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Brakes

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Dually Fenders

Power Loss

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I have brake problems. I replaced front pads, calipers, and rotors. I now only have 1/2 pedal. I know it is time for the rear brakes also as the pedal was never in the same place. Sometimes high, sometimes low. I tried to bleed the rears but nothing would come out. Even with the bleed screw totally off. What could cause no fluid to come out? Bad wheel cylinders? The master cylinder has been replaced and has fluid in it. The front brakes did have air in them but I think I got it all out. I'm kind of stumped along with frustrated. I couldn't find anyone who could turn rotors that size. Long weekend of running around.

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90 W250, 5-speed, isspro gauges, 16 cm2, K&N, Borgeson shaft, JRE 3" exhaust, Banks Intercooler, Lucas injectors
 
Matt,
The brakes on our trucks are one of those things that dodge thought of last... oh yeah we have to put brakes on these things!

I have found that you must follow the service manual, and have to work the air out textbook style. Do what they tell you to in that order, and when the pedal is still not up to your standards, retry in the same order. Air seems to get trapped everywhere, and bleeding takes time.

Last point, my dad bought a pressure bleeding system, that works nice for these things. Instead of having to crack the bleeder open and shut, they give you a container and hose that has a check-valve in it, all you have to do is watch, reaallly cool #ad

Good Luck

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1992 W-350 Club Cab Dually 3. 5" Jardine, Swiss cheese air box
1992 W-350 8' contractors dump with 3. 5"BD exhaust, 16cm^2 housing, DI pyro&boost
Russell
 
I do a lot a brake jobs on my 92. It works best when I have new drums(not turned down much) and adjust them as tight as I can without excess dragging of the shoes. I drive them awhile and adjust the rears again. I know it is time for rears when my pedal goes down to far.

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Mark Faught, 92 ext cab service truck and a 84 crew cab one ton dually with a 91 cummins and NV 4500.
 
I think fastmark nailed it, if the rear brakes are worn or not adjusted up all the way you won't get good pedal no matter what!!! That's been my experience.

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93,CC,4X4,LE,Auto/3. 54. Banks intercooler/exhaust,Gauges(Pyro/Boost/Tach. ),K&N,"PW" injectors, 14cm2 wastegated turbo, "timed" pump, CUMMINS CHROME engine kit,Walker "flow-thru" muffler,Emerald Grn. w/ SS running board,Grizzly Grill Guard.
 
Matt, I think you are on the right trail,there is no hyd. pressure going to the rear brakes. Have someone pump the pedal and hold,crack the line at the master cylinder. If it is ok,go to the next component
Check for fluid flow in and coming out till you find the restriction. I might would be thinking the problem could be the valve near
the rear of the truck. (anti-lock brake control)
 
Matt,
Seeing as you don't have any fluid coming out of the wheel cylinder, my experience would lead me to suspect the RWAL valve on the left frame rail above the reat axle. Check to see if you have fluid going to this valve. We used to do enough of these valves to justify keeping one on the shelf. We now stock a couple of the second gen ones instead.
Hope this helps.

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89 w250, 47rh trans, cleaned up exhaust, Dynomax bullet muffer, 3" lift
 
I just changed the master cylinder on my truck and I had the same problem. I had to take off the new master cylinder and bench bleed it a second time as I had not gotten all the air out of halve the cylinder. After I did that I was able to get fluid to come out the rear bleeders. Mark

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1990 4x4 one ton single rear wheel, banks package, intercooled.
 
Matt---Here is something to try. You can clamp off both front brake hoses and the rear hose. Do this with something that will not damage the outer layer of the hose. You can use vice grips with something between the jaws. It doesn't take a lot of squeeze on the hose to shut off the flow. With all hoses blocked push on the brake pedal one time. If the pedal is at the top everything from the hoses up to the master cylinder is OK. If pedal is at top un clamp the rear hose and push pedal down again once. see how far the pedal drops. Then clamp off the rear hose again and un clamp the front hoses. again push the pedal down once. By seeing where the most movement was will tell you where the trouble is. It is not as complicated as it sounds. If you still can't come up with something, call me 360/357-4958 during the day 8. 30 to 5. 30---sam
 
Great ideas. Thanks. I won't be able to try them out until tomorrow night. I did see the rear wheel antilock valve in the service book so I'll try that. I'm also pricing parts for the rears. I'm going for the 3" brakes and larger wheel cylinders this time. I will probably end up getting new drums as I'm sure no one in the area will be able to turn them because of their size.
Sam, sounds like a great idea. I'll give that a try after I change the rears if I still have a problem. The fronts bleed fine but the backs can't even hold when I'm putting the lug nuts on tight. I know the rears are getting bad but I was hoping to hold off until next month after I recover from the $325 in parts I just spent on the front brakes.
 
You should not have any trouble finding someone who can turn your drums. Most any shop has the right stuff, even Auto Zone.

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Mark Faught, 92 ext cab service truck and a 84 crew cab one ton dually with a 91 cummins and NV 4500.
 
Try locating a truck brake shop in your area to get drums and rotors turned. I live near Memphis and when I needed my drums and rotors turned I took them to Memphis Brake. All large cities should have shops like this available to service truck fleets. Memphis Brake operates a fleet of 1 ton flatbed trucks with overhead hoists that can pick up and carry any type or size drum or rotor. They pick up complete assemblies of dual wheels and drums off of tractor trailers and carry them to their shop where the entire assembly is put on the drum/rotor turning machine.

These guys do this day in and day out and I really trust them more than some off the street counterman who might turn a couple a day.

Check the yellow pages under truck parts and supplies.




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92 D250 Auto Trans-Currently stock except for TCI special torque convertor. Now adding 16cm turbo housing, complete 4" exhaust, tachometer, pyrometer, and transmission temperature gauge. Injectors in the near future.
Also have 1984 Volvo D260 with inline 6 diesel made by Volkswagen.
 
I had a chance to look at the problem with a more sane mind then 2200 on a Sunday night. Both of the rear brakes were way out of adjustment. I adjusted them and now I have a great brake pedal feel. Once again, thanks for all the advice.
 
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