2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission brake caliper frozen?

[Piersol]

I have a 1996 dodge that made a grinding noise while coming to a stop. I correctly inferred I needed new brake pads. Problem is the inside pad wore twice as fast as the outside pad. It was very difficult to get the caliper back in. I was able to do it with a 5 inch clamp using only human force but I'm guessing its still frozen. Before I started I was able to easily spin the wheel. I put it back together because I need to drive it tomorrow. If I can still move the caliper back in is there still probably something wrong with it? 110,000 miles on the truck so the caliper doesn't owe me anything. Sorry to post the ? here but I did not see the catagory for 2nd gen non engine and driveline catagory.



oops. now I see "no engine and driveline" catagory. Guess I was too flipped out when doing the brake job.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Ok you live in the rust belt. I'm betting the calipers are sticking and also the caliper slide pins need attention.





Likely when you compressed the caliper piston it may have damaged the seal and likely forced contaminants back into the brake sys. as well.



Anyhow a new caliper or a kit to reman yours is likely in order.



I think I'd do both calipers and "flush" my lines at each bleeder fitting to flush the old fluid and any contamination.



Also the caliper pins should be removed, degreased and relubed to assure they are working freely.



Watch the reman calipers There are "square" orings in the caliper bore that the caliper slides/pins ride on. Make sure they are present and in good condition.



Later models use a rubber grommet.



If not they are easily sources at any good parts store.



This can cause caliper release probs. like you are experiencing.

 

[San Felipe Bob]

ok

Yikes Front brakes

Ok here I go

This is my 1st hand experiance.

been thru my brakes alot!



1st the stock brakes get hot really hot especially with an Auto trans.

The truck takes alot of peddle to stop due to lack of engine braking.

once the brakes get everything good and hot they do a few thing's

1)they cook the caliper bolt grease doesn't matter what kind of grease I tried them all.

(the special clear Caliper grease seems to work best. )



2)this in turn causes the calipers to stick a little.



3)the sticky calipers cause the pads to drag (usually the the inside pad).



4) now that the pads are dragging we are really heating thing's up!



5)now were cookin !



6)this is where the rotors start to look like a Lays potato chip



7)at the same time we are cookin everything in the front end.

brake hoses and caliper piston dust boots and seals EVERYTHING!





Solutions



1)keep caliper bolts lubed (every oil change 3000 mi. or more often if you get them wet)



2) I purchased crossdrilled rotors (seems to keep the heat down)



3)Use hi quality pads (EGR brakes) Glenn thanks!

replace the rubber bushing's every time you change pads.

stay away from the Pep Boys lifetime stuff.



4)If you have already cooked your brakes consider replacing the Rotors ,Calipers (inc the caliper bolts) , Brake lines ,Pads , Brakefluid, You should turn the rotors if they are warped . This will reduce the pulsating brake peddle.



5) I'm very happy with the 1 ton rear wheel cyclinders.

My stockers were leaking and it was nearly imposible to tell.

I had to peel back the dust boots to inspect properly.

It was a very easy upgrade inexpensive too!





SFB





__________________

 

[Piersol]

minimum rotor thickness

Does anyone know what the minimum thickness is for the rotors on a 1996 2500 4x4. As long as I'm doing all this brake work I'd hate to find out the rotors need replaced after it is all done.

 

[radixr]

Rotor thickness

Jim,



The gospel according to the shop manual: "Rotor minimum thickness is usually specified on the rotor hub. The specification is either stamped or cast into the hub surface. "

 

[Piersol]

new caliper is in

Well, new caliper is in tonight. Went pretty easy, however, I could not find torque specs for the brake line fitting or the bleeder screw. I don't want to strip it out but I don't want it coming loose either. Any help? Also, how do I get my sig to appear at the bottom of my post? I checked the box at the bottom but nothing appears.

 

[sam peterson]

Piersol---Lots of things in the system don't have torgue specs---Just remember to use a comparible size wrench for the fitting you are tightening. Bolts that don't have stress on them just need to be snugged up by hand.