Brake Controller Differences

[Nalexakis]

Weak trailer brakes or need a stronger controller? I've never been able to lockup (or even come close, except on sand/gravel) my RV trailer brakes. I've had two different RV (6K and 13K lb. )and two different brake controllers (Tekonsha 2030 and Voyager). Wired a dedicated #8 ga line to truck's trailer plug, monitored the brake current (max at 9 -10 Amps with all 4 magnets working). Does having a 3 to 4 axel brake controller offer more current to the brake magnets than a 1 to 2 axel? Anyone else experience this? Is this braking action just normal?

 

[klenger]

It sounds to me liek the trailer brakes need adjustment. 8 - 10 amps should lock up the brakes IMHO. You could connect the brakes to 12 volt battery power and measure the current and see if it's any higher than with the controller. You wouldn't need to drive the rig to test this, just measure it standing still.

 

[Nalexakis]

The trailer brakes have been adjusted and still cannot lockup or get any what I think should be serious braking. Connecting direct to the batteries and measuring the magnet current sounds like a good test. My ammeter is dash mounted, so I'll have to get another one to make the test easier. More info: Strange, both trailers exhibited the same problem. I transferred my first Voyager controller from my Chevy Caprice to my Dodge (same trailer) and had the same result. Then I bought a new Voyager controller- no improvement. Then I got my Alpenlite fifth wheel and have the same result. Seems like everything has changed, but the braking power.

 

[Paul Somers]

Pull your drums off and examine your magnets and shoes. My 1999 5th wheel did same thing. Kept checking adjustment and very little brakes. Pulled drums and shoes and magnets were coated with grease. I have Dexter ez-lub axels and delivery person must have shot them so full of grease it blew past back seal. I know, I should have replaced shoes but was heading out next morning and couldn't wait for parts. I cleaned magnets and shoes with a good solvent and there is no problem stopping any more. Stop so good don't think I'll bother replacing any time soon. Gain was wide open, now I have it a little over half way. Why didn't I take it to dealer you ask; 260 miles round trip and I feel I'm better than anything I've seen at dealer.

 

[HBarlow]

Poor Trailer Brakes

One of several limitations of the Tekonsha brake controller, in my opinion, is that the gain adjustment knob on the right side of the controller also controls manual override trailer braking. The driver is unable to manually apply maximum trailer braking using the slider on the controller if the gain control knob is in any position other than full clockwise. It would seem to me that a preferred design would allow the gain control knob to regulate trailer braking when the truck's service brake is applied, but allow the driver to apply maximum trailer braking with the manual override slider lever.

 

[C Schomer]

Has anyone tried the Prodigy yet? Tekonsha told me they're getting good feedback on it so far. Craig

 

[Nalexakis]

Harvey,

Your assessment of the manual gain is good. I have my gain set at MAXIMUM all the time while traveling down the highway.



I talked to Tekonsha and Dexter Axel. Tekonsha said no brake lock up at 20-30 mph could be insufficient wiring size. A Dexter engineer said no lock up except at slow speeds is normal. The engineer reported that a new, more aggressive, brake shoe is available for the 6,000 # axel. The cost for the complete backing plate and brake assembly is about $100 per wheel.



The traler braking action now is anything but aggressive. You realize the brakes are working, but seems like only 50% stopping power. My exhaust brake helps A LOT.

 

[WCrovo]

I agree with the no lock up at higher speeds. only going slow. My drawtite activator II has performed flawlessly for over 100,000 towing miles. You should always do a full check of mech. parts of brakes as well.

 

[WCrovo]

One more thing. Those guys Tekonsha are CRACK BABIES if they're thinking about locking your trailer brakes at that speed. Locking your brakes dose not mean faster stops.

 

[Turbo Thom]

One thing to remember is on electric trailer brakes the magnet that is activated in the hub uses the hub as the stopping/grabber point for the magnet. That must be clean of grease and rust, or no brakes. I have a Tekonsha on mine and tow a 13k trailer and have it set like they say and have good stopping. I don't want the brakes to lock on mine as it is very unconfortable in the cab.

Check the mag. to hub rub.

Preston

 

[SteveH]

I went with one of the new electronic control units this year and love it. No moving parts, no pendulum to get screwed up, works in any position and cannot get out of whatever adjustment you put on it. You can make it give you 100% of available amperage and you can even tell it to ramp the power instead of giving it all at once. For instance, you can make it take 1/2 second to reach full power instead of hitting full power all at once. They are the only way to go.

 

[Nalexakis]

What brand and model? Do these electronic controllers pulse the brake magnets? Anyone else use one of these units and prefer it over the pendulum?

 

[SteveH]

I know about a half dozen people who use these now. Most did what I did after they saw what all the unit does, they took off a perfectly good pendulum unit and installed one of the ones with no moving parts to be re-set every year.

It is a Draw Tite Activator II. I can set my ramp to take even 2-3 seconds to send 100% power to the brakes or to send 25 % power to the brakes. I can make this a shorter 1/4 second to send any percentage of power to the brakes that I choose. They never need adjustment for movement like the pendulums did. 100% digital, no moving parts. They are the best I've ever used, and I've used everything from the old line off the master cylinder, split to the brake unit, and going to the rear of the trailer, all the way up to the new digital unit. You'll love the digital.