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I have a '90 250, 4 x 2 which I just bought a few months ago. I would like to check the rear brakes, but I have never worked on brakes where you need to remove the drive shaft. :confused: Therefore; Do I need to remove the differential cover and remove some kind of clip? Is this somethinng that requires special tools?

I'm going to drive from NY to AZ soon and want to have the truck (Old Betsy) :D in good shape
 
It's a full floating rear end and the axles are held in place at the outside end. (You said drive line but you mean axles). I suggest that before you start you get a shop manual-will help you a lot.
 
A shop manual is a must, I agree. I bought a Chilton # 20402, which covers your truck, including the diesel. I used it when I repaired my rear brakes.

You will need an axle nut socket, but the size may depend on the capacity of the axle. I bought a 2 9/16 socket and I have the 6200 # axle. The drums and cylinder size also varies (7/8", 13/16",1"), so I suggest you disassemble and measure stuff before you order parts. It took me s few days to get all the right stuff for mine, and none of it agreed with the VIN or the info on the door jam sticker. Perhaps the axle was changed, I don't know.

My brakes were so bad when I bought the truck, I had to replace the drums, as one was beyond turning. Once everything is apart, replace it all, then you can forget about it for a long time.

Good luck.
 
1-Ton Brakes

If you are going to do a brake job, consider going up to 1-ton rear brakes. They are 3" wide and help a lot with a load. I did it on my truck and had no problems. Just make sure to take everything, especially the anchor bolt and adjusters, apart and never sieze them. Check out my web site for more details on the 3" brake conversion.



http://home.earthlink.net/~sweeten1/1992_trucks.htm



Jeremy
 
Jeremy, I replaced my brakes last year and was going to upgrade. When I took the drums off there were 3" brakes installed. Went to the local NAPA store and got new brakes. I knew the counter person and told him I wanted 3" wide shoes rather than 2. 5" - he looked it up and said the truck had 3" from the factory???:confused:



Are the 92 and 93 trucks different from each other or did my guy screw up when he was checking parts? Not a big deal but just curious.
 
3" Brakes

Stan,



From previous posts, etc. I have learned that there was a TSB to upgrade the 1st generation 3/4 ton trucks to 3" brakes. Of course I don't know too many people who take their trucks to Chrysler for a brake job. Anyway, when I went to NAPA, they showed 2. 5" brakes for 3/4 tons and 3" brakes for 1 tons. I ended up getting the 1 ton setup, shoes and 1-1/8" wheel cylinders. I would guess that maybe a previous owner updated your truck or NAPA knew of the TSB. I have no idea if there is a difference between the '92 and '93 factory rear brake setup. The larger brake setup sure works well and is a good upgrade.



Jeremy
 
The shop manual is a good idea. Like others I hope you meant axle and not drive shaft. One of the first things you'll need is the large socket to remove the two nuts inside the axle tube. Also there is a torque requirement that'll come from the shop manual. I have a newer 98 and the drums just slide off (like a 1/2 ton, surprise to me). Be it Chrylser, Chilton's, or other aftermarket book get it. There's also a pair of brake pliers that makes removing and installing springs 10 times easier. Piece of advise, if you haven't worked on brakes much, take the tires, rims, and drums off both sides but work on one side at a time. This way you can have a reference to look at. Also, to remove the axles all you have to do is to remove the 8 to 10 bolts around the axle head (about 3/8 ot 7/16 inch). The axle will just slide out leaving the drum in place. Next you'll need to remove the two nuts that are inside the axle tube. Then the drum can be removed.
 
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Hey bud, if you want the numbers to convert the nuts and lock over to old style spicer, e-mail me. Much easier to set preload!!!!!!Tim:) :)
 
Hadn't heard about the TSB Jeremy. Thats probably what happened. The guy I got the truck from used Dodge facilities quite a lot from the records he gave me. The cylinders were also 1 1/8" already so the entire change had been made.
 
;) I have finally completed the break job. I did get the manual; Chilton actually. They did forget to mention the cones and how to remove them. In a moment of frustration I hit the axel with the ball pin hammer where the bolt comes through the axel and eureka! Out it came flying. Whom ever said that violence does not lead to any good surely did not know what they were talking about! WARNING! make sure your face is not in front of the axel while expressing your anger. You could lose an eye! :--) Nevertheless, it is a good idea to wear safety glasses when working.



Thanks for all your help. By the way do you know anything about accessory belts? Check out my posting.



Joel
 
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