2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake issue's!!!

[Beach]

What's the deal with these truck's and the crappy brake's! I replaced all my caliper's,pad's and rotor's over the past year and a half and I keep burning up my front brake's. I've cleaned my caliper's and anti-siezed the crap out of them so they move freely and now my right side pad's are shot... . again!! I just put pad's on early summer. I checked my pad's before a road trip this past weekend and the driver side is still pretty thick, but the passenger side was down to 1/4 inch or less. So I leave work today and come to the first stop and all I feel is grinding... already. What is going on?! I was told to change my front brake line's. Could that be my problem? I'm ready to park this thing on the railroad track's! Thank's for any idea's!!

 

[GAmes]

Brake lines is my suggestion. Worked on my other pick-up after replacing the master cyl, proportioning valve, and calipers. pull themoff and check them, I'll bet the passenger side is blocked.

 

[SRath]

The brake hose was a problem on a GMC I owned briefly, too. The Dodge hoses do some pretty severe contortions. I could see where that would do it. My bet is on what GAmes said.



Is it worth it to look into a pair of braided stainless lines like from earls?

 

[San Felipe Bob]

dual or single?

Do you have single or dual piston calipers?



Check for dragging Calipers by lifting the tire off the ground and giving them a spin.

They should spin freely.

Check this vid out.

YouTube - Dodge caliper test



SFB

 

[Shelby Griggs]

I have an 01. 5 with 4 wheel disk brakes and at 190K still have the OEM brakes, I do have a 6 speed and an E-brake and that helps. It seems the earlier trucks with rear drums PLUS an auto transmission eat brakes much faster, sorry for your pain, BUT I wouldn't say my truck has crappy brakes at all.



SHG

 

[CumminsPower98]

I would agree with the others. If only one side is wearing you have a sticking caliper or bad brake hose. These trucks may not have the best brakes but I have sure been happy with mine. At 390k miles I'm still on the original rears (hight sensing valve tied open) and my current front pads have 267k on them and have lots of life left. They don't drag at all unlike all the 80s Fords I have worked on. Yes I have a manual and e-brake and 265k of those miles are OTR 115k of which was towing.

 

[Beach]

I put a set of cheap pad's on tonight to get me buy until I find some steel braided line's. When I pulled the caliper off, the inside of the rotar was all chewed up and no pad left on the inside pad. I have 4 wheel disk brakes with dual piston caliper's. They dont' seem to be hanging up except when appling the brake's it pull's to the right. Where is the proportioning valve and how do you check that it's functioning correctly? The only reason I said these truck's must have crappy brake's is that I have heard friend's and other people complain about them also. I guess I need new rotar's again now to. Thank's again guy's for the suggestion's. Any recommendation's on the line's?

 

[CumminsPower98]

I recently worked on a brake pull problem on a '91 F350. It wasn't real obvious that the right wheel was dragging more than the left yet it would pull pretty bad to the right when braking hard. I replaced the caliper and it was fixed.



When I said I was happy with my brakes I was mainly referring to how well they have lasted me and how I have never had problems with dragging. I'm sure they could work better for actual stopping power.

 

[GAmes]

Try NAPA or the other parts stores. If all else fails, go to Dodge. I'm still running my OEM lines on my Dodge. When the lines fail it is the internal layer that causes the blockage while the outer layer stays intact, thus no leakage. I don't think steel braided would last any longer unless you spend a lot of time off road. The internal layer would still be rubber.



The new proportioning valve was very expensive, but the old one was 25 years old and covered in rust, plus both my front brakes were dragging, one side was worse than the other. I have talked myself into believing that I needed to replace it anyway

 

[CCahill]

Beach,
I have to agree with you... look at where some of the other members live... I live in the Sierra foothills... it's stop, and turn all day long... I usally do a set of front pads every Jan, or so... rear shoes only once... Tires every other Jan... the brakes seem to go a little longer now that I also have an ex brake... . For pads I usually use the AutoZone Duralasts... I know, they are not the best, but I bought one set a few years back, and the rest have been free, with their free replacement... . Wishin' I had an 01 1/2

 

[DCreed]

the inners of stainless braided lines are teflon/platic not like weak OEM rubber ones. they also dont expand, which is part of the reason OEMs feel "spongy" to most folks.

 

[GAmes]

the inners of stainless braided lines are teflon/platic... ... ... ... ... ... ... .

Not always true



http://www.bonacoinc.com/



and you might want to read this.



Brake Lines - NSX-Wiki



I don't know how factual it is, just happened to find it.

 

[tony597fitter]

From my years of Jeep 4wheeling. I will have to say the Stainless Steel brake lines are no better, actually IMO worse. I have seen first hand the rubber actually pushing through the Stainless Steel braid.

If you search Pirate4x4 there is pics on there.

Just by OEM ones they have lasted 140,000 miles on my truck and I am now replacing them.

 

[DCreed]

I used the stainless lines on my mustang roadracer with no problems but, I have 178,000 miles on my CTD with no issues. So OEM cant be all bad!

 

[Joe Mc]

I noticed you mentioned using Anti-Sieze, there's a particular lube made by Valvolene call Slid-Glide, comes in a pint tub and applies with a small brush. Not only do you lube the pins but slide surfaces where the caliper rides on the knuckles.



I have to agree with everyone that posted - an auto trans tends to go thru front pads more than a stick (on my 5th set in 79k miles) and the single piston calipers suck (on my 3rd set in as many miles) and I too wish I had 4 wheel calipers - rear drums BLOW big time. I agree with and had experienced the brake hose inside flap deal (creates a check valve of sorts) that causes the fliud not to be able to excape the piston and make the drag constant. Make sure the piston isn't cocked in the bore and stuck too. As far as the rotor I have an extra one from my 99 that's got alot of meat left on it and never been cut. If it'll work on yours (not sure 01 to 99) and you want me to mike it let me know and for the cost of shipping it's yours. PM me as I get emails telling me I have a PM - don't get on the site as frequently as I used to. Let me know - once again not sure if 99 will work on th 01?