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Brake pads

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HELP, over GVWR BY 400 lbs.

Part # for 18" Laramie Wheel

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All of the Napa pads I've used in the past created lot's of brake dust. I tried the Hawk brand pad that Geno's Garage sells and I also got lot's of brake dust. I ended up going back to the OEM pads. I buy them online through Mopar wholesaler sites.
 
I got to change my brake pads. The squeaking is driving me crazy!!!! Anybody used the NAPA premium pads?

Did you do the R&R or someone else?

Squealing most likely is not the pad. Did you break them in? Did you have the rotors turned?

Did you use the proper silicone grease to lube all mating parts/sleves and where the back of the pads make contact with the calipers?

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OK now I understand. Are your pads worn out? If not I would service them as I said above. Squealing usually is NOT the pads.

Personally I would get the best grade of OE. NAPA is a crap shoot anymore. If you go NAPA go severeDuty.
 
You may not need new brake pads, but if you do replace them I've been told by experts the the best ones are OEM.
 
OEM. Make sure that the dealer doesn't sell you the Mopar Valueline Pads, you want the same Part Number pads that came on the truck when they look it up by the VIN..

They should run about $120.00 or so depending on the source.

Worth every penny IMHO.
 
I have had great success and really like the NAPA pads.... no squeal, excellent friction. BUT..... as mentioned above, they do dust more. I just clean the wheels more often.
 
Auto Zone says their pads are life time free replacement just save the box and reciept.... Guess we'll see how true it is. I use to use RaBestos brand on my buisness truck years back. They had a buy one and the replacement set were free. I use to do front pads every 40,000 rear shoes every 80,000. I had over 500,000 miles on that truck and got many free break pads and shoes.
As for your squeeling pads I found that the rear pads were stuck in the slide on my 2013. Stuck with rust. I had to remove the pads and clean the rust out. The tabs on the pads were slightly bent from the calaper forcing them in when stopping the fact the tab was stuck and got bent would not allow the pad to move off the rotor when the breaks wee released. At 54,000 miles all the pads have better than 2/3 of their life left.
 
OEM. Make sure that the dealer doesn't sell you the Mopar Valueline Pads, you want the same Part Number pads that came on the truck when they look it up by the VIN..

They should run about $120.00 or so depending on the source.

Worth every penny IMHO.

X2...............I'm at 148k on my 2014 w/OEM friction material. Very impressed. :)
 
I just had brake issues with my 2012. I also has some squealing but didn't think too much of it. Saturday I was rotating the tires and noticed the front right lug nuts were too hot to hold even though I had only driven a few miles to the store a half hour earlier. I found the inside brake pad was worn way down and the wheel would not rotate by hand no matter how hard I tried. It seems the pad had become stuck/rusted in place. I replaced the pads on both sides and lubed the slide points with caliper grease. Now the tire rotates easily and and a 60 mile trip Sunday even showed my mpg was up too.
 
I am guessing you use your EB. :D

Faithfully !!! :-laf

Lots of times, between initiating an early coast, as well as using the exhaust brake, and occasionally TOW/HAUL mode, I'm really only lightly on the brakes from about 35--45 mph down to zero.

Blows my mind whenever I read on other forums that RAM owners state "my brakes are crappy" and "my brakes suck" and "my brakes won't stop this truck" and "my FoMoCo's brakes are/were better"............... :eek:
 
I do have to say my 2011 Dually took less pedal pressure to stop. I run TH and full on EB all the time! My brake fluid level has hardly moved in 15K. I am sure I will be trading this one before the pads are worn out. I like NC Haulers frequent buyers program.
 
I just went ahead and ordered the power stop extreme pads. Will see how they do

I installed both front and rear PowerSop Extreme a few weeks ago and am very happy with them. I lubed in all the right places and broke them in as the instructions say. No jitter, no squeal, just smooth braking. I'm very impressed... so far.

"5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from. Then do 5 mod*erate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed. This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure."
After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
)
 
How did we EVER get by in the old days, with taking the glaze off the rotors and installing the BP's with lube so the calipers could actually move a bit. This new style wrenching has me baffled

Let me see, :confused:

Click your ruby red slippers 3 times and say " THERE'S NO PLACE LIKE HOME " after each click of the heals, Then cross your fingers right over left for 3 stops then the left over right for 3 more times.

GLAD TO BE AN OLD HICK FROM THE STCKS :rolleyes:

ME :D
 
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