2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake problems.

[Pedersen]

B][/B]Brake problems with my Ram 3500. I have 184000miles on my truck and now have to replace front brake rotors again. they crack. . This will be the third set. SO. My question is what would be best to do now. I have been thinking if it is possible to disconnect the ABS system and then install a trottel valve on outlet to front calibers so I can get better pressure to the rear brakes. What do you think, Is this possible ?

 

[bmoeller]

Are the adjusters for the rear brakes working?



These trucks seem to always be harder on the front rotors. I'd try some slotted or cross drilled rotors. Should stay a bit cooler.



I know my current Ford has a valve that goes between the rear axle and the frame. It changes the brake bias when loaded. Don't know that it was foctory, or that the BNSF RR that was the original owner, special ordered that part. My last gas Ford didn't have it.

 

[Joe Mc]

I remember someone here buying slotted or drilled rotors for their truck @ NAPA. I was shocked that NAPA would have them. I think this person also got some kind of special pads @ NAPA too. The cross drilled/slotted rotors allow the gases that build up to dissapate much better and would help things cool down quicker.

 

[Pedersen]

I have that already. The rotors there are on the truck now are drilled and cross vented, also installed bigger cylinders on the back, what I don't think ever made a difference.

 

[SMorneau]

I don't thing the cracks are uncommon. Mine rotors have over 280k miles on them and they have surface cracks most of that time. Could you post some pictures of the cracking for us to see?



And yes, I know I'm due for new rotors and bearings.

 

[San Felipe Bob]

Heat is your enemy.

Make sure you installed the chevy 1-3/16" wheel cylinders.



Are your calipers dragging?

Do your wheels spin freely as in this video?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGHd5-j2TQk

Are you keeping the caliper pins lubed?

I used to lube mine every 1000 miles.

Check out my readers rig gallery for some important brake tips and tricks.



I had the same problems with my brake system as you.

Turns out most of my problems could be traced back to dragging calipers caused by the caliper pins sticking.



With 180k miles on your rig you might consider changing the front brake hoses.



Calipers can be a drag, but they don't have to be.

Keep your pins lubed



SFB

 

[litespeed]

I have that already. The rotors there are on the truck now are drilled and cross vented, also installed bigger cylinders on the back, what I don't think ever made a difference.

There is your problem... ...



A quality gas slotted rotor is superior to a cross drilled variant. The ones you have are the worst of everything. Less swept area and less material for the pads to grab. Cross drilled rotors are not the choice for your application, or the street. They will cause pad galling and will crack.



Anyone that has ever been around racing knows that "cross drilled" rotors are VERY prone to crack. Especially around the holes.



Quality gas slotted rotors and good pads (not AutoZone or Advance) will solve the problem unless you have other hidden problems. IE: Stuck and frozen caliper pistons and improperly adjusted drum brakes... ...



If you need more info. send me a PM.



Regards,



AJ

 

[Pedersen]

Brake system, ABS ?

Thanks for all the information, but are there anybody there can tell me if I can disconnect the ABS system without the computer is going to give me an error or something like that. I do belive installing a trottel valve for the front calibers, sending more fluid to the back will help. I have also been informed that 1998. 5 is the worst year for brakes.

My truck has been in several professional brake shops, and it always come back with almost no stopping on the rear wheels.

 

[jelag]

I worked on my BIL's 3500 a while back because all he did was complain about short brake life and having to replace rotors... . we found that the shop that had been working on it was just replacing the pads and letting him go... . when we pulled the calipers and the pistons from the calipers we found dirt behind the boot... . the dirt was causing the piston to stick and allowing for some pressure on the pads... wearing them out and overheating the rotors...



What made us go looking for this problem was his complaint of short brake life... . we had to replace the pistons... . and we put new seals in the calipers... . once we got it back together and gave him the truck back the first comment was that he was seeing 50 -75 more miles per tank... . to date he has almost doubled the mileage of the previous brake job... with no signs of heat damage to the rotors... . we had to replace them as well..... Usually the simple answer is the correct answer... ...



The ABS is a life saving device and only effects the brakes if and when one wheel starts to slip... ... I suggest you look very closely at the complete system. . We don't use slotted rotors or drilled rotors... . just the high end import ones... and have had no problems... but we understand brakes and the problems they can cause if not cared for correctly... .



The company that my BIL was using has over 200 stores in the pacific northwest... I called them and told them about the failure to actually find the problem... they couldn't care less about what I shared with them... .



stilling - the front disc brakes on our trucks do about 70% of the braking with only about 30% done on the rear..... if the rear did equal braking you'd lock the back brakes up all the time as there isn't the weight back there..... remember that when you stop the front of the truck nose dives down... . as it does this weight is lifted off the rear axle... .



Its taken a lot of good engineers many years to develop the high quality and safe brakes we have..... I'd not mess with them..... can you imagine the lawsuit you'd face if you modified the brakes as you suggest and later this truck was in a bad collision... .



lightspeed - please define ""gas slotted"" this is a term I've never heard.....

 

[litespeed]

lightspeed - please define ""gas slotted"" this is a term I've never heard.....

Gas Slotted rotor is an industry term. It refers to a rotor that has been cut to allow the evacuation of hot gasses off the rotor surface.



When you apply the brakes, hot gasses build up between the pad and rotor. These gasses cause brake fade as they cause the rotor to get very hot. Gas slotted rotors evacuate the gas allowing you to stop hard repeatedly without brake fade and without warping/cracking the rotors.



If you have every pulled anything heavy... . You know what I am talking about. The difference between a quality set of "gas slotted" rotors and the factory crap is night and day.



Here is the standard. Read on.....





http://www.powerslot.com/



Hope this helps.







ON a different note. I have actually seen the caliper pistons rust, crack and split. Causing the brakes to stick, get hot, warp the rotors and cause the pads to separate from there backing. Causing near catastrophic damage.



Troubleshooting is the key to the problem here. Not throwing $$$ (parts) at it.



Pics of what happens with "hot brakes" are in my gallery. This was before the gas slotted rotors while pulling a 17,000 pound camper.

 

[Mark Craig]

stilling,



Get some Powerslot Cyro'ed rotors and Hawk pads and you'll be very impressed. They do NOT reccomend any drilled rotor on any 3/4re or heavier truck as they will crack and you do lose as much as 15% of the swept area of the rotor which reduces braking performance. The cyro treatment eliminates cracking and warpage too. The Ford's are lots worse abotu this than the Dodge's and we have cured the Ford issues with these parts every time. My wife's Naviagtor is even worse yet and they cured it as well. We get calls back from customers too all the time that are that impressed with them.



Mark @ DPPI