Brakes, fluids, bushings?

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I am in the process of replacing my rear drums, shoes, hardware kit, axle seals, bearings on my 92. The rear brakes are getting pretty soft (they do need replacing) and brake light is now starting to come on (fluid level is fine). Since going the distance, Thinking of going with Amsoil's Synthetic 75w - 90w gear lube. Is this the proper weight I should be using? How much should be in the rear end, I know till it dribbles out the axles a little to lube bushings, but is that 1 gallon, 1. 5 or more? Wondering if I should get 1 gallon, 2. 5 gallon, not 55 gallons I hope... lol. Do I need to be concerned about buying the stuff from Mother Mopar to help the chatter? Best to do figure 8's after filled to get everything lubed? What type of bearings should I buy since I haven't done that yet also? Easy to replace by myself or do they need to be pressed in? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated once again. Hopefully once completed, won't need to touch for a couple of years.

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Scott
92 Ram, Bright White, Club Cab, LE package, 4x4, 130K, 3. 54 gears, Auto, Extra transmission Cooler under bed, 285x75x16 Cooper Discovery A/T, 16X10 American Racing rims, Rancho RS9000 all around, Tekonsha Brake Controller, Running boards, Lund Sunvisor, Marker lights, Lund bug deflector, Tonneau cover, Full cap, DynoMax muffler, 5" Chrome tip, 16 cm Turbo, Isspro Boost gauge, 23 lbs Boost, Pump Adjustments, Sprayed in Bed-liner, Rubber mat

'SHAKES, RATTLES & GOES'

 

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The manual specifications call for sae 70W-90. The lubricant capacity for the Dana 70 axle is 3. 31 litre or 7 pints, and the Dana 60 axle is2. 84 litre or 6 pints, so a gallon should be plenty. I think our trucks have the Dana 60,(single wheel, Dana 70 is a dual Wheel), check the tag on the housing cover to be shure. If you have limited slip, an additive, available from the dealer must be used. As for the synthetic lube the supplier of the product should be able to cross reference the best product for the aplication. To change the wheel bearings, you must remove the axles, recomend craking (loosening) the bolts before jacking. After the bolts are removed the axle comes straight out. Ther is a little clip, that locks the axle nut that needs to be removed, and then the axle nut can come off. You will need a special 2-9/16 socket, that has rounded corners, should be available from an auto parts store (snap-on part# ANS1928A). You can probably get the nut off with a large pair of channel locks, but you need the socket to properly set the bearings upon re-assembly.
When removing the bearing shells,I use a brass drift, place through the hub to drive the out. The hub must be supported on a solid surface, a large bench vise with the jaws opened to clear the bearing works well. Just tap gently with a 2 lb hammer, while working the punch around the bearing, so as to drive it out evenly. To replace the bearing shell, lightly oil the hub bore and bearing shell, place it on a solid surface, and tap in using a disk of hardwood (or brass/aluminum) just a bit smaller than the bearing. Wipe the bore before driving in the seal, the recomended seal is from Chicago Rawhide, check the archives for a post with the part number. Lube the bearings and oil seal with the same lube that will be used to fill the axle, you could use grease but it may not be compatable with synthetic lubricant.
To set the bearings upon assembly the axle nut is torqued to 120-140 ft. lbs, while rotating the wheel, then backed off 1/3 of a turn (120 dgrees), then replace the lock. A few things to look for when doing the rear brakes, check that the parking brake cables are free, also check the operating linkeage for the parking brakes (inside drums) mine was stuck on and the adjuster would not work.

torque lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs
torue axle bolts to 70 ft. lbs

NEIL

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Neil Copeman 92 D250,LE,limited slip, 16cm turbo housing, Isspro gauges, factory tach option, Lear cap, DC crankdown tire carrier
Hadley air horns, Stealhorse leather seats, e-mail (home): <bombedcummins@sympatico. ca> (link at top is work adress)

 

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Scott I have not heard of any bearing failures in the rear ends. I would expect the bearing are reuseable, set the pre-load on them and back off the nut( I go 90 degrees) and check for any play.
I would recommend a MAG-HYTEC differental cover. They provide more gear oil capacity and have a dip stick to check for proper oil level.
The Amsoil 75-90 is fine, I have used it for many years in my 92.
Gene
92 350 4x4 (191,000 miles)

 

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NuttyMopar, the axle seal part number that I used is CR 28746. Do a search for rear axle seals under "1st Generation Ram Forum(1989 - 1993)" and you will find a number of postings that deal with axle seals. There is some good information there.
Good luck,
Al

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92-LE,Cummins,Tach,4x4,5spd,3. 54,Borgeson steering shaft,Isspro Pyro & Boost, 16cm2

 

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Well, the brake drum replacement went rather smoothly. Only think that I noticed was different was the old drum had a Bearing dust/liquid cap over it. Looks like a big dish that the bearings/hub would actually sit in. It was opened in the back so I don't think it actually kept out any liquid from the drums. The new hub was a tad smaller (1/16" or less) so it didn't allow me to use this dust cap. The bearings and hub fit just fine after torqueing down the studs. Thanks for the size of the socket. I have always wondered what size and always used the hammer/screwdriver trick to get it off and on. Once tightened so drum doesn't wobble, backed off a hair. New drums, shoes, hardware kit, e-brake cable all seem to work nicely. I have noticed on the left rear brake that the self-adjuster keeps coming off the star wheel. This has happened each time I have checked it. Still have the RIGHT rear drum to replace once that comes in the factory. Thanks for all your help.

 

[Archive]

GeneH,
When I replaced a leaking seal several months ago, there was some pitting in the bearings. I have purchased all new bearings and seals and have them in my garage. Was going to install but have not been home much lately. Now the front brakes have taken a dump so I'll be doing those first.

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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, PW Injectors,Auto w/4. 10 rear with limited slip, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 31/2" Exhaust, 5K air bags, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, 146K

[This message has been edited by paccool (edited 11-13-2000). ]