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Brake puzzle

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Using battery minder or charger?

Fluidfilm for mower deck corrosion?

I am sure it's not the issue . But if the brake shoes or drums are contaminated with grease or fluid they will lock . Your build is too new but something to keep in mind. Also make sure shoes slide smoothly on the backing plates.

Chased a rear drum locking issue on my Chevelle for months, replaced everything, Prop valve, rear wheel cyl, lines, etc.. turned out to be contaminated shoes,... They were new with the restoration, but put another new set on and problem was gone.... Amazing how the friction / contamination can make the drums lock up....
 
Time to put this thread to bed. I had three malfunctions which really confused the issue. The first was a faulty brake light pressure switch. It finally failed in the closed position which made it obvious. Problem #2 is an eccentric washer that is mounted behind the secondary shoe. It limits the amount of travel and the manual instructions of how to adjust it, in a word, sucks. I backed it off entirely and cured the just the one brake that locks up. The primary problem was the master cylinder which I had professionally (and expensively) rebuilt. I ordered a rebuild kit from Rock Auto (Raybestos) and took it apart. The piston was wrong for one thing, and all the parts were not installed. Installed the kit, bled the brakes, all is working. Next step is detailing and photographing for Hagerty.
 
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Nothing more aggravating than buying "new" parts that are not right, wrong spec, etc.. even worse when you pay someone to do a job that ends up that way... Gratification comes though when a problem gets solved especially the ones that you've spent time to think and re-think everything has been ruled out!
 
Time to put this thread to bed. I had three malfunctions which really confused the issue. The first was a faulty brake light pressure switch. It finally failed in the closed position which made it obvious. Problem #2 is an eccentric washer that is mounted behind the secondary shoe. It limits the amount of travel and the manual instructions of how to adjust it, in a word, sucks. I backed it off entirely and cured the just the one brake that locks up. The primary problem was the master cylinder which I had professionally (and expensively) rebuilt. I ordered a rebuild kit from Rock Auto (Raybestos) and took it apart. The piston was wrong for one thing, and all the parts were not installed. Installed the kit, bled the brakes, all is working. Next step is detailing and photographing for Hagerty.
Awesome to hear. Glad you got it sorted.
 
I bought some classic insurance and took it on the streets yesterday. My regret is I didn't pay enough attention to the steering gear box before I installed it. Other than steering slop I was happy with the first drive. The rebuilt transmission shifts a little hard, but it shifts. No pulling when applying the brakes. The speedometer works and the measuring tape alignment is pretty good. Got it up to 50! I'm looking forward to my first event to show it off.
 
Some times you can pull some of the slop out of the box with the preload nut/bolt on top just dont go to far or it will get sticky /notchy.
Funny you mention steering , Teaching myself power steering rebuilding. Pumps are simple its the control valve that looks interesting.(57 bird)
 
Just posting to brag. The third time on the street was a trip across town to a show put on by the local Corvette club. Only about a dozen vintage cars, quite a few Hellcats and Chargers, a couple Mustangs and of course Corvettes (disappointed no '64 split windows). Won best of show AND they drew my number for the 50/50 raffle. Winner, winner, chicken dinner.
 
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Best of show May 25, 2024.jpg
 
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