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Brake Lines

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I am in the process of changing the brake fluid and installing a set of Crown brake lines on my truck and with the metric set of line wrenchs I have I cannot brake the inverted flare fittings loose on the top of the front hoses on either side. They are extremely tight. The metric line wrenchs I have are not very high quality, thinner than my snap-on standard set so they don't cover enough of the nut and when you apply pressure they are going to round the nut off I fear. I don't think heating is possible with the ABS wire right there and very close to the frame. I for sure want to avoid damage to the nut and steel line. I know I am likely going to have to buy a quality set of line wrenches or at least borrow a good 12mm and pray that will do it. My question is am I overlooking something here:confused: I know the Crown lines are like an inverted flare and are r/h thread and I assume the standard lines are the same and usually will come apart with the effort expended at this point. If anyone has any input or ideas I would be very thankful. Thank you all, John
 
I for sure want to avoid damage to the nut and steel line. I know I am likely going to have to buy a quality set of line wrenches or at least borrow a good 12mm and pray that will do it. My question is am I overlooking something here:confused: I know the Crown lines are like an inverted flare and are r/h thread and I assume the standard lines are the same and usually will come apart with the effort expended at this point. If anyone has any input or ideas I would be very thankful. Thank you all, John



Are you using flare nut wrenches? Given the force you're describing, I sure would suggest doing so.



Maybe even better, since you're replacing the lines anyway why not cut the OE stainless line just above the nut, then use a 12mm 6-point socket to remove the nut?



-Ryan
 
It seemed so simple.

Are you using flare nut wrenches? Given the force you're describing, I sure would suggest doing so.



Maybe even better, since you're replacing the lines anyway why not cut the OE stainless line just above the nut, then use a 12mm 6-point socket to remove the nut?



-Ryan



Thanks for the reply Ryan. To clarify a bit, the fittings I couldn't get loose were on the steel lines from the ABS pump to the rubber hoses at the front wheels and rear axle anchored in a bracket on the frame. Cutting the hose would not help as the crimped fitting on the hoses are larger than the 12mm needed to turn the flare nut on the line. I had a flare nut/line wrench but it being a cheap tool bought at O-Reillys was not wide enough on the wrench flats to allow enough torque to get them to break loose without it rounding off the nut. I borrowed an S+K 12mm from a friend and it broke them all, although both front lines were ugly tight and pass. side nut was frozen to the steel line and required heat to loosen it. Also bleeder screws were all rusted tight, broke r/rear off and had to remove by welding a nut on it. I figured this to be an easy job as this truck has very low mileage and has always been garaged, but had been out on salted winter roads some. Thanks again guys, John :)
 
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