checker or Autozone.