Brake rotors?

[CAT 385]

What are the best rotors to buy? Mine have never been turned, i have about 58,000 miles and on my third set of pads. When I put them on I noticed my rotors full of hairline cracks. Time to get new ones. Maybe EGR Slotted??????

 

[Big White Beast]

Mine are worthless at 20K

Due to the extreme weight of my truck (11K lbs) I trashed my rotors at just 20k miles. The heat cracks were so bad they couldn't even be turned out. It looked like my back brakes weren't even working. I went with EGR's drilled rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and shoes. They get installed monday. Hopefully this will help dissapate the heat of stopping the beast. Now I just have to check regularly to make sure the rears stay adjusted.



Is there a way of forcing the rears to take more of the load. I know they proportion them for the light weight truck so they don't lock up. But with my weight it isn't a problem.



Thanks, Garrett

 

[Royal]

Garrett---Get some larger diameter rear brake cylinders. I put larger ones on my 2500 and it made agreat improvement.

 

[Big White Beast]

I thought.......

Those of you with 2500's were putting 3500 cylinders in. Seeings I already have those is there a larger one useable for the 3500??



One of the tech's (Use term loosely) at Dodge said there is a sender that measures height at the back of the truck to determine weight/load. He mentioned unplugging it but would probably set a code. Guess I'll have to break out the manual and see what it's all about.



Garrett

 

[Bigramguy]

I have done the larger wheel cylinders and it makes a huge difference. It would be the first thing to do.



There is a height sensing proportioning valve on the back of the truck. The more you load the truck,the more brake pressure it applies to the rear. You can adjust it up a little bit (don't go to far or it will bind),or bypass it completely. Dodge sells a hose just for this purpose. Bypassing it will not set a code. The valve is only mechanical,no electronics. The Chrysler part number for the bypass hose is 52009575AB. This will give full pressure to the rears and increase stopping power,and make it easier on the fronts. Another way to bypass it is to remove the connecting link and tie the arm in the "up" position. I would use this only to see how it works,and not as a permanent fix.



The larger 1 1/16" wheel cylinders will help on the 2500's,basically upgrading it to what the 3500 already has. I believe if you want to go bigger than that for a 3500,then you will have to get a 1 1/8" cylinder off an older chevy dually (late 70's I think). I know it bolts on,but I think you will have to change the brake line fitting or use an adapter.



Be careful with the 2500's. If you add the larger wheel cylinders,and bypass the valve,it will tend to lock up under hard braking if it is wet,and the truck is unloaded. I also added an adjustable proportioning valve to "tune" the brake balance if needed. It is cab mounted and can be adjusted on the fly,to eliminate that problem.



I tried a set of cross drilled rotors (auto specialty I think),and they had major cracks in them in less than a year. Replaced with bendix replacements,and did the rear brake mods,and they have been fine since. Good front pads help too. I have had good sucess with the bendix fleet series.

 

[Big White Beast]

Got one on order......

They said it will be in tommorow. The part # changed to AC on the end now. It also cost $2 more for that designation. Hopefully this will help and I wont have to go with the larger cylinder. Would prefer not to have to jury rig anything when it comes to braking. Between actually having rear brakes, cross drilled rotors and the kevlar stuff I hope this will help.



Bigramguy: Thanks for the info, that's exactly what I was looking for.



Garrett

 

[Big White Beast]

Now I'm lost....

Which is nothing new.



I have been looking all over my manual and can't find anything about the height proportioning valve. Hopefully when I crawl under the truck it will be apparent. If not, maybe you could give me a hint.



EDIT: OK I crawled under the Beast and the only thing I can see is where the brake line comes from the front and then splits to both rear wheels there is a block. Out of the top of that block is a hose. Not brake line quality just cheap hose and it goes nowhere. It's clipped to the frame and has a cap on it. Has my truck alreay had this valve removed?? The utility bed was on it when I purchased it. I'm wondering if they did something to it.





EDIT: Feel like a one man thread here. OK my truck does not have a proportioning valve. Doesn't look like it came with one either. According to the parts guy at the stealer, the 2500's had them not the 3500's. He evn printed out the exploded diagrams for me. The part # you gave me is for a 3500 brake line period. Looking at the diagrams I can see where it would bypass the proportioning valve. That might be the difference between the AB & AC designations on the end of the part #. Hope this helps anyone else with similar questions. Once again I learn something new every day from the TDR.



Thanks,



Garrett

 

[Bigramguy]

The line you are reffering to is the vent for the rear axle. If you have the valve it would be mounted up on the frame,drivers side,just ahead of the axle. Follow the brake flex line up from the axle and it should go to the valve. It is possible that you don't have it. Or maybe they removed it to install the utility bed ? A lot of body manufacturers will beef up the rear suspension and take off the valve. Or maybe they don't use them on your particular model anymore ? If you don't have it then that is good . Cancel the hose. You could still put the larger wheel cylinders on if you want.

 

[bigbrassmonkey]

In 100k I gone through 5 sets of pads and rotors at $500 ea



they give almost no warning to self destriuction





it is pittifull for d/c to put out such a shabby part

 

[LSMITH]

In a little over 90K miles I am on the second set of pads and the original rotors. The rotors will be good for one more set of pads at least too. There really is nothing wrong with the rotors that come on our trucks, Big White Beast is an unusual case I think at that weight. I have to wonder if some of you are going to brake shops or dealers and doing what they recommend. Dealer wanted nearly $900 to do my brakes all the way around, I did them myself for under $130. Rear shoes were nearly 3/4 of the cost. A little heat check (hairline cracks) is not a big deal at all if it is all cleaned up when the rotors are turned.

 

[xbubblehead]

I would suggest making sure that you routinely adjust your rear brakes by backing up moderately fast and braking hard (rear drum brakes) several times. When I do this (normally in the morning when I'm backing out of my driveway) I see a noticable increased firmness of the brake pedal and I can feel the difference when stopping (I run unloaded; the difference may not be as noticable when loaded).

 

[CAT 385]

Apparently this is a large problem for a lot of people. I really appreciate the reply's. I ahve a 88 gallon transfer tank in my truck plus abount 500 lbs of tools, when loaded down I way about 8500 lbs. Then when I hook on to the trailer w/backhoe I get close to 30k. But I try to not use the brakes unless it is an emergency to keep them cool.