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Brake frustrations

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Hanging Air Filter Directly Off Turbo

Just Got A 1st Gen With 50 Miles On It

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I have brake problem still. I'm at a loss as to what is next/again. I have replaced one vacuum pump ($300 dealer only) about 2 yrs ago that appears to be leaking again. I have replaced the master cylinder (twice) recently. I have just done rotors, calipers, and pads (all new) one month ago. I converted the rear to 3" brakes this past weekend with drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, adjuster kit, and spring kit (all new). I now have what appears to be a fading brake pedal when I'm in traffic. It doesn't appear to come up when pumping but will when I step on it after I drive a while. Any ideas? I have yet to replace the vacuum booster and ABS valve. I can't believe how much I've spent on this area and still have yet to fix all the problems. I won't get into my steering problems right now.



Any ideas/advice would be appreciated.
 
Sorry to hear about the brakes. That seems like the only items left to check other than bleeding the system again.



As for the steering problems, I've been there. The 89 had balljoints, and balljoints and balljoints... . Then all the linkage and next is the coupling from the box to the wheel. The 93 needs a centre link, now that I have done the... yup balljoints. :rolleyes:



Good luck on the brakes. If you need the parts breakdown for all the front end from MOOG, search on posts by Shrimpy. He was nice enough to post all the part #'s for the front end.
 
It sounds like to me that it is a bad master cylinder (again). I was wondering if anyone agrees with this assessment or has any other ideas.
 
Matt, the only other thing that you haven't coverd (at least in your above post) is the vacum line from the power steering pump area (vacum pump). This is a sort of a long shot, but a buddie of mine with a 96 one ton was having brake fade problems. It was only in traffic, with a high ambient temp. 95 degrees plus. What he found was that the vacum hose from the vac. pump to the booster was collapsing. The material was breaking down and the hose lost it's stiffness. With the high outside temp. and the engine compartment heat the hose would collapse. It like to drove him crazy finding it, but after a change out, viola, no more brake problems. I am in the Houston Tex. area and it routinely gets 98 plus along with 95% humidity. Hope this helps.





My brake problems went away with a rear brake R&R. Don't even want to discuss steering issues. My front end is great but boy do I need a Borgensen (sp) shaft!!!!!!!!
 
On my '92 I had problems durning the winter with serious brake fade. Come to find out the vacuum line between the pump and the booster was kinked and collapsing. I rerouted it and it works fine. I am going to replace it before this winter though. I am also seriously going to consider changing the vaccuum booster. Hope this helps.
 
Don't know if it is like the fords I work on but problem sound the same I found that abs sucks to begin with and the valve will do that fadding thing when older just sitting there just like a bad master cylinder.

I just go to the parts store and get about $5 worth of fittings pull the in and out line from the abs valve and bypass the abs valve

Sean
 
Update

I notice that when the brake pedal fades, it is sluggish to come back to the top. It doesn't come up with pumping the pedal. I'm going go after the vacuum parts. Anyone else have a problem with the pumps going bad? This will be my second one in 60,000 miles.
 
Add this to your "Who would have thought to look there" file.

I had basically the same problem, got to the changing out the vacuum pump part and when I grabbed the line coming out of the pump to the brake booster it crumbled in my hand. Seems that spray engine cleaners will attack the plastic T-fitting and some types of rubber hose. A closer look revealed all kinds of itty-bitty holes in the plastic. Any one of which could constitute a leak.

Hope this helps, Jones
 
Originally posted by Matt S

It sounds like to me that it is a bad master cylinder (again). I was wondering if anyone agrees with this assessment or has any other ideas.



Pull the cover off the master cylinder and look under the hood gap as you apply the brake. If you see a fountain of fluid come up out of the reservoir, you have a bad master cylinder. My experience with rebuilt ones has been such that I will pay the difference and get a new one. Most parts stores will stock them.
 
guess what i am currently haveing the same problem with my truck, i have thought the booster on my truck has been bad for a while because i get a hard pedal if i push it more than once to soon b4 the vacuum builds but i have just delt with it for a while until recently i had the same problem as you i would sit at a light and with my foot on the brake applying the same pressure to the pedal my pedal slowly goes toward the floor, so i replaced the master cyclinder and power booster, my hard pedal problem has gone away but i still have the same problem with the pedal slowly going to the floor at a light. so what other things should i look for any help would be appreciated
 
Plan of action

I'm going to replace the vacuum pump that is leaking oil (again) and replace all the vacuum hoses. Does anyone have any idea where to get a vacuum pump without going through the Dodge dealer?
 
I lost a booster on my '75 F250 4x4 some years ago. When you would apply the brakes, you would hear a loud vaccum leak from under the dash. Even the noise of a diesel would not have drowned that out.
 
I had the same problem with my 91. All the experts said it is the master cylinder. Well, the experts can insert it with wallnuts. I took my ABS valve off and made a spacer to replace the spring in the accumilater and VIOLA! great brakes.
 
I replaced the master cylinder three times on my Park Avenue before I stopped buying rebuilt and put on a new one. Problem solved.
 
Got the part

I finally got the part from NAPA. I plan to put it in this weekend. I'll post an update and the part number. The vacuum pump was 1/2 the price of the Dodge dealer and with a warranty.
 
I got so tried of the brakes on my 93 I bought a new 2001. 5. I think the ASB valve may be the answer. I would bomb my brakes on a rainy day to make it activate (you can feel it pulse), and brakes would seem pretty good for a while, then pedal sink would again start happening in a few weeks.



Took it to the dealer and they said brakes were fine. THEY never towed a trailer in rush hour traffic!!!!!!!!!



2001. 5 has 4 wheel disc, and I feel alot better towing the trailer. Good luck guys. I have to say the 93 had heavier body metal!!!



Snow King :p
 
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