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Brake capliers 2004 3500

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2007.5 (6.7) Locking the doors with the engine running.

Steering shaft is wore out

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I went with Raybestos from Rockauto.com. I chose the calipers that came with mounting brackets sense mine were very worn after 300,000+ miles. Dot 3 fluid works fine for me. Dot 4 if you tow in mountainous terrain is probably better sense it stands higher temps. I've never gotten my brakes that hot.
 
High end Cardone A1 is what I used, no problems yet after +50k. Same on the brake, Dot 3 if you use it normally, Dot 4 if you have excessive hard braking needs. Would advise a brake fluid flush at the same time you change calipers.
 
To start out with, good DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids in general are cheap. The price difference is not that much.

Prestone 12 oz. DOT 3, $3.99 at AutoZone.
Prestone 12 oz. DOT 4, $3.87 at Walmart; $4.99 at Autozone.

You don't have to go crazy and use some uber-expensive fluid. It really makes sense to just go with a quality DOT 4 fluid and be done with it, you don't need that much. (Some fluids are actually labeled DOT 3 & 4).

Valvoline 32 oz. DOT 3 & 4, $6.97 at Walmart; $7.99 at Autozone.

In my cars, I used to alternate between ATE Super Blue Racing DOT 4 and regular DOT 4; that way I could visually tell when one fluid had been completely replaced. Unfortunately, it seems that because of the blue dye, the blue fluid is no longer readily available (http://www.ate-na.com/www/download/...ke_fluid/download/safety_recall_notice_en.pdf). I'm going to have to figure something else out.

Don't forget when you are replacing the fluid to have the ABS activated to bleed that fluid as well. Requires a DRB-III or a big patch of ice.
 
If you going to change your calipers please buy a quart of brake fluid... and bleed all 4 wheels and flush out the dirty fluid... I personally would rebuild them.... its a very simple task and the kit is a few dollars.. best of luck
 
If you going to change your calipers please buy a quart of brake fluid... and bleed all 4 wheels and flush out the dirty fluid... I personally would rebuild them.... its a very simple task and the kit is a few dollars.. best of luck


I've never had good luck rebuilding them myself. Here in the heart of the salt belt the pitting and lack of material to refinish make the repair more of a band aid.
 
X3 in Maine. Only good for a doorstop after 3 years or so in the caustic ooze (Weasel Snot).......

Wife's Town & Country will only go 2 years on LF and LR calipers. A result of those two wheel positions always being in the road chemicals. Right hand side will go twice as long as the left.
 
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I dabble with 2006-2012 F550's that are salt trucks. I see lots of salt damage. I change calipers, which are dual piston very similar to ours constantly. I have been getting various brands of rebuilts, and astonishingly the best come from Centric. Right down to the quality of the copper washers for the line connection, I am very impressed with Centric. I have also found that the "brake lube" that comes with some kits is very similar to dielectric grease, and I've been using that with some success.
At home, unless I'm going to do a job like changing all 4 calipers, I buy the little pints. They stay sealed and fresh until I need them. I also bought a brake fluid tester- works real good. It looks like a pen light and takes AAA batts. One end has 2 metal prongs and LED's on the other. Just dip the prongs and see the moisture content.
 
While in business I sold Centric... most if not all of their units today are NEW not re manufactured... The key with rebuilding your own caliper is understanding when the piston is bad and needs to be replaced and when it can be reused... I'm also in a place in the winter where their a lot chemicals on the road... Each of us needs to do what's comfortable... on the trucks that I owned we re manufactured them... but I've always been an advocate of bleeding the system every couple of years to keep fresh fluid in the system so that there is less of a chance of problems...
 
The best calipers you will ever have are the oriiginal ones that came on your truck. Much of the remanufactured stuff is junk IMO and will never last as long as the first original ones did. Rebuilding your originals with quality parts is the best way long term
 
No I do not, but the standards they are built to are higher than the reman stuff (at least that I have worked with). The originals life span has always exceeded the reman life span. I would have to say the quality control on remans is severely lacking. If you don't deal with road chemicals you would not see such a big difference .
 
Thanks for the heads up on the tester Wayne - I just ordered one.

Scott

It's my pleasure :)

I just did another pair over the weekend. One side cardone. The other centric. I don't buy them so don't ask. But the centric was just a better piece. Almost seems like a fresher casting so I believe the new statement. And. The centric comes with a new banjo bolt. I also believe in rebuilding your own in certain circumstances- even having them sleeved for classic cars etc, but most if the time we just need to get back up in action. Fluid maintenance is paramount.
 
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