2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake problem w/99 2500

[MullinsM]

Brake problem w/99 2500 4x4

Have been having problem with pull to the right. Had brakes redone (new calipers, brake lines, pads and rotors turned) at shop and when you first start off in the morning the brakes grab real bad. Now the right front brake has worn down to the metal in 5 months since replacement. Reading some of the threads on brakes it appears this may be a bleeding problem that shops do not know about. Any help will be appreciated.

 

[Dartman]

Moon

Mine was pulling to the left for about three years. I fixed it during my brake job. Here's a link to a post for some of what I did. You ought to rebuild them yourself. Then you know what has been done. It is hard for me to make the time, but I do it anyway. Try doing a thread search on front brakes in the forums.

You are probably going to need new rotors since you've turned them once and it is down to the metal. There's not a lot of material for turning them before you reach the minimum thickness. I can PM you some sites if you like for parts. Tony



https://www.turbodieselregister.com./forums/showthread.php?t=112269

 

[MullinsM]

Thanks Dartman. Appreciate the advice. Followed the thread. What is a power bleeder and where do you get one?

 

[Dartman]

Power bleeders

Moon51;

A power bleeder is a pressurized bleed system that hooks up to your master cyclinder resevoir. You put brake fluid into the tank of the power bleeder, pressurize the tank with about 15 PSI, then crack your bleed valves one at a time to bleed the system. The pressure in the tank forces the fluid into the master cylinder resevoir and into your brake system once a bleed valve is opened. Never used one, so if I am wrong on my general explination, please, someone correct me here.



Another system uses vacuum to bleed the brakes. Don't know if this is classified as a "power bleeder", but it is also a one-man bleed system. You hook up a brake fluid drain hose to the bleed valve, and it sucks the fluid out. Some are manual, and some use compressed air that creates a vacuum in a catch bottle attached to the unit. Haven't used this one, either.



I bought Speed Bleeder bleed valves for my brakes. I am a bit old school with originally having to use the two-man concept for bleeding the brakes. With the speed bleeders, you open the valve the normal 1/4 turn, then go pump the brakes yourself without a helper! I love it! The company installed a ball and spring to make a one-way check valve inside their bleed valves. Plenty of ease for me.



I know it takes time to read though the threads. I have spent hours searching and sometimes still don't find what I am looking for. But there is a wealth of info and experiance I have learned from. I tend to get side-tracked a lot. Saving links and info I can use for other areas of my truck later. Anyways,... ... I am rambling a novel here. Let me know if I can help anymore. Trying to return the favors I have been give on this site. Tony.



Here are a few more links for bleeder info. You might want to search the these forums and then the web for a power bleed system.



http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog. jsp?L1=L1_2000&L2=L2_2050&SKU=35701



http://www.speedbleeder.com/



http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm I bought their stainles/kevlar lines. They are nice!



http://www.stoptech.com/technical/ A lot of good general brake info under their "technical" link.



http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog. jsp?L1=L1_2000&L2=L2_2050&SKU=85700 Another vacuum bleeder from Groits. Haven't looked for any power bleeder systems, so I don't have any info.

 

[sp_longhorn]

99 3500

I have a buddy whose truck is doing the same thing, pulls to the right and recently wore out a set of pads at 5000 miles on brake job. We put new caliper and lines last time, still doing it. My brakes on my 01 seem like they are a whole lot easy for stopping than his truck. On his you have to mash them harder to stop. Could this be a simple bleed which we have done, or part of the brake system = Abs motor or the proportional valve. Anyone been through this before??

 

[Dartman]

I have a buddy whose truck is doing the same thing, pulls to the right and recently wore out a set of pads at 5000 miles on brake job. We put new caliper and lines last time, still doing it.

Longhorn; Check out the link on my first post in this thread. Had explained what I did to fix my pulling. More than likely it is the caliper to spindle guides sticking. But the back brakes out of adjustment can cause the truck to pull also.



As far as the '99 not braking as good as your 2001, I am not sure. Haven't compared the two, personnaly. I changed my brake fluid with some good synthetic (Super Blue Racing Fluid), put 1 3/16" rear wheel cylinders in the rear, rebuilt the calipers (cleaned them up good,too), and installed EGR's SS/kevlar flex lines. I got significantly better braking now. Motul is also a good brake fluid.



Check this site for the caliper lube under "individual Parts":

http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm