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I bought Bendix rotors from carparts.com, which is now JC Whitney, for $62 each, this included shipping and no tax, arrived in two days. For pads, Carbomet pads from TDR member Sam Peterson are the best you can get for our Rams.
Merrick, about the only hidden costs may stem from the parts being rusted together. This usually results in just more time, cursing and some penetrating oil. Another cost is if you accidentally pull out the entire axle while removing the rotor/bearing assembly, it can cut the differential seal. A search here will reveal how to solve these problems, the service manual outlines the procedure well. Other than that it's a straight forward job. If you don't get your pads from Sam you should add a set of caliper pins and Silicone brake grease to the price. Sam includes these with the Carbomet pads. A heavy copper or lead headed hammer is the only uncommon tool needed to maybe help the axle shaft out of the bearing and to remove the wheel studs from the rotor.
I'll add to illflem's reply by saying that cursing, an oxyacetylene torch and an impact driver along with six 1/2 drive 9/16 12 point sockets from the unhappy snap on guy who was watching as we beat the living snot out of the front bearing/rotor assembly to get at the rust that the last front rotor job had. Once the rotor's off, all you have to do is hammer out the studs from the front to separate the rotor from the bearing. Use a lug nut just at the top of the threads to prevent you from harming them as you slam away. In reverse, I used a 6X6 that's two feet long standing on its end to position the brake rotor on so I could hammer in the lugs with a steel drift. Gotta hit 'em hard!
Be sure to turn the new rotors before mounting them. They are usually not flat when new, mostly from shipping and metal normalizing after turning at the factory.