2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brakes are breakin' me$$$$

[RMillik]

I have a 1999 4WD Automatic Std cab (2500) with only 104K on the odometer. I just had the third (counting factory) set of rotors and calipers installed. I got 74K out of the factory set and only 30K out of the second set. The brake shop tells me this is not unusual! I say BS!!! I occasionally tow an 18' bass boat (no trailer brakes) but do not jackrabbit and brake hard. Still have the original shoes on the rear. Two questions: 1-is this real common and 2-are there aftermarket rotors available that will have more than . 030 "meat" on them?

 

[Joe G.]

The brakes take some TLC on these trucks to make them last. I have the original rotors and calipers on my '95. One rotor has a small rock grove, otherwise both are in good shape. Runout is still well within the specs. My first set of pads didn't last long. But since then I have been taking care of them better. I have 228K miles on my truck. The 3rd set of pads are worn about a third.



I've replaced one set of caliper piston seals. No leaks, but I thought that after 200K miles is was about time.



I have an exhaust brake which reduces the number of times I have to use the service brakes to slow down.



Most of the problem with these brakes is that the calipers stick. I smoothed the slide surfaces on the caliper mounts with a file. I replaced the quide pins. I used crocus cloth to polish the new guide pins before I installed them. I use Sta-lube Hi-temp Disc Brake bearing grease to lube the slides and the guide pins. I got it at NAPA. Nasty looking stuff.



Every oil change I pull the guide pins one at a time to clean and lube them. I also inspect for any wear damage. I put some grease in calipers where the guide pins go. I've never got any grease on the pads doing this. In fact, I don't see how grease can get from the guide pins to the pads, but I check for that anyway.



Since I started doing this my truck stops in a straight line even in panic stops from 70 MPH (deer on US101). My brake pad wear is very even too.



I flush and change my brake fluid whenever it gets darker than I like.



I replaced my rear wheel cylinders with the ones for the 3500. That was about 150K miles ago I think. No leaks or other problems with them.

 

[Royal]

If you don't have the large wheel cylinders on the rear axel, I would highly recommend them. Best $30. 00 bucks and half hour labor you can spend.

 

[Extreme1]

Joe G has the brake maintenance schedule for maximum brake life and minimum brake problems. The first thing to do is to adjust the rear brakes up, they probably aren't even being used.



Next, don't turn the rotors every time you get new pads. I'll bet the service center you're taking them to likes to replace instead of turn them. If they do turn them THEY MUST BE TURNED ON THE TRUCK.



Most places will argue with you and tell you that it's fine to turn them off the truck. It's very dificult to get them true off the truck, then it takes another turn to get them true and you start to run out of rotor.

 

[DHawthorne]

Last changed the front brakes on the truck at 53,000. Turned both rotors. Used a Warner Brake Pad. $ 80. 00 from the shop that did the brake job. Warrantied

for life, they say. Could not pass it up.



The truck now has 116,000 on it and 63,000 on the front pads. Looked at them last Friday. Still have 1/4" of pad left. Rotors still looking good.



The last post about the rear brakes

working does help the situation. If you have a auto use the Emergency Brake a couple times a week. That will keep the rears tuned up, so to speak.



Dave

 

[midwestdually]

take it to MIDAS and hopefully someone will finally get to screw them over on the whole "lifetime replacement warranty"

 

[Rob Thomas]

103,000 miles on the original rotors, and only one set of pads replaced, never turned the rotors, just cleaned them up with Scotch-Brite pads while doing the pad swap @77,000 miles. Almost 30,000 miles on Sam Petersons pads and have plenty of pad left. BTW, I tow alot, and don't have an exhaust brake.





Rob

 

[y-knot]

Do yourself a favor, and look at the EGR brakes site. I never had a brake problem and my rotors and pads were about 50% when I threw them away (46,000 miles). I new they would need work so, and I wanted better brakes, so I called EGR, I went with there pads, shoes, lines, fluid, ect and have been very pleased since. The back brakes actually do something now, and althought I didn't know it then, I know now how good/great brakes feel. Good luck.

 

[Jack in Alaska]

Brakes

Had an excellent Sam Peterson brake job last winter at 97k miles. I am now at 120k miles and brakes are doing fine. Heading out on a 14k trip in 3 weeks.



I highly recommend his shop for brake jobs. He is a perfectionist, very good at his trade and reasonable price.