2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake Proportioning Valve

[GatorRam]

I'm looking for some info from people that have made adjustments or removed their proportioning valve to get more braking from the rear brakes. What did you do?



Thanks ,



Adam

 

[rkressg]

I have not seen too many people remove the proportioning valve to get more brake power to the rear wheels, but what I have seen is people installing wheel cylinders for a 3500. That should provide for far more rear braking force, and is nothing more than a simple change.

-Rich

 

[justinp20012500]

I have not seen too many people remove the proportioning valve to get more brake power to the rear wheels, but what I have seen is people installing wheel cylinders for a 3500. That should provide for far more rear braking force, and is nothing more than a simple change.

-Rich

The wheel cylinder is a fairly easy mod. Works great too.



You can lengthen the portioning valve rod a little to increase the braking force in the rear.



I lengthened mine when I lifted the truck. After I took the lift off I cut a little out and rewelded it. You can just pull the rod off the axle and use a zip tie to move the rod up towards the bed a little. Just keep moving it until you get it where you like the braking feel.



Just remember. If your truck does not have factory anti brakes in the rear, hard braking can make the back wheels lock up and cause the vehicle to loose control.





Justin

 

[Jschafer]

Do the 94s have the proportioning valve at the rear axle?

 

[MRirie]

I would just install the GM 1 ton rear wheel cylinders. The GM cylinders are larger than the Dodge 1 ton cylinders. The NAPA part # is 4637337. They run around $13. 00 ea. and install in about an hour and a half. You will see 30+% more rear brake pressure. I just did this mod to my 01 and my dad's 00 and boy what a difference.

 

[Regcabguy]

I carry an 1800lb popup camper at all times on my truck and had a hell of a time stopping it until bypassing the proportioning valve with the Mopar part mentioned in a TSB on heavily loaded trucks with premature front brake wear(don't remember the tsb #) Vehicle stops much better now with little or no lockup even unladen. Before this I installed the 3500 brake cylinders to no avail.

 

[V Baker]

Here's the TSB for valve . http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/05-04-98.htm

 

[Dane]

Be carefull...

What works great in the dry will have the back end of the truck trying to pass you in the wet.

 

[jrobinson2]

Load sensing proportioning valve TSB: Here



Jared

 

[GatorRam]

Thanks everybody. I think I might have seen something like this before but what I'm gonna do is measure and cut the connecting rod on the valve and cut threads on it with a die. Then I can fab up some pieces to make a turnbuckle and make it adjustable.



Adam

 

[JGK]

GatorRam,



I've been considering putting a turnbuckle in mine as well. I've discovered that a screen door cross brace, as found at most hardware stores, might be just the solution. The rod is about the same diameter as the rod that moves the valve on the truck. The turnbuckle is just a long hex nut with the proper threading at each end. Simply cut out a section of the rod on the truck and weld sections of the brace rods in place.



-Jay

 

[GatorRam]

Thanks, I'll check it out!!!

 

[DESL PWR]

I'll second Dane..... Be Careful.



I put a lift on my truck and just repositioned the arm on the splined shaft into the valve. What I didnt do was mark my orig position. Now under hard braking my rears will lock up on dry pavement. Once I think I even made three skid marks when braking hard to avoid some idiot.