Brake Pull Fixed...But GOOD!

[Old Account - 243]

Larry,

I do not doubt that you fixed your brake pull but I'll bet that it is temporary.

When I bought the new Raybestos calipers and pads, the bolts and sleeves were separate items. The bolt even had a section that was turned down to hold more grease.

The brake pull is back again.

243

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99 QC 2500 ST 4X4 SB 24V/5speed 3. 54/LSD Driftwood/Agate
Walker 21468, VDO, Bridgestone 285/75/16 MT's, RS9000's, Hella 500's

-- email address removed --

 

[larryq]

It reallly stinks that your truck got the pull back... .

But I don't think Mine will... .
My truck NEVER stopped this straight!...
Even brand new!

I did try aligning to the"New Magic" alignment numbers... . that helped in driving straight... but not at all for braking. .

Take into consideration that most of my driving is stop and go... . and 3500 miles + and the pull hasn't returned... ... Well I'm Hopefull. . !!! #ad


Even if the fix is temporary...
For the price of Lube. . Nev-R-Sieze... and a set of caliper pins...
I'll gladly do it every six MONTHS if that's what it takes to stop straight... .

Which brings up another point... .
I noticed on my stock pins there was a lot of "Fretting Wear" on the o. d.

I wonder ... if your pull came back... HMMMMM. .

Check your pins... . look for areas that have been "Peened" if they look like they've been damaged. . then the next possibility would be move to harder pins that will resist geting craters worn into them...

Another thing I thought of is the relationship between the O. D. of the pin and the I. D. of the bore in the caliper it rides in...

If this "Gap" is excessive then the pin is indeed being beaten to death by the caliper body every time you apply the brake.

The only thing you haven't replaced is the spindle "Rail" that actually holds the caliper...

If it's not "Square" to the rotor face. . or even if the threaded holes in the "Rail" that take the caliper pin bolts weren't drilled and tapped square to the rotor. . the caliper will want to twist itself when you apply the brake.

This just isn't the direction you want the caliper twisted as its going to want to snap the pins and bolts right off the spindle rail.

If it were my call... .
1) Buy another set of pins and bolts.
2) Buy and replace the spindle "Rails"
(Im not sure if this is the proper term)

I know your frustrated. . #ad
I would be also...

But its either keep picking at it... live with the pull. . or trade the truck.

GOOD LUCK!!!!
Larry

 

[Old Account - 243]

Larry-

I hope all goes well with your truck. You know first hand how aggravating it is.

I am going to try switching the left and right brake lines at the valve by the Power Distribution Center.

If I still have a pull to the right, I'll switch the calipers from left to right and check the pins at the same time.

243

 

[Dane]

Hey Larry, How about the Napa part # for the replacement pin kit? I don't have any pull yet, but the right side brake dust build up far exceeds the left side. That ain't right and I'd like to start trouble shooting now before I've roasted or scored the right side rotor. Are you running stock pads? Any ideas on how to check the calipers to make sure the pin holes are bored square?

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

 

[larryq]

My truck (98. 5 24V 2500 4X4 Clubcab) was one of the many that suffered from moderate to Severe brake pull.

I have been Lurking in the shadows looking at all of the possible fixes that have been posted here.

I was about to slap down BUCKS for a set of blueprinted calipers... when I decided to start the evaluation process myself...

I also decided that before I broke the bank I'd try the "Cheap" solutions out first.

My FIRST ATTEMPT fixed the problem... even after I had taken the truck to the dealer 5 times for them to fix.

Here is what I did and why I think it worked.

1) I changed to AFTER MARKET CALIPER PINS.
2) I made up a "Custom" lube of 50-50 Synthetic caliper grease and Nev-R-Sieze.

Thats it... !!!! Brake pull gone for 3500 miles so far!!!
The truck stops as straight as an arrow now!


This is My thinking on the "Why".

The Crysler Caliper pins are an assembly of a hollow pin CRIMPED onto a long allen cap screw.
This Crimp makes it possible to loosen the bolt and pull both the bolt and pin out as one part.

Nice idea... but in the Process of "Crimping" the pin onto the bolt, the pin is either being squashed out of round or bent.

The after market pins I found were a kit with Pins and Bolts as two seperate components. (Got them from the local NAPA)

Since the pins were never "Smashed" in a Crimping die, the pins will be straighter and more round.

Does the fact that the pins won't come out with the caliper Bolt pose a problem... ???
Not really... to get the pin out now, the caliper needs to be lifted off the hub and the pins then pressed back through the hole.

Why the 50-50 mixed lube... . ??
I'd like to take credit for it... But I can't.
I read that one here...
It sounded like a good idea and sure couldn't hurt!

I hope this helps others that are suffering from the dreaded Brake Pull Issue!

 

[TowPro]

I'm with 243 on this one, if there was a real fix, dodge would have done a TSB. This is a big problem for Dodge, I know of at least one truck they bought back because of it! (My friends truck) and nothing a car manufacture hates more then "buying back lemons"

Originally posted by 243:
Larry,

I do not doubt that you fixed your brake pull but I'll bet that it is temporary.

When I bought the new Raybestos calipers and pads, the bolts and sleeves were separate items. The bolt even had a section that was turned down to hold more grease.

The brake pull is back again.

243

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• 98 ISB,QC,5spd,2wd,3:54lsd. Stock with BD brake and Gauges!
• 2000 Terry 305G 5th wheel

 

[ftb87]

Dane,

Mine seem to have more brake dust on the right side also? I had the dealer check it out and they said everything is fine? Does anyone have the same thing happen to thier truck?

frank

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01 White, Quad Cab,Short Box ,Sport SLT+,5 speed,4X4,line-x ,Nerf bars,fiberglass tonneau cover

 

[Old Account - 243]

I talked to a tech at Raybestos this morning.

First, I asked if I could replace the rubber bushings with bronze bushings to remove the slop and the possibility of the caliper racking. She said no, the problem would be different coeffiecients of expansion for the three different metals would result in a bigger problem.

I then starting asking about the brake pull. She said to start with a pressure gauge at the bleeder screw of each caliper. She told me that the operating pressure of a typical brake system was 1000-1200psi. She said a difference of 20psi would cause a pull.

TXRam does not believe 20psi is significant but we will try to hook up a gauge soon.

I am going to dicker with the calipers tonight anyway. I am going to mix a little molybdium disufide with the brake grease and see if it will stay on the pins longer.

I sure don't think we should have to grease the pins every oil change but it may just be the case.

243

 

[WCrovo]

IMHO install seperate brake lines to front calipers and get rid of the single piston calipers. Use ,I think Russells will or can make them if they don't you can engineer something with existing part numbers. Them T'ing in the left wheel well is funky. I would of paid big bucks to have made or finding dual piston calipers. I could get rid of my pull on my 99 temporarily consistently but never for good. I got rid of mine with a new truck with 4 wheel discs. If it pull I'm going postal. Dane I don't think you will have the problem. DC has changed calipers and front end geometry after 99. When I hit the brakes on my new truck I still cringe sometimes. Thank god it hasn't!!!!!!!!!

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2001 2500 tow, camper, SWB, ETH, Bright white.

 

[TXRam]

Is everyone's pull to the right? If so I think that blows all theories of calipers, pins, etc. being the major problem. If it were any of those issues, I believe we would see more like a 50/50 mix of left pull and right pull. I believe there is something flawed in the design of either 1) the hydraulic system, or 2) design difference between the brake systems on the two front wheels. Why else would all of our trucks only pull to the right, never to the left.

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1999 2500 QC 4X4 LB Auto (Upgraded), 4. 10LS, 275HP Injectors, PowerEdge, PowerEdge EZ, SPA Boost and EGT, K&N Air Filter
NRA Member

 

[illflem]

Well this might blow all the theories,my 4x4 brake pull has always been to the left,which is worse because it could result in a head-on rather than going off the side of the road.
I've been able to fix it by replacing pads,lubing the pins well and last time replacing the left rotor. The last fix has lasted about 40k,but it just starting to do it again. At least I know how to take the brake components apart blindfolded now.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

[larryq]

Mine pulled HARD Left!!! before I fixed them!!

I was also getting a lot more brake dust off that side as well... the right side just was there for the ride!

I've still got my money on the Crimped pins on some trucks being damaged ...

I hope my 2500 stays on the "Straight and Narrow"!

I also hope that everyone can get this ironed out... it's just DANGEROUS!!!!

Larry

 

[Scooby]

Hey Larry,

Good job - now get to work on that steering pull problem!! #ad
#ad


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'01 2500 SLT+, QC, LWB, 4X4, 3. 54s, AT, SPA guages, Alpha Liner, every option but running lights!

'98 DUCATI ST2 "Bombed" 944CC with Ducati Performance Carbon Fiber Exhaust, F. I. M. Chip, K&N and "modified" air box.

 

[larryq]

I threw the boxes the pins and bolts came in... so I no longer have the part number... sorry...


I would be more interested in checking the squareness of the threaded holes on the caliper "Rail Hub" (the part that actually holds the caliper body) and the rotor face...
This should be easy to check...

Remove the wheel and caliper.
install the caliper pin and bolt into the threaded hole without the caliper body.

Use a machinists square and check the perpendicularity of the rotor face to the body of the pins (each individualy)

Check the pins to each other and make sure they are tru and parallel.

This brake pull issue is fixable!...

It's just a matter of finding the component that is causing the problem.

I like the idea that 243 is going to swap lines... . but if the problem is a kinked hardline... .
The only way to eliminate that is to follow the line all the way down and do a visual.

If the line has an obstruction in the I. D. only changing the line will help find that.

The flex lines may be faulty... have those been changed??


And no... I changed to Wagner "Gold " brake pads.

Dodge would never do a recall at this point...
There are just too many trucks out there that don't have any pull at all. .

I hope they take some of these "Buy Back" trucks and get to the bottom of the pull issue once and for all!!!


As for Me... Right now My truck is stopping perfectly... .
The only thing that could be improveed on now would be rear brakes that stay adjusted on their own!!!

I'll be working on that one this spring / summer. .
I've got some ideas... let's see where they go.

Larry



[This message has been edited by Larry Quinn (edited 01-05-2001). ]

 

[larryq]

Steering pull was fixed about 4 months ago... .

I had a real good alignment guy. . who also drove a ram 2500 gasser, do my alignment to the "Magic Numbers" that were posted here...

So a search and I think you'll find them.
I believe it was posted by a Dodge Mechanic.


Wherever they came from... . they just plain WORK!!!

Having that 6 Cylinder BEAST over the front axle makes every 1/10th of a degree act like a full degree in a regular 2500.

Good Luck!!!

 

[J Hakes]

I have a 99 QC 2500 ST 4x4 Auto 4. 10 Rear end
4 whl anti-loc brakes anti-spin rear end camper spec and velvet ride add on. I pull a 9000 lb 5th wheel and noticed pull to the right at about 5 to 6000 miles. This then switched to pulling to the left. Have checked all brakes, disassembled pads, measured pads. Left pads and disc showing more wear than right. Lubed pins and reinstalled. Pulling trailer in hard rain the other day the brakes started to acting normal. Must be all the water on the pins that retain the pads. Plan to add AFTER MARKET CALIPER PINS and install new pads (with discs turned)and see what happens. Thanks for the info Larry Quinn. Will let you know how mine comes out. Pulling in both directions. jhakes@qnet.com

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[LSMITH]

I get a brake pull in mine once in a while. I have been able to adjust the rears and it goes away, So far, so good.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S

[This message has been edited by LSMITH (edited 01-17-2001). ]

 

[Pete Peterson]

Larry, just bringing this to the top one more time toask if you get a chance to go by the parts store if you could round up the part#'s you used on this fix. Thanks Pete