2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission brake job on my 99; any advice?

[LKuilder]

Planning on replacing the brakes on my 99 here in the next week or so sometime. They've been getting down lately and really took a look at everything today. The front needs pads and probably rotors and the back should be fine with just shoes. I think I've settled on the Powerslot rotors with the Hawk Superduty pads for the front and the Mopar shoes on the back.



Any other suggestions or advice on this? Haven't replaced any brakes on this truck yet and just wondering if anyone who's done it before has any tips or anything.

 

[Fishin Guide]

I put some 3rd gen rotors on a buddy's truck. (17" wheel) Stops way better than mine. Don't know if it was the rotor or the added diameter.



Not a tough project. Make sure you get some caliper grease for the pins and slides. Other than that, take your time, check the fluid level and you're good to go.



I would recommend flushing the old brake fluid if it's been in for many years.



Dave

 

[WilsonF]

I am going with Dave's advice the caliper grease is important. If you have not already done it look into replacing the rear brake cylinders with the larger chevy wheel cylinders, one of the nicest up grades I've done to my truck. And flushing the fluid is not hard at all. Do yourself a favor and just gravity bleed the system, as a matter of fact I did that at the same time that I was doing the other work.

Floyd

 

[jkalchik]

Don't forget that you have to press out the wheel studs to replace the front rotors on a 99.

 

[Dave M]

I just did this on my 97 6 moths ago. If you have the unitized hubs where the rotors have the studs pressed thru the rotor/hub assembly then read up on removing the front hubs. It can be a nightmare. I broke a few adapters with cheater bars just trying to get the axle nut off (takes a BIG socket- be prepared) until I heated it.



The rotor/hub assembly has 4 14 mm 12 pt bolts holding it from behind the steering knuckle to the hub. This is a very close interference fit where the hub slides into the knuckle. This can been a real problem removing.



Read up on front hub removal and be prepared with the tools- especially the BIG socket for the axle nut that is not common to find.



Read these threads: https://www.turbodieselregister.com...iscussions/197762-99-brake-rotor-removal.html



Bad front Hub Bearing?? - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums



RotorHubService



Edit: Some tool info: Caliper takes a 3/8" allen head (tQ = 38 ft-lbs) . Axle nut is (almost 2 inches) 12 point 1 11/16" 3/4 or 1 inch drive socket... . start looking for this socket cause it's to very hard to find (TQ=175 ft-lbs). Four hub bolts holding hub to knuckle are 12 pt only 14 MM or 9/16 socket (TQ=125 ft-lbs. Consider replacing the wheel studs since you need to pound them out to get rotors off the hub... . or a least have a few spare studs to replace those you mess up..... I re-used all of mine but wish I'd replaced them. I replaced all the caliper pins, metal sleeves, rubber sleeves but you can clean, silicone grease, and re-use the old ones.





Good luck,

Dave

 

[MKinner]

I would take a hard look at your flexible brake lines. if they are at all questionable, replace them all. You would not believe how many time older brake line will start to deteriorate and brake down from the inside, especially if there has never been a fluid change. Sometimes when that happens it can act like a check valve inside the line and cause your caliper to drag.

 

[DirtyDodge]

Is there a major difference in the brake job listed above and doing the same on a 2002 4x4 2500 CTD? It seems like there is a lot of work pressing out wheel studs. Do the newer 2nd gen trucks have to worry about this as well?

 

[LandShark]

DirtyDodge: I just did new rotors on a '95 4x4 last week. Removing the studs takes about 10 seconds each, using a brass hammer. Inserting the studs in the new rotors takes only a minute each. Pound them in with a drift pin and then pull them tight using a couple of big washers and a lug nut.

 

[Dave M]

I think the question DirtyDodge is asking is are the rotors and hubs attached in the same way on his 2002 as the 99. I believe on the newer trucks the rotors come off without removing the hubs. I don't know what year they started making removing the rotors easier..... Anyone have input on this?



Knocking out the studs are no big problem as was stated. Its removing the hub from the knuckle that is the hard part of the job for most.



To get the studs off, when you get the Hubs off the knuckle, the Hub and rotor are together as an assembly. To seperate them put the Hub/Rotor assembly on the floor on two 2x4's. Get a hammer and put a nut on a stud a few threads to protect the bolt and whack it fast with the 3 lb sledge. They will pop out pretty easy once you get the hang of it. I re-used all the studs. Might get some extra new studs in case you bugger any threads up.



Now the hub is seperated from rotor. Get the new rotor (remember to get the correct right or left side if using drilled or slotted rotors) and tap the studs back in. I re-inserted the nuts and tightened a little to seat the studs and then removed the nuts. Put the hub rotor assembly back into the cleaned and anti-seized knuckle.

 

[J.BURCHFIELD]

I recently converted my 98 Ram to rear disc brakes with the kit from EGR that you may have seen advertised in TDR. To me it is well worth the money. All it has to do is save one accident and it is paid for a couple of times over. The difference in stopping distance is amazing. I took no measurements but the seat of the pants tells me it is how brakes should be.

 

[DirtyDodge]

I think the question DirtyDodge is asking is are the rotors and hubs attached in the same way on his 2002 as the 99. I believe on the newer trucks the rotors come off without removing the hubs. I don't know what year they started making removing the rotors easier..... Anyone have input on this?



Knocking out the studs are no big problem as was stated. Its removing the hub from the knuckle that is the hard part of the job for most.



To get the studs off, when you get the Hubs off the knuckle, the Hub and rotor are together as an assembly. To seperate them put the Hub/Rotor assembly on the floor on two 2x4's. Get a hammer and put a nut on a stud a few threads to protect the bolt and whack it fast with the 3 lb sledge. They will pop out pretty easy once you get the hang of it. I re-used all the studs. Might get some extra new studs in case you bugger any threads up.



Now the hub is seperated from rotor. Get the new rotor (remember to get the correct right or left side if using drilled or slotted rotors) and tap the studs back in. I re-inserted the nuts and tightened a little to seat the studs and then removed the nuts. Put the hub rotor assembly back into the cleaned and anti-seized knuckle.

Hi Dave,



That was the question I was asking. I am getting close to having to do a brake job and was hoping it was a little simpler than on the earlier 2nd gen trucks. Sounds like it is.



Thanks,

Derek

 

[KCJones]

just did brakes on my 2000 and the rotors slid right off the studs.

 

[DirtyDodge]

just did brakes on my 2000 and the rotors slid right off the studs.

That's good to hear, will be doing mine soon.

 

[BLassiter]

Just wanted to share that my 98. 5 brake lines from driver to passenger are of course different but the one that my 98. 5 had for i believe passenger had some sort of fitting on top of it and it was really difficult to find the correct one. Make sure you investigate and get an exact copy before you go taking them off. Good luck