Brake Pull

[JFitzgerald]

Does anyone else have a brake pull more on one side? Mine pulls to the left. It's the front, because it pulls the steering wheel to the left. This spring I put in new pads and rotors. Calipers don't seem to be hanging up, as truck will roll easily on the slightest incline.

 

[Philip]

A bad brake hose can cause this problem.

 

[RDusch]

Fitz.



I think Philip hit the nail on the head, mine pulled real bad until i did my brakes, and installed the front stainless hoses, the truck stops perfectly straight now.



Rick

 

[DPKetchum]

Right caliper can be lazy also.

 

[formula]

Check your rear slack adjusters. I had the left one freeze up and it caused a pretty bad pull to the right. If front end is way out of alignment, it can cause pull (check tire wear). If the truck will roll easily this doesn't necessarily mean that a caliper isn't bound up. Had one get kinda wedged in its bracket on my old truck, yikes, talk about steering pull. Check your kingpins too, if they're fried then it'll cause the affected front wheel to move around under braking. Unlikely, but cooked wheel bearings could also do it. To quickly check the kingpins and wheel bearings, jack up the front end of the truck. While looking at the kingpins and the wheel hub, pull out on the bottom of the wheel and see if anything moves around. If ya take the wheel off, (easier to see) just yank up and down on the hub and check for movement.



Hope this helps,



Sean

 

[Philip]

If you look at the hose setup on our W models you will see they are to short for what they do. In one direction of turn they almost crimp themselfs shut. This is very hard on hoses. I change mine out every two years. Even if it doesn't need brakes.



If you have not ever lost the front brakes. Let me tell you. The rears will barely stop them.



It was time for dinner. Thats why it was a short first post.

 

[JFitzgerald]

Good input as usual...

Thanks for all the info. Never thought about the hoses. Are you saying the right one could be weak and swelling under pressure, which causes less caliper piston movement on that side? Or am I thinking too hard?



The rear brakes seem to be fine. They don't drag, and I jack it up and adjust them at every oil change. I believe the alignment is pretty good, it drives straight (until I hit the brakes) and my mud tires are wearing very evenly, which in my mind is a pretty good indicator. Mud tread tires seem to show alignment problems very quickly, more so than other tires. The ball joints should be good, but I'll check 'em to be sure. They were replaced about a year and a half ago.



Another thing crossed my mind when reading what you said about caliper binding, formula. I'm sure I didn't grease the sliding points on those calipers when I put the new rotors and pads on. It always bothered me thinking about having any grease near the brake pads that could melt and go where it is not wanted. What do you guys do?



BTW, I was talking my confused friend who drives a '95 Furd PS crew cab. His truck pulls to the left also.

 

[DPKetchum]

Usualy the side that pulls is the side that's working ok. Pulls left the right side has a problem and it can be as simple as pads or sticking caliper hardware. I've seen pads swaped left to right and pulls is now in other direction or even stop straight!

 

[Philip]

What happens is the inner rubber lining breaks. Then it acts as a flap and closes off the line and will not let fluid threw. Or an amount smaller than is required to have both calapiers work the same.



Now your friend with the PSD. I have seen Ford lines bulge and not let you get a firm pedal. Plus the lines looked good. But under pressure they would bulge just enough to kill the pedal. They also had problems with the rear anti lock valve to some extent.



I do not grease the caliper slides. But I do clean them up with a 3m buffing disk an a die grinder.

I've seen pads swaped left to right and pulls is now in other direction or even stop straight!

So have I.

 

[Dieselman359]

Lube

I don't know about grease, but dad always says, "Put a little Anti-Seze on them. " So thats what I do.

You want real brakes, suck it up and spend about 1K on an exhaust brake, you won't know haow you ever lived without it.

 

[formula]

Re: Good input as usual...

Originally posted by JFitzgerald



Another thing crossed my mind when reading what you said about caliper binding, formula. I'm sure I didn't grease the sliding points on those calipers when I put the new rotors and pads on. It always bothered me thinking about having any grease near the brake pads that could melt and go where it is not wanted. What do you guys do?

As far as the caliper binding that I mentioned before, that happened when, for whatever reason, the caliper and its bracket were badly worn. The caliper got jammed in the bracket kinda crooked and didn't make much contact with the rotor. Got a junkyard bracket and a new caliper to fix the problem. Also thought of another caliper problem that I've experienced... ... the piston got jammed and caliper would not work. If anyone is wondering, all of this stuff did not happen to just one truck. This talk of brake line problems has got me interested in replacing my front lines just to be on the safe side.



Sean

 

[rwinslow]

Another cause for brake pull - front axle u-joints are nearly seized up. You cannot tell from hand rotating them if they are almost seized - look for rust, etc. on the u-joint itself. Mine pulled and was not cured until I replaced the front u-joints.

 

[JFitzgerald]

I could see a light coating of anti-seize helping. Just to clarify, I would definitely not use just regular grease, but I have seen special grease at parts stores just for brake parts. I suppose it would be up to the high brake temps.



I'll be checking the rubber hoses. They are likely the originals. Are the SS braided lines worth the extra money? Haven't priced any, I'm just assuming they'd cost more.



An e-brake would be nice. Maybe someday... . For the most part, the truck brakes and the big brakes on my gooseneck do a good job of slowing it all down.

 

[Philip]

I just use the ones from NAPA my self. Under $10 each. I replace all four on the truck at the same time.



The stainless ones look good. But it is hard to tell outer condition of the hose. The stainless covers it up. With the tight turning setup on the front axles. I don't know if they would last much longer. The stainless lines still have a rubber core.



The only time I look at them is if I am going off roading a lot in remote areas.

 

[DPKetchum]

I have seen many slides from cars to trucks stuck and binding with normal road grud and tech's I worked with also commented Darn some shop or whoever dosen'nt clean and lube these this is what happens. ON prestage auto's porshe,lexus etc it's part of normal mileage maintance to clean and lube slides and pins and flush brake fliud even if linings look new etc. I worked in a porshe shop years ago and it was done every 15k then. I have a tech friend in a Lexus dealer and it's part of every mileage maintance and every used car prep.

 

[csnider]

I also agree that you should change your front brake hoses. especially if they are original. I'm sure you will get a more even braking action and much improved stopping power. If your truck is 4X4, don't forget to change the "T" hose that goes from the chassis to the axle... . Good luck... ..... Chuck