2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake Question

[SLangone]

Lately when I first start my truck up and head to work my brakes seem very sensitive. If I just lightly press the brake pedal the truck makes a jerking motion, which over time does go away. Would anyone know what is causing the issue?



Last year in April I replaced all brakes front and rear including drums/ calipers.



Thanks everyone for the help in advance

 

[wcjp]

When my 96' did this it was bad/loose vacuum line that was letting water into the system. I used very small zip ties at every vacuum line connection. I eventually found the problem. The vacuum lines at the transfer case were bad. Might've been dryrot? I remember cutting out the bad sections or repacing the vacuum line. I recall buying vacuum line extensions from the local autoparts store "Help" section. They were hard white plastic. Then bought some new vacuum line and pieced it together. It might've been the large black connection boot was bad. It has been sometime since I made this repair.



Later I had a separate brake problem. The passenger side brake line went bad. It would create an excessive bulge. Replaced both sides with custom made braided stainless steel lines. For some reason the custom line was cheaper than aftermarket and the dealer.

 

[SLangone]

Alright I will give that a look at. I know that my cruise control vacuum is bad could this affect it as well?

Thanks

 

[JMcCoy]

I believe your truck does have a vacuum brake booster. If you have low vacuum, your cruise control will not work. If you have very low vacuum, your AC will default to defrost. Your signature does not say whether you have 2x4 or 4x4. If you have 4x4, check the lines going to the CAD and transfer case. My line leaving the vacuum pump dry rotted and failed on mine. My truck does it every morning, only on the first stop. After that it is fine. I believe it is just rust on the rotor that forms over night. If it ciontinues after that, there is something wrong. A contaminated brake pad can be grippy or slick when cold and change when it heats up. I would do the free stuff first, like bleeding the brakes, checking for vacuum leaks, and adjusting the rears. Not that the rears are your problem; but since they are drums, you know the D@#N things need adjusting! HAHAHA. When you had your calipers off, did you grease the pins and skuff the rotors? If not I would do so. Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

[SLangone]

Well on my way to Western Maryland my truck started to make grinding noises coming from the front when I would come to a stop. Come to find out that this is what my Driver Side caliper looked liked when removed.
#ad


After replacing in a park while it was pouring. I was back on the road again.

 

[JMcCoy]

WOW! You should consider yourself lucky.

 

[SLangone]

Yea your not kidding the pucker factor was extremely high that weekend. Hopefully it wont happen again.

 

[SLangone]

Am I doing something wrong! I just replaced another caliper 3 weeks (Advance Auto Parts) ago and it has already gone bad. Could my master cylinder be causing this failure, to the driver side front? It's so difficult to remain positive and not break down and buy a new truck! Tomorrow I will also be replacing my filler hose since it has a small leak but I just hope I no longer have this brake problem. Any ideas would really help

 

[fest3er]

Are you saying that caliper and pads were brand new in April of 2010? Did you turn the rotors (or replace them) when you repaired the brakes? How many miles? How much GVW? It is rare that a caliper should do that in few miles, though my R/F caliper did need to be replaced at 36K miles because I didn't expect the pads to wear out that fast. I've otherwise gotten 100s of thousands of miles out of the brakes on my '98.

 

[Jeff Knight]

I have heard of other vehicles where the rubber hose that attaches to the caliper would break down inside not letting the pressure to release. You might look into replacing the hose. Just a thought.



Jeff

 

[SLangone]

On April 15 2010 truck had 156,394 and I replaced all brakes front and rear. On Oct 1 2011 at 177,710 I replaced Front Driver side because of picture above. Then yesterday I replaced driver side again with 179k on her. I have no idea whats going on and the rubber brake hose was replaced on both sides in April 15 2010.

 

[VolsFan]

Are the brakes still very sensitive at startup? While I have not gone through calipers like that, I did have a problem with my brakes locking up when I would pull out of the garage in the morning, it would leave skids in the gravel. Mine ended up being both rear axle seals were shot, leaking fluid onto the shoes. Once it warmed up, I would only be running on front brakes, which is why I went through 3 sets of pads in less than 10k miles. Got new seals and premium shoes, flushed system out with dot 4 fluid and it brakes excellent now

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

To add to all of the previous suggestions, how are the caliper slide pins? If they are sticky you can wear the pads real quick.

 

[SLangone]

Brand new. I can't figure it out. Truck is at the Shop hope they can help on way to drop it off it was pulling left and making it extremely difficult to drive and smoking going less then 15 miles. Brand new caliper, thinking maybe now it's the master cylinder?

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

It would seem if the master cylinder is at fault the pressure would be felt at the right front, too. Do you have anti-lock brakes?

 

[budnate]

I have heard of other vehicles where the rubber hose that attaches to the caliper would break down inside not letting the pressure to release. You might look into replacing the hose. Just a thought.



Jeff

this is the problem on that corner of the truck, the hose makes a check valve inside and holds the brakes on and bleeds off very slowly, make sure you put new lines on both sides when your into the sytem.



B.

 

[SLangone]

I do have ABS on my truck.

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

I do have ABS on my truck.

My first thought would be the brake hose. But if you changed them out during the brake job on 15 APR 10 then the likelyhood of a defective hose is reduced. I would still check it out though, just because Murphy wrote a book, and it keeps with the KISS principle. Following that, I would venture to the various mechanical parts of the deficient system - the left caliper, pins, seals, etc. Since all of that has been changed more than once I would turn to the next area that would isolate the affected components and that may be in the ABS circuit. You may have a faulty or contaminated valve in the ABS controller. The front brakes are independently controlled while the rears are in tandem.