2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake wear/Steering Pulls '98 2500 5.9l

[cduros]

I'm new to TDR, but have owned my stock '98 3/4 4X4 5. 9l since new.

I do a minimal amount of trailering, but lot of stop&go. Have 75K on truck and had to replace brakes every 20-25K, replaced rotors @60K. Is this typical?

Also, have had problems with front end alignment since about 30K. Truck pulls (usually to left) with moderate brake application. Dealer says this is a hard to fix problem. What is the source of the pulling, alignment?, brake proportioner?, etc?. Any recommended aftermarket fixes? Any better than factory pads available?

Thanks

 

[Barry Fuller]

I have a 98 stick shift w/75k - still on original pads and rotors - about 1/2 towing 16k 5th wheel.

It does not pull when driving or braking so can't help there.



Check w/ Sam at -- email address removed -- for some of the best pads at reasonable price. His address is Brake & A/C Supply--415 South Bay Rd NE--Olympia Wa 98506---Phone 360/357-4958. "We can also take a credit card---Thanks Sam "



Bear

 

[dseabaugh]

Mine did the same thing. I took to various dealers many times, printed tsb's etc. and finally gave up on them. Brought it home took it apart, found the rear brakes were doing next to nothing. changed to one ton wheel cylinders. haven't had to replace front brakes since. I also found where the calipers slide that the slides were machined into a taper so that as the pads wore they got tighter and tighter to the point the would not fully release and would eat up the brakes and pull. ground them where they can't bind any more (parrallel, no taper as they are supposed to be) and no more pull. Almost like having to build your own truck to get it right. Before I was now I am but having to rebuild a truck under warranty to get it right still makes me

 

[Steve Campbell]

I just checked my brakes...

when ever I switch from winter to summer tires (or visa versa) I take the front calipers off and clean and re-lube (I also adjust the rears at the same time). I measured the front pads at 15,700miles and got curious at 68, 300 because of apparent lack of wear... ... . ... ... in 52,600 miles I had worn the front pads an average of slightly less than . 050 (fifty thousandths). The only other mitigating factor is... ... I use my exhaust brake a lot.



With a simple twice-yearly cleaning/relubing (which I had never done on an ongoing basis before)... ... I am tremendously happy with the brakes on my truck.

 

[TowPro]

my 98 2wd was the same way. My inside drivers side pad always wore facter then the rest also. I never had the brake pull (that I noticed). I always used Performance Friction Carbon Metalic pads, at 94K miles the front rotors were . 010" under specs and would not pass inspection next July.



When I put the exhaust brake on front brake wear just about stopped!



Like others here have said, the rear brakes do not self adjust tight enough to be worth a crap. Dodge recomends adjusting the rear brakes every oil change. Just make sure you don't adjust the rear brakes to tight they drag, that will cause heat which cracks the brake shoes.



Just keep adjusting the rear, and keep PFCM pads on the front and rotor life will be longer. Besides PFCM pads have a life time warrantee. I have 2 sets so I can always have a set ready to install.



Nobody is 100% sure, but I think the 98 2500 with the 8800lb option already had the same size wheel cylenders as the 3500.

Originally posted by cduros

I'm new to TDR, but have owned my stock '98 3/4 4X4 5. 9l since new.

I do a minimal amount of trailering, but lot of stop&go. Have 75K on truck and had to replace brakes every 20-25K, replaced rotors @60K. Is this typical?

Also, have had problems with front end alignment since about 30K. Truck pulls (usually to left) with moderate brake application. Dealer says this is a hard to fix problem. What is the source of the pulling, alignment?, brake proportioner?, etc?. Any recommended aftermarket fixes? Any better than factory pads available?

Thanks

 

[Mesenbrink]

The 98 2500 4x4 with 8800 GVW already has the larger wheel cylinders. Check and see if you have a load sensing proportioning valve on the rear axle. I got rid of mine per the tsb and it made a big difference. If you want to see what it will be like just undo the linkage and zip tie the lever up. As far as the front brakes and the pull goes I tried everthing and the only thing that worked was to install a new set of callipers and pads. I think thry were $65. 00 a side from Car Quest. They have been on for a year and my truck still stops nice and straight.

 

[Dheadington]

brake pull

I had same problem with brake pull to left . Pulled rotors lubed slides and pins adjusted rear brakes and would last 500-1000 miles and would start pulling hard left. Finally at whits end called EGR brakes and did upgrade with larger rear wheel cylinders, rear carbon kevlar shoes, new front rotors, carbon kevlar pads, and new s/s brake hoses they have been on for aprox 3500 miles and was the best thing I have done for truck no more pulling and truck stops straight and better.

 

[C. Harlan]

Mine pulls sometimes, and other times, it does not. I can only get 5k-10k out of my pads, due to the Ranch Hand front end replacement, and pulling some trailers with no brakes... where s the rear proportoning valve? I still have the original shoes on the rear end, and never get any braking out of them...

If you want to see what it will be like just undo the linkage and zip tie the lever up.

Where is this lever at?? Would appreciate some replies!



-Chris-

 

[Dheadington]

rear brakes

Look on front side of rear axle on left side just off center. Follow brake line from left rear wheel and valve will be there