2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake Rotors

[CBeard]

I want to replace my brake rotors with drilled and sloted ones, but am questioning wether I need to buy special brake shoes? Do these rotors and brakes squeal alot and can these rotors be turned? Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

Chris

 

[Regcabguy]

Just say no to drilled rotors.

I want to replace my brake rotors with drilled and sloted ones, but am questioning wether I need to buy special brake shoes? Do these rotors and brakes squeal alot and can these rotors be turned? Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

Chris

I went with Napa's drilled and slotted rotors and experienced less braking performance and they warped in less than 8,000 miles. I'd consider Powerslot's slotted cryo-treated rotors next time. Stay away from drilled. A TDR vendor sells them but I can't remember their name.

 

[VHolloway]

go with power slots cryo

you don't want drilled on a big heavy truck the drilled will crack warp over time

anything auto has a good price on the power slots cryo read up on the power slots cryo / frozen roters thats the way to go with some hawk hp super duty pads

 

[San Felipe Bob]

I've been told not to turn slotted Rotors!

Yes the drilled rotors crack!

Not like you might be lead to think.

The drilled rotors get hair-line cracks around the drilled holes.

I like to run pads that are softer than rather than harder.

Harder pads last longer at the expense of wearing out the rotors.

Softer pads wear quicker (more frequent pad changes).

You might have to call the pad Manufacturer, if your brake pad supplier does not know the hardness of his pads.



Currently I have slotted and drilled rotors on my truck.

Next set will be slotted only.



Any I repeat ANY metal rotor can warp.

If you are heating your brakes enough to warp your rotors, you should thouroghly check your entire brake system!

I had big problems warping rotors!

It turned out to be sticky caliper pins causing the brakes to drag.

I was re-using the rubber bushings and caliper bolts when doing brake jobs.

I 'd lube the re-used parts well with high quality caliper grease.

My brakes would last between 12,000 and 15,000 miles.

The inside pad would be toast!

The outside pad would be 1/4 to 3/8 thick.



I have learned a few things that can help.



1) Keep the Caliper pins well lubed!



Solution:

a) Check them every 3000 miles or sooner if driving offroad or in wet conditions.



2) The caliper bolt rubber bushing slides into the caliper casting.

The Casting gets rusty and puts added pressure on the caliper bolts causing them to stick. (Even when well lubed!)



Solutions:

a) Buy re-built or new calipers.

b) Use a small wheel cylinder hone to clean out the bores.

(see my readers rig gallery for pics)

c) Always use new rubber bushings and caliper bolts.

d) Lube the caliper castings where they ride /slide on the spindles.



3) Your oem rubber brake lines can deteriorate on the inside and cause your brakes to drag. Try stainless lines.



4) Your caliper pistons can also stick in the bores. Even brand new or re-builds.

Thats why EGR sells blueprinted calipers.



I'll add more later.



SFB

 

[Extreme1]

I don't turn rotors, just replace pads. The stock rotors don't last forever up here in the rust belt.

 

[LOtero]

talk to Mark Craig, he will steer you in the right direction. i have his powerslot cryoed and slotted rotors and hawk pads. . great upgrade, no more fade, nice even slow pad wear. you wont regret it.