Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Brand new to Forum, looking for assistance

[TWaterman]

First, let me say I am very impressed with the info I find on the TDR website, I am a new member, owning my first Dodge Deisel. I operate a

RV Service department and when a customer was trading in his '98 with

105K miles on it I grabbed it. New transmission in '05, I had the rear rebuilt, running a Hytec pumkin cover with transmission temp and rear end temp along with Banks Exh temp and Boost guages. Truck is in great shape and I am very happy with it thus far, having been a Ford Power Stroke supporter in the past.

Here is my only issue I am dealing with; The fuel/water separator is different on the Dodge and I think maybe I have not paid enough attention to it and consequently believe fuel has spilled on the components below the drivers side battery and on into the starter as when I attempt to start it, sometimes after waiting for the "wait to start" to go out, I turn the key and only here a click, no start. Some times goes like this for 3 or 4 minutes then the starter catches and as soon as it does it starts right up...

What am I missing here. I have removed and cleaned both batteries, cleaned the components under the drivers side battery. Hate to spend money on a new starter unless one of you experts I should go there.

Sorry for the long text. Do like the truck and think from what I have read there is one of you out there that can steer me in the right direction.

Thank you

Tom, new to Dodge and the TDR

 

[fox]

Welcome to the best diesel truck site!!!

Your starter contacts are worn out. It is a simple job to replace them, with the hardest is to get the starter off of the motor.

Try here for the good contacts, Foster Truckif you want to change them yourself.

 

[JHansen]

Hi Tom-welcome to the TDR. I believe you will find that your starter solenoid contacts are worn-out. If you go here LarryB's Dodge starting problems solved here. you will find a replacement set for a reasonable price that will last considerably longer than the original ones. A word of warning-you should get them fixed as soon as possible as there is the potential for them to stick in the closed position-in addition to keeping the starter engaged it also backfeeds the fuel shutoff solenoid causing it to fail-and they are a very pricey item. If you scroll down LarryB's page you will see a link to a Solenoid Saver diode that will prevent the shutoff solenoid from failing in the event that the contacts ever did stick closed-well worth the money he charges for it.



Hope this helps.

Jason

 

[TWaterman]

Thanks Jason and Fox, I will get right on this. I appreciate your quick response. Will let you know how I make out. .



Tom

 

[JHansen]

Like Fox said, the hardest part is getting the starter off. The bolts are TIGHT! You will need a good 10mm 12 point wrench. The top one is no fun... . but it is doable.



Good luck!

Jason

 

[GHansen]

Use a bottle jack under the wrench to make the job alot easier - when you get under there you will see how it works.

 

[Hammer]

Tom...

WELCOME!!!!

The fuel you spilled is not a big problem to anything below,just a mess to clean up. The other guys have you righted with your starting issues and starter contacts so all I will add is this. When you changed your fuel filter out did you make sure you used the new o-ring and seal on the filter?. If you did then all thats left is clean up the spilled fuel and you good to go. There is no possible way to remove the factory fuel filter from under and up without making a mess(unless you competely drain it).



Your 98 is just broken in with those miles on it and after you get to know it better you will feel more comfortable,until then all of us here are glad to help you out with what we can... ... ... . Andy

 

[Loren]

Tom,



Welcome aboard.



I just wanted to confirm what the others have already told you. Install those starter contacts from LarryB's ASAP. In some failure modes they can take out your alternator and/or cause your starter to continue to run after you've released the key to the "RUN" position. If this happens, you're looking at some big expenses.



To emphasize the point: You will need a 10 mm, 12-POINT socket. A six-point won't work. You'll understand when you see the bolts. A 10" (or so) extension also helps.



Forum items:

You can go to the top of the page and select the menu item, "Discussion Forums", and then select "User Control Panel. " This is where you can create a "signature" that will appear at the bottom of your posts, like mine below, that tells members about your truck, trailers, or anything else. Knowing about your truck will help others help you better.



You can also tell us where you live. It will appear under your user name to the left of your posts. You can see below my name that I live in Rising Sun, IN. This will sometimes help too.



Again, good to have you with us. Now that you've told everyone that you are an RV service guy, you will be very popular, especially on the Towing and Hauling forum.



Loren

 

[TWaterman]

Thank you all for the responses, looking forward to correcting my starter issue with the info I have obtained from all your responses.

 

[MAleshire]

Tom---welcome. Ditto on the starter contacts and use of a bottle jack. You might also use a cheater bar on the wrench for that top starter bolt. I'm also fairly new to TDR and would enjoy chatting with you. I live in Salem and I'm in the directory.



Skip

 

[tp0d]

When I did my contacts, I bought a 10mm 12 point box wrench from Sears. The ends were offset, and it was a little over 12" long. Made for a cake job. Dunno if I`d drag a bottle jack under there with me, but YMMV. . The bolts weren't nearly as tight as everyone said they were.

I`d also recommend some blue loc-tite for re-install. Vibration is a bad thing.

good luck, and Welcome to the TDR, TWaterman!

-j

 

[MLee]

I don't want to be a spoil sport--- But-- Now that you are all set with your starter problem, you might want to check out the KDP. [killer dowel pin] Has it been done? and if not consider doing it. I did not see in your posting if it had been done.

Just something else to do.

 

[Missouri Mule]

If the rubber fuel lines (return/supply) haven/t been changed lately LarryB's(fostertruck.com) has marine rated fuel line hoses.

 

[TWaterman]

Would be interested in knowing more on that KDP, I have to say I am not even sure where it is. Thank You, Tom

 

[MAleshire]

Tom---go to the TDR menu and click on forum search. Under "Key Words" type in KDP Repair and under "Search in Forums" click on 12 Valve Engine and Transmission

('94-'98) then click on Search. You'll get a lot of info on the KDP from that search. I think I have the instructions for fixing it around here somewhere, I'll go look.



Skip

 

[MAleshire]

Tom---I found the repair info for the KDP. It came from TDR member Joe George. He'll email it to you by request. Also, he has a great write-up of the fuel system for our trucks-----both trouble shooting and repair. He'll also email that to you upon request. Both of these write ups are something that you should have. IMHO Joe is one of the gurus on the second generation trucks. His email address is: -- email address removed -- The KDP is something that needs to be tended to as a priority. Hopefully the PO can tell you whether it has been done. Hope this helps.



Skip

 

[bigdaddydieseldan]

Tom

You can also by the kdp kit by tst for about 50. 00 or so and it has everything in it to take care of the problem along with written instuctions along with pictures and every tool you'll need to accomplish this task.

 

[Dave M]

Tom

You can also by the kdp kit by tst for about 50. 00 or so and it has everything in it to take care of the problem along with written instuctions along with pictures and every tool you'll need to accomplish this task.

Here is a thread of mine showing pics of how I used my floor jack to loosen that pesky hard to reach upper bolt:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ssions/147505-starter-replacement-w-pics.html



I'm with bigdaddy here. The TST KDP instructions were very good. Also, while you have the timing cover off, remove and tighten all the bolts holding the case to block (I think there are 11) clean and blue locktite them. Any of those bolts can come loose and cause the same damage as the dowel pin. Also a good time to replace the water pump, thermostat and radiator hoses while you are there and clean your radiator fins with a stream of water to get rid of bugs.



Many of us have done this job and can give you help with the details.



Welcome to TDR,

Dave