Brake Controllers

[Mark31]

Hensley Arrow web site lists a Trucontrol brake controller. Is this the same type as Brakesmart and Maxbrake? Mark

 

[morbius]

Hensley Arrow web site lists a Trucontrol brake controller. Is this the same type as Brakesmart and Maxbrake? Mark

No, its completely different. I looked at it and said no way, went with BrakeSmart. Between the two (maxbrake and brakesmart), brakesmart is the best. Also allows for a great deal of flexibility when installing. You can blend it in the your truck and make it built into the dash. Maxbrake cannot, its very limited in where you can install it. -Roberto

 

[DennyDay]

No, its completely different. I looked at it and said no way, went with BrakeSmart. Between the two (maxbrake and brakesmart), brakesmart is the best. Also allows for a great deal of flexibility when installing. You can blend it in the your truck and make it built into the dash. Maxbrake cannot, its very limited in where you can install it. -Roberto

morbius is correct, I currently have the trucontrol, it is good compared to any of the Tekonsha electronic controlers, but it is not as good as either the Brake Smart or Max. The Brake Smart hit the national market the week I got the Trucontrol on a deal with a hitch from Hensley, so I'm stuck with it for a while. (I hate it when that happens!)



Denny:{

 

[HBarlow]

The key element in the BrakeSmart and MaxBrake is a tiny transducer (pressure sensor) installed in one of the hydraulic brake lines off the truck master cylinder. The transducer senses hydraulic pressure and produces a tiny electrical signal, proportional to the hydraulic pressure it feels. That electrical signal is routed through a small wiring harness to the brake controller where electronic circuits convert the microvolt electric signal to a higher dc voltage that varies in response to the pressure you put on the brake pedal. The harder you press, the greater the voltage output and harder the trailer brakes. BrakeSmart and MaxBrake are the only brake controllers available that provide precisely modulated, proportional braking.

Many who have never towed with one believe that their brand x is just as good. They are simply unaware and unknowing.

Once you tow with a BrakeSmart or MaxBrake you will be a believer as I am. The heavier the trailer, the better they work and the more safety they provide.

 

[5ducksinadodge]

New Maxbrake on the way, where to install it

I will receive my Maxbrake controller tomorrow, and I am trying to figure out where to install it. My last Brakesmart went on the drop down panel under to steering column, and I guess this will have to go there too. My 2004. 5 panel was hinged and if you grabbed it at the top, it swings down allowing complete access to the under dash. I don't think my 2009 will do the same drop down, so can anyone tell me how to get the panel off? Looks like two screws at the bottom, but not sure on this. Have to get this installed before Sunday as I have to go back to work and leave next Friday on vacation. So, where did you folks with the Maxbrake install yours and what problems did you have? Please post here, email or pm me if you can help. Thanks for the help...

 

[Grizzly]

I totally agree on BrakeSmart. I've had other brands, which tended to jerk my 5er when applying brakes. I could never get a good adjustment to stop the jerking The BrakeSmart has been absolutely flawless from day one.

 

[HBarlow]

I assume but don't know the '09 is probably identical to the '08 and earlier Dodges. Remove the two screws on each side of the knee panel, pull out and away from the dash. There is a "push-in" latch at each top corner of the panel that holds the top in place. It should easily pull out and away from the dash.

 

[5ducksinadodge]

Thanks for the help on the panel removal. Kinda what I thought, but wasn't sure. Get to tackle that this afternoon. Thanks Gary

 

[morbius]

I will receive my Maxbrake controller tomorrow, and I am trying to figure out where to install it. My last Brakesmart went on the drop down panel under to steering column, and I guess this will have to go there too. My 2004. 5 panel was hinged and if you grabbed it at the top, it swings down allowing complete access to the under dash. I don't think my 2009 will do the same drop down, so can anyone tell me how to get the panel off? Looks like two screws at the bottom, but not sure on this. Have to get this installed before Sunday as I have to go back to work and leave next Friday on vacation. So, where did you folks with the Maxbrake install yours and what problems did you have? Please post here, email or pm me if you can help. Thanks for the help...

If you install it there, be careful ! I cut my leg up from the dumb design of the manual brake slide while not paying attention. My only complaint with MaxBrake is the poor design of that slide lever, it should have been a slide that you depress like on the brakesmart unit. Also do not use the supplied mounting bracket for the unit. Use 3M automotive double stick tape, it will hold the unit like glue without the need to drill holes and ruin the panel, yet still removable with a little care.

 

[5ducksinadodge]

Morbius, thanks for the idea on the 3m tape. I really did not want to drill any holes in the panel and ruin it for life. I did receive my unit today, and saw the slider that you mentioned, and like you think they should use a push button like the brakesmart. It looks pretty nice and just hope it does the job that I purchased it for and I think the install will go very quickly. At least with the tape, you have some other mounting location options. Thanks again for the help... gary

 

[morbius]

Gary, most welcome and glad I could help someone out. If it helps, I will post some pics of my install. Was really easy took very little time.

Cheers,
Roberto

 

[5ducksinadodge]

Finally got the Maxbrake installed and the hardest part was getting the cable through the firewall. I removed the hard plastic cover that had the large bolts and nuts inside and drilled that out large enough to get the cable in. I plan to use a rubber butyl product to seal the hole around the cable. Now if I can just get this used Trailersaver hitch to lock around the pin on my trailer. I sprayed the heck out of it with white lithium grease, but it may have to go back to the place I bought it and get a non-air ride hitch. We will see. . gp

 

[morbius]

Gary,

Your Trailersaver and my Hitchcrafter use the same head unit. First of all, are you using one of those non lube teflon disk on your 5th wheel ? There is a catch to make the Binkley head lock correctly automatically. When you pull the release pin and slide the lock lever back all the way, the pin should engage again. Pull the release pin so the level goes into auto-lock mode. When backing up to the kingpin, do not be very gentle, it take a good bump to make it lock automatically and secure, you will hear it when its done correctly, takes a little practice and patience. Once locked, you should not be able to move the lever at all. They are tight fit, but a very good and secure one !!

If you are still having problems, call the Trailersaver folks, they are great team of people and will help resolve it asap.

Hope that helps. Cheers, Roberto

 

[5ducksinadodge]

Gary,

Your Trailersaver and my Hitchcrafter use the same head unit. First of all, are you using one of those non lube teflon disk on your 5th wheel ? There is a catch to make the Binkley head lock correctly automatically. When you pull the release pin and slide the lock lever back all the way, the pin should engage again. Pull the release pin so the level goes into auto-lock mode. When backing up to the kingpin, do not be very gentle, it take a good bump to make it lock automatically and secure, you will hear it when its done correctly, takes a little practice and patience. Once locked, you should not be able to move the lever at all. They are tight fit, but a very good and secure one !!

If you are still having problems, call the Trailersaver folks, they are great team of people and will help resolve it asap.

Hope that helps. Cheers, Roberto

The problem seems to be that the previous owner did not take very good care of it. He left it setting in the bed uncovered and open to the elements. I did hold the trailer brakes and bumped it very firm, and it locked up enough for me to pull it forward about a foot. I never saw the lever go to what they describe as the 8 o'clock positon which would indicate that its locked and ready for travel. I could not tell by the instructions on the trailersaver website whether the pin is self-locking once its in the 8 o'clock position. I guess that I need to remove the head, clean it and lubricate and reinstall to make sure it operates correctly. I noticed that while hooked up yesterday there's enough for a lube disk and thats on my list today for purchase. Thanks for all of the help. . gary

 

[morbius]

Reason for asking about the disk is that I have seen some that where too thick causing the collars not to line up with the jaws. Yup, if left out uncovered, you will have to take it apart, clean it and I would purchase a new spring kit and all will be good as new. Those heads are very tough and really the only thing that goes bad over time is the springs. I would use anti-siege lube on the pivot posts vs grease. Do you have single pivot or double pivot head ? -Roberto

 

[5ducksinadodge]

It has the double pivot head on it. I think that you are correct about taking it apart and cleaning it to get it working smooth. I looked at their website and they said to use wd-40 on the bolts that the jaws pivot on . I did that and they seem to work smoother and will tell this friday when I try to hook up. thanks for all the help... gary

 

[HBarlow]

I've always used white lithium grease in a can with a spray nozzle to lube my Reese 20k hitch. It's over six years old, has pulled many fifth wheels many thousands of miles and looks a little faded and rusty in places. I turn it upside down once in a while and spray lithium grease on all the moving parts which frees it up. Still works as good as when it was shiny new. Most fiver hitches seem to be almost bullet proof.

 

[5ducksinadodge]

I finally got all of the parts moving and now works like a dream. I will plan on in the future using the white lithium grease as everyone says that the wd-40 will draw moisture. Don't know just how true that is, but the grease seems like it would stay in place a little longer. Thanks for the help. . g

 

[Bob Cochran]

I finally got all of the parts moving and now works like a dream. I will plan on in the future using the white lithium grease as everyone says that the wd-40 will draw moisture. Don't know just how true that is, but the grease seems like it would stay in place a little longer. Thanks for the help. . g

I am not sure about the attracting of water by WD-40. In days of yore I had a FORD and the distributor would get wet inside during driving rain etc. Used to spray WD-40 all over inside the distributor because it displaced moister. Not sure haw it can do both even though WD-40 is a miracle product

 

[seafish]

WD-40 displaces moisture, doesn't attract it, but grease will definitely stay in place longer.