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Brakes

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Rear diff pinion seal leak

Heat woes continue...

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So based on what I read about it ensures I got new fluid through system I'm not sure I need this. I bought a gallon of fluid and watched the fluid color change in the vaccum bleeder we used from a dingy brake fluid to a nice golden colored fluid.

And then there is this statement...

Remember that this is the process for FLUSHING AND FILLING YOUR ENTIRE SYSTEM. If you are only replacing a caliper or performing any other operation where you are simply trying to bleed vapor and/or used fluid from the wheel-end components (like after a hard day of lapping,) you need only to bleed the brakes as you normally would...ala Step #1 above.

There is no reason to cycle the ABS if all you are simply trying to do is get vapor out of the calipers. For this reason, if you flush and fill your system only once per year, the rest of the time you will not need to perform the ABS cycling procedure…or worry about the service tool at all.
Let me try to help.. did you replace the master cylinder? If so how do you verify no air got into the ABS module? Sure it it was just calipers the tool would not be needed, however, you continue to have problems.. so I'm offering a possibile solution. If you had a leak, that would be obvious, so I'm assuming no leaks, and lines or hoses won't give you the sponge pedal unless there is a leak.. so air is possible.. one more possible, a bad master cylinder... Yes, my first ever job was a master cylinder replacement.. the remanufactured unit had some metal shavings and needless to say, had to be replaced as well.

 
I'm not arguing against your theory but I will for a fact tell you I am not buying a $500'ish dollar scan tool for a brake job that is a one off.
 
This will be my goal tomorrow on the way home and then on Tuesday I'll bleed them again

If you really feel the need to cycle the valves, but do not have access to a service tool (or if the dealer is not willing to loan theirs) you COULD just replace Step #2 above with "go driving and slam on the brakes a few times to make the ABS work" to purge the used fluid from the unit. This is usually NOT the most efficient nor socially responsible solution, though it seems to work just fine. You still need to bleed the car a second time, but it saves you from procuring the service tool.
 
I'm not arguing against your theory but I will for a fact tell you I am not buying a $500'ish dollar scan tool for a brake job that is a one off.




That $500 Autoengnity scanner does MUCH more then bleed the ABS module...if you are in fact planning on keeping your truck for a long life, then it might well be worthy investment, PARTICULARLY if you do your own wrenching.

Alternatively, you CAN engage the ABS module "manually" by attempting to do full skid power stops in a SAFE location and then bleeding the brakes afterwards. Once or twice would be enough.

Or I guess you could pay $150 to the dealer to bleed the ABS module for you, but THAT would in fact be a one off.
 
That $500 Autoengnity scanner does MUCH more then bleed the ABS module...if you are in fact planning on keeping your truck for a long life, then it might well be worthy investment, PARTICULARLY if you do your own wrenching.

Alternatively, you CAN engage the ABS module "manually" by attempting to do full skid power stops in a SAFE location and then bleeding the brakes afterwards. Once or twice would be enough.

Or I guess you could pay $150 to the dealer to bleed the ABS module for you, but THAT would in fact be a one off.
Well said. I bought the tool and both Chysler and GM packages because I use it on 4 cars and do my own work. It's very useful and a huge help for all kinds of diagnostic functions. As many computers as we have on these cars, seems it only makes sense to have a way to communicate with them for maintenance... sure the dealership wants you to only come to them, but saving even a couple of dealership visits pays for the tool pretty fast.

 
I'm not arguing against your theory but I will for a fact tell you I am not buying a $500'ish dollar scan tool for a brake job that is a one off.
If you were near by I'd use mine to help you.. perhaps you can ask around. I realize these things are expensive.. but having 4 newer cars, for me it's worth having and does much more than cycle ABS.

 
i did brakes on my 06 2 months ago. i did replace ft calipers. the old school way was do the farthest corner first.it took about 2 quarts to clear it all up. the fronts took little longer.all went well.
 
Final update on this issue, I got some repalacement calipers from Autozone and returned the ones installed on 12/3/17. Both had seeping past the pistons, the passenger side had one that was a bigger leak then the seepage but still left no trace on the wheels or ground.

The brakes now perform as they should and only required a couple old school bleeding cycles after the brake system gravity bled them during install.
 
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Final update on this issue, I got some repalacement calipers from Autozone and returned the ones installed on 12/3/17. Both had seeping past the pistons, the passenger side had one that was a bigger leak then the seepage but still left no trace on the wheels or ground.

The brakes now perform as they should and only required a couple old school bleeding cycles after the brake system gravity bled them during install.
Thanks for the update. A bad rebuild.. just like my first ever car repair that had a bad master cylinder. Years later a rebuilt axle/caliper where the totally forgot 2 of the 4 pistons! Glad to hear you have it all working finally.

 
I had the dealer do this job a couple of time ($100).
Found out the price was much higher after I discovered they slopped brake fluid on the qtr panel.
I just do it myself now and don't worry about the abs.
 
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