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Brake Controller installation

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I am preparing to install a Tekonsha brake controller. The truck is set up with the class 3 hitch and wiring. My questions are: Where do I plug into the wiring harness and should I have recieved a pigtail with the truck?



Thanks :confused:
 
"Pigtail" should be in the glove compartment. It wires up to the controller (WARNING - pay attention to the wire descriptions, not the colors - they do NOT match). The plug end connects under the dash and to the left of the steering column. It sits on top of a larger black pastic housing.
 
Brake Controller install

Be careful hooking up the wires and working with trailer wiring with it hooked to the Dodge. I was trying to rewire my car hauler and apparently shorted a wire, it immediately blew a fuse, thanks to a savvy Service Mgr at a 5-Star dealer in Cape Girardeau, MO. I was back in business quick. He said this fuse goes easy, and to carry a spare. I bought two, the spare fits a blank slot next to the live one. :)
 
The only thing I would add to the above reply's is that generally the color code follow a standard at the truck to trailer connectors.



EXCEPT the black and blue wires these can be 12V battery positive (For 12V supply to trailer or Brakes) or trailer controller to trailer brakes . Get these crossed and you will either have no brakes or be Smoking/skidding the tires or Brakes down the road. Easier than you think with a CTD. :D
 
I just wired my Tekonsha Prodigy. As TXRam said, I found my pigtail in the glove box, along with a 7- to 4-pin adapter. You should have received this with the truck.



I will repeat what others have said; the colors DO NOT match. If you look at the Tekonsha documentation long enough, it will make sense. The factory plug has labels on the wires that help a lot.



The plug attaches just above the large connector that's under the dash to the left of the steering wheel. I guessed at the length, spliced it together so that the connectors were staggered, and ran some loom over the whole affair.



I removed the ash tray on mine, and attached the controller to the ashtray housing using some 3/4" standoffs. I have yet to make a cover plate to fill in the area above the brake controller, just to tidy it up a bit.



Depending on the model, Tekonsha makes pre-made wiring harnesses for your truck. I just didn't want to wait.



Ethdee
 
FWIW, I'd solder and shrink tube the staggered splices if you can.



I mounted my Sentinel directly in front of the go pedal, so I can reach down with my right hand and adjust or manually apply the trailer brakes. Seems like I used one factory screw and drilled for the other.
 
Dog Hauler; When I installed mine I called Tekonsha for technical tips. They advised that some vehicles may have poor ground systems. They advised me to run a direct ground (negative) wire to the battery terminal so my system would have a good negative circuit. Doesn't cost much or take much labor.
 
Originally posted by OILBRNR

FWIW, I'd solder and shrink tube the staggered splices if you can.



I mounted my Sentinel directly in front of the go pedal, so I can reach down with my right hand and adjust or manually apply the trailer brakes. Seems like I used one factory screw and drilled for the other.



I agree with OILBURNER, Because brake controllers and elec Brakes are Amperage Hogs - it is very important for good connections. WE ARE talking about BRAKES. It does not matter how strong your truck is if you can not stop fast You or someone is DEAD!. With the power of the CTD you can pull 300%+ more than we can safetly stop!!!





Sorry for the strong language but people just don't take it serious enough. The most common remark I hear is " I give my self more room/time to stop". I know from experiance it is never the expected or planned stop that is the problem. It is the unexpected :eek:- Like someone else having a accident in front of you, A ball rolling out from behind a van on "The Quiet, Calm Street", The kid who is watching his friend not were he is going. In seconds someone is hurt or worse. It can effect of peoples lifes. :(



Take your time and get it right. If you cannot solder the connections it is better to use twist style nuts and then tape to keep them tight than most of the LOW quality crimp and scotchlock connectors that you get at the AutoZone store. If you can find high quality Crimp connectors (Napa?)and after using Good crimping pliers then try to pull the connection apart with considerable force. If it is a satisfactory connection you will not be able to pull it apart.



Back to a lighter note: The Sentinel that OILBURNER is refering to is one of the BEST made. I have sold and installed Dozens of different styles and brands and the Sentinel is the only one that I use in my families vehicles.



Again sorry for the lecture :eek:
 
Originally posted by KWIKKURT



...

Take your time and get it right. If you cannot solder the connections it is better to use twist style nuts and then tape to keep them tight than most of the LOW quality crimp and scotchlock connectors that you get at the AutoZone store...



I use Scotchlok, T&B Sta-Kon, and AMP connectors and wire terminals, and find them to be high-quality.



I think your excellent point bears repeating: "If you can find high quality Crimp connectors (Napa?) and after using Good crimping pliers then try to pull the connection apart with considerable force. If it is a satisfactory connection you will not be able to pull it apart. " Words to live by.



I use T&B pliers, and they are the second best crimpers I've used - the best being some very expensive AMP pliers made for a specific connector and wire size, and built so that they could not be released until fully crimped.



Ethdee
 
ETHDEE,



AMP Products are great quality. That is what we used rebuilding F-86 Fighter jets and C-123 Transports for some Gov contracts we had at the FBO I used to work at. They pass AN- Spec. And the crimp pliers are TOP NOTCH.
 
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