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Brake Drum Removal

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vw tdi question about oil

RWAL Fitting

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I've used the search function, and googled the internet looking for PICTURES on how to service my brakes on my 93 Dodge 4x4 automatic. It's a single wheel, not dually, Dana 70. I'm ok with doing "normal" brakes, but this thing is quite different. I know I have a leaky wheel cylinder - the drum is soaked on the outside and there's a wet streak on the inside of the tire. I'm ok with getting the axle out, and I think I have the right size socket now for the nut (2 9/16"). I purchased a Chilton manual but it only has text on what to do... no pics :(

Is there a website that outlines this with pics? I can't even get a blow up diagram of the order stuff goes on. I also can't find any of the torque specs for the center hub bolts nor the central bearing nut, though they might be in the manual somewhere. I see I need to bend the tang back on the toothed washer behind the nut, but what's the deal with the "key" (looks to work like a woodruf key almost) that needs to be removed before the nut can come off? All this stuff looks relatively new on this truck. There was a package in the cab when I bought it that contained a seal (I'm assuming it's the one that was taken off), and an empty bubble pack that once held an axle nut. The owner wrote on there, "Right Rear Wheel Nut), which is the wheel I'm having trouble with. My hunch is that there's a faulty wheel cylinder in there, or perhaps something wasn't put back properly. There was also a drum brake hardware kit in there. Perhaps the PO was planning to do this job, but whatever the case, I've taken all the steps I can think of to get information on how to do this job but I'm still in need of help. Any pointers would be good. I'm not interested in doing the upgrade right now to 3" brakes (perhaps it's already been done, I don't know)... I just need to use the truck! I've actually been quite impressed and pleased with the braking up until now. .

Thanks for any help you can provide. I JUST got my first issue of the magazine, and I can't wait to get my dirty, greasy, brake-fluidy hands on it!



Todd K.
 
Just take it apart. There is nothing in there that will scare you. Bend back the tang on the washer and take off the outer nut, then remove the washer and inner nut. It's just nuts and bolts. I'm sure paychk will come through with the pages, but you can get started for sure.

Travis. .
 
The key looking thing is pried out with a flat blade screwdriver.



The bearing adjustment nut is as follows:



1) tighten nut to 120-140 ft. lbs. while rotating wheel (I guess at this point they want the wheel installed)



2) Back off nut 1/3 turn (or two nut flats) to obtain . 001" - . 008" end play



3) tap in nut lock into spindle keyway (sheetmetal u shape thing, it digs into the nylon on the spindle nut)



Axle shaft flange bolts torque to 55 - 90 ft. lbs.
 
Piece of cake getting everything apart. My brake drums and linings all looked ok so I'm putting it back as is. However, the job keeps getting bigger and bigger. The line was so rusty going into the cylinder that it broke with little pressure, even though the fitting wasn't tight at all and came right out. So, I figured I'd just have to replace the line between the wheel cylinder and the rear brake hose... WRONG... the hose connection is toast... new rear hose is $50, should be here tomorrow. Additionally, the OTHER rear brake line is toast as well, so I was up to 2 brake line replacements and a rear brake hose. Then, I noticed that the other end of the brake hose was so rusty it wouldn't break loose from the line coming from what appears to be an antilock brake valve. To top things off, the line coming out of the antilock valve going to the rear brake hose is rotted as well, and someone has cheated and put a compression fitting in the middle of the line to circumvent the problem! BAD Idea!!!

My remaining problem at the moment is that the line coming out of the antilock valve is broken off in the brass fitting that goes into the valve, and it looks to be a special part :{ . It's brass and has an O-ring and acts as an adapter from from the antilock valve to standard brake line. Is this fitting available from a parts store? It has a machined region above the O-ring, then a 5/8" hex head into which the brake line goes. If I can get this last piece, I'll have light at the end of the tunnel. I could probably bypass the antilock brakes, but I'd really rather not. Might as well put it back right. If they're unavailable, does anyone have an extra they'd be willing to sell? I think the valve is fine, I just need this one fitting and I'll be back on the road soon!

Thanks

Todd K.
 
Well, I bit the bullet today and bought everything I need to complete my brakes. Either my truck came with 3" brakes or someone has installed them. The parts guy and I had a heck of a time figuring out brakes, drums, seals, etc. I had to order new drums ($50 each) and also new cylinders (1 1/8"). My drums have 8892 stamped on them. Everything is pretty straight forward, except for finding a special RWAL valve fitting, which I decided to start another thread on. I've exhausted nearly all my resources on this one, hoping someone can send me in the right direction.

Thanks

Todd K.
 
Hi Todd, just caught the thread now that you are done. :rolleyes: I was just in mine a couple of months ago replacing emerg. brake cables. My 92, W350, Auto, Single rear wheel also has 3" brakes. Looks stock to me. Good Luck on the RWAL fitting.
 
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