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Brakes 2005 4X4 Quad Cab: Question regarding Brake pad drag on front disc rotors.

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Tow Ratings, 2008 Big Horn

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What is normal drag on front disc brake rotors? While I was swapping out my front shocks (wheels removed) and was inspecting front end components, I noticed what seemed excesive resistance while trying to rotate the rotors. I realize there needs to be some, but it took nearly two hands to turn them (while grabbing the studs). Both sides require about the same effort to turn ( about 10 ft/lbs of torque). Is this normal? My truck: 2005 4X4 Quad cab, all stock, 6 speed manual, with

285/70R 17 tire size. Thanks much gentlemen. (This is my first time using any forum - hope I didn't mess up)
 
It's a good question and you received a good answer from a real Dodge mechanic but it's posted in the wrong forum. It should have been posted in the Gen III other than engine and transmission forum.
 
Thanks gentlemen for your help - that drag has to have some effect on MPG. Would be nice if lock out hubs were in the picture - Just don't have an extra $2000. 00 laying around right now. Back in 1973 I bought a new Dodge Power Wagon - it came with Warn hubs. Things change in the name of cost and convenience. Thanks again.
 
I had a 70s burnt orange 4+4 I do not remember what year it was but it had the warm lock outs also. I had it order with post iv track front and back it never got hung up. I worked in the oil fields on drilling rigs. That was how we got to the rigs in mud and snow. That was the good years.
 
I was in the clutch and brake business for a number of years and here's the simple hint I used to give customers... put your truck on a very slight grade... and release the brake... if under its own weight it will start to creep and roll, than its most likely OK... . I agree with bob your turning a lot of stuff when you have a 4x4...

My other personal test is to roll off the freeway and into a rest stop without the brakes... climb out to test the temperature of the tires and shoot each of the rotors... and usually with road temperatures they are always under 110*, if there was a drag one rotor would be warmer/hot compared to the other 3... . BTW when I pull my 5er, every rest stop is a test of all the tires and hubs. .
 
I have had issues with the caliper slides that allow the caliper to self center. Used an inappropriate lube, it dried out and caused a little caliper hang. Should have cleaned them every time a new set of pads are put in and used a hi-temp caliper guide lube. Used anti-seize, it dried out. Then got some packets of lube with my Hawk brake pads. No problems since.
 
JBallou, you make a great point... . I use a simple flapper wheel on a die grinder or cordless drill and use the flapper wheel to clean all the matting and sliding surfaces... I use a product called sil-glide... it comes out of the tube in a 1/8" ribbon like toothpaste... 1/4" of this on the mating surfaces once they are clean to prevent rust and to lubricate the surfaces...
 
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