BRAKES

[Silver Streak]

Help! No brakes... well almost
I have a 96 Ram 2500 and I tow a 34' 5th wheel (16,000 lbs). The trouble is I can't stop fast enough if I have to. Even when I'm not towing the truck stops just OK but if I have to stop fast it skids real easy. There was a TSB to upgrade in 96 to upgrade the rear brake which I had done. I have been through a pair of rotors and 3 sets of front pads and 2 sets of rear brakes and had to replace the rear drums. I only have 63K miles on the truck. I don't drive that fast especially when towing, and I do use the exhaust brake. Does the cross drilled or slotted rotors with the carbon kevlar pads work? Any other ideas. I need advise, please help.

96 RAM 2500 5 speed, 410 rear end, Bosch 230 Injectors, TST Plate #5, 16 cm Turbo Housing, BD 3000 Govenor Spring Kit, K&N Filter, 4" Exhaust System, No CAT, Horton Fan, Mag Hy-Tec Diff Cover, 12" Dual Disc clutch, BD Exhaust Brake

 

[LandShark]

Silver: WOW! Are you sure the brakes work on your 5th wheel? Most people get 40-50,000+ miles on front pads and 100,000 plus on rear shoes. Rotors and drums should last well over 100,000 miles and with your exhaust brake, even more.

Rather than looking at doing brake mods I think you should examine what you have and figure out what's wrong. Find a good brake shop that will inspect every component of the brake system. Don't start repairs until everything is inspected and you have a plan in place for fixing the entire system.

------------------
1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3300 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters (used only with the camper on), K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
108,000 miles and counting.

 

[Cooker]

I'm with LandShark. Look to see if something is wrong first before trying improve things.

Ryan

 

[illflem]

Silver,ditto the above. I pull heavy flatbed loads with my 3500 continously the brakes were wearing rapidly also until I starting adjusting the trailer brakes manually,apparently the self adjusters in my Dexter axles are just as bad as Dodge's. I can get at least ten clicks of the tralier brake star wheels a week during max hauling. Adding a E-brake helped more than anything else though. Your wear isn't normal.

BTW,welcome to the TDR. My mother lived in Seal Beach,down by the boardwalk(sidewalk now?)from '70-'85,did know the area well,nice town.

------------------
95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

[danandamy]

I'm thinking along the same lines as the above posts. Sounds like your truck is doing all the work. It may be something as simple as your brake controller's "level" (not power) setting isn't adjusted properly. The Dodge brakes do pretty much suck, but when I'm pulling my 33' travel trailer, it almost feels like it stops better than when I'm not. You should be able to ease onto the brake peddal and feel the trailer start to brake before you ever even start applying any real pressure to the truck's brakes.

Daniel

------------------
95 2500 SLT Laramie 3. 54, automatic,Herculiner bed liner, JVC cd out of factory infinity system, southwest grill gaurd (a favorite amongst the deer population), K&N chunked, AFC adjusted, dual straight exhaust out of "gutless" cat, Geno's dual EGT/boost gauge, TST #6 plate slid all the way forward, AFC housing slid all the way forward, silencer ring removed
"Don't be scared V8's, it's only a 6 cylinder"

 

[zzman]

Silver Streak, did you mention a re-call for upgrade the brakes?
I have a similar problem with my brakes. It seems that my brakes [left rear]will lock up the first time I use them. The petal feels kinda soft then all of a sudden it locks up.
After a couple times, they work normal. I use to think the parking brake cable was sticking, couldn't find any signs tho.
Is there a common problem with my truck brakes as well? I was wondering if that re-call was good on 97 trucks too?
Any help here would be appreciated much.
Thanks

------------------
97 3500 SLT REDext cab duelly p/u 5sp 3:54 2wd 245/75R16
3" straight exhaust stock torque plate slid full foward star wheel tweeked
105,000 miles still with plenty of ZOOM... ZOOM... ZOOM

RON Z

 

[Timinator]

ZZMAN,
Are you leaking any brake fluid or gear lube from the rear end? That would cause sticking until it burns off.

 

[chrgr446]

I had the same problem, felt like the parking brake was sticking. The axle sael was leaking and swelling the brake shoe.
Changed both and problem went away!

 

[zzman]

No, no fluid leaking.
That sounds serious there.

I can't tell if the right side locks up.
It doesn't feel like it. I'll get my wife to
watch for that next time.
I don't drive it too much right now, and not
in the rain. Last thunder storm I ran into
another pick up at a red light. Messed my
bumper up now.

I'll be checking them brakes out when good weather
hangs out long enough.

Ron Z

------------------
97 3500 SLT REDext cab duelly p/u 5sp 3:54 2wd 245/75R16
3" straight exhaust stock torque plate slid full foward star wheel tweeked
105,000 miles still with plenty of ZOOM... ZOOM... ZOOM

RON Z

 

[HerbW]

Silverstreak, Is there any Bonito anymore at Ray Bay?

------------------
'96 4x4 Dodge Cummins Truck,Smitty built running boards,AT,CD plr,Gemtop steel canopy basically stock and Polar white in color. Only 50 k miles and I'm spaying my cat soon and adding gauges, plates and other money grabbers!!

 

[sam peterson]

Moisture sensitive lining may be causing a brake grab when sitting overnight or in wet whether. If the brakes work fine after a few stops if won,t cause a problem. Its just nerve racking. Gearoil on the lining can cause a simular problem but usually will do it hot or cold.

 

[glnmaurer]

Originally posted by Silver Streak

Help! No brakes... well almost

I have a 96 Ram 2500 and I tow a 34' 5th wheel (16,000 lbs). The trouble is I can't stop fast enough if I have to. Even when I'm not towing the truck stops just OK but if I have to stop fast it skids real easy. There was a TSB to upgrade in 96 to upgrade the rear brake which I had done. I have been through a pair of rotors and 3 sets of front pads and 2 sets of rear brakes and had to replace the rear drums. I only have 63K miles on the truck. I don't drive that fast especially when towing, and I do use the exhaust brake. Does the cross drilled or slotted rotors with the carbon kevlar pads work? Any other ideas. I need advise, please help.



96 RAM 2500 5 speed, 410 rear end, Bosch 230 Injectors, TST Plate #5, 16 cm Turbo Housing, BD 3000 Govenor Spring Kit, K&N Filter, 4" Exhaust System, No CAT, Horton Fan, Mag Hy-Tec Diff Cover, 12" Dual Disc clutch, BD Exhaust Brake

(Advertisement removed by admin. See vendor guideline c:



No posting of the business web site or phone number in the Discussion Forums. Please see the Vendor Promotion area of the Classified Advertisements to post this type of information. )

 

[ageorge]

ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM

Zoom Zoom Zoom requires Whoa Whoa Whoa. If you want to go fast, you have to be able to stop. My 98 with a 5 speed and no aftermarket type braking still has the orig shoes and pads @ 78,000 miles, and will probably make 100,000 miles before needing attention. The roads you drive on, and HOW YOU drive have more to do with it than how it came from the factory. We can't blame Dodge for everything. We have to take responsability for our own actions, as we expect the manufacturer to do upon occasion.

 

[WestTN]

Hey, Illflem,

Have you checked your dexter brakes out? They shouldn't require ten clicks a week unless you are going through a set of brakes in about a month or so. I found one of mine that had the adjuster spring rigged below the adjuster instead of over the top of it. And that was from the factory. The spring will keep the adjuster from backing off if it is in the right place.

 

[sam peterson]

Quite a few of the adjuster springs are on the bottom of the adjuster. This is proper depending on the shoes that are used.