Break in with no load....

[Gary C]

I have been lurking on this Board for 1 and a half years now. Tons of info.

But I have 3 questions:
1. Pick up the pick up next weekend from a dealer in Northern California and driving it back to So California. No load and on the highway. I have read no cruise control and varying speed, is there anything else I can do for break-in?

2. Which A-Pillar gauge kit is the nicest?

3. What mod can I do to gain a little bit in HP, without the dealer having a warranty fit?

thanks

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2001. 5 2500 QuadCab SLT Plus, Auto, 3. 54 Anti-Spin Axle, 4X2, SWB, White/Tan. Bombing shall commence, soon after breakin. www.ProwlerOnline.com

[This message has been edited by Gary C (edited 01-04-2001). ]

 

[HC]

1. Break-in - try this link: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/featurearticles/RingsandBreakIn.htm

2. Pillar gauges - I'm 85% satisfied with my SPA dual gauge, and pillar mount from Geno's garage. The 15% is due to loose wiring that won't stay tight at the pressure sensor. I think this is solvable, but I'm waiting for warmer weather...

3. Depends very much on your dealer - you have to ask him. I'm afraid most dealers would not accept any level of modifications. You might want to consider "shaking down" the vehicle for 20k miles or even more, before adding anything other than gauges. If your Cummins is a real lemon (very rare), you should know it by then, if it is just "average" then the 100k warranty is almost meaningless anyway because the engine will probably go 3 to 5 times that. Lift pumps, and some autos might not be so long lasting, and a dealer could claim problems with either of those were created by any "extra power" mod that you might have done. This is just an opinion, lets see what others say too.

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2001 ETH, QC, LWB, 4WD, 3. 54, SPA Pyro & Boost, K&N RE-880 w/foam pre-cleaner, ARE Z-series Cab-high shell, Rear ARB locker, and all kinds of synthetic fluids...

 

[Gary C]

HC,
Thanks for the response.

I know it can be tough here if you are a newbee. #ad


Thanks for your input.

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2001. 5 2500 QuadCab SLT Plus, Auto, 3. 54 Anti-Spin Axle, 4X2, SWB, White/Tan. Bombing shall commence, soon after breakin. www.ProwlerOnline.com

[This message has been edited by Gary C (edited 01-06-2001). ]

 

[RobG]

I would like a set of SPA guages, but I feel they're way too costly at this point. I can't justify $700+ for three guages, when I can get regular analog guages for less than half that.

I have the ISSPRO pyro and boost guages, and the Banks oil temp guage (since I have a stick). Banks also has a very nice trans temp guage. I had the ISSPRO trans temp one in my '96, and while it worked fine, it was just boring to look at. The Banks one is much more colorful.

I have the autometer triple-guage pod with the tweeter mount in it, and I painted it to match the interior by ordering a can of interior spraypaint from Mopar4Less.com.

As for break-in, I believe that there is such a thing as too much worrying about it. I recall reading an official response from Cummins someplace to the effect of, "Be gentle on it for the first 100 miles, then put it to work. " And that's what I did with mine.

Rob


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2001. 5 RAM 3500 QC 4x4 ETH/DEE Silver/Agate 4. 10 USGear OD, Rickson 19. 5 Wheels

 

[LSMITH]

You can add a Van Aaken CPC to your truck. The BD Plug N Power is the same thing for about $150 less. It can be removed in less than 30 seconds before your truck goes to see the dealer and there is no way to tell it was there. It will add 60 HP and 160 FT-LBS of torque at 2000 rpm and the low end power is awesome. I would get some miles on the truck first though.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

As far as break-in, all I have to say is: Don't do it like a DuraMax #ad
GM says keep it under 55 mph for the first 500 miles #ad
#ad
#ad

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The later trucks have a void sticker where you plug in the VA box. Injectors are probably the cheapest and best hp/$ for you. You can find 275 hp RV injectors for around $300 and they add 50 hp to an automatic-equipped Ram like yours. Injectors ease the load on the pump, if anything.

This is what I like. Truck ain't even arrived yet, and Bombing is already in the wind #ad
Just try to find a dealer who is decent, reasonable and intelligent [yeah, I know, an oxymoron #ad
] and then you won't have to worry about legitimate warranty concerns vs. the parts you add. You might also check lift pump pressure right off the bat. If it is good, you have a much better chance that the pumps won't be hurt by boxes.

Bombaholics Unanimous

 

[Gary C]

TY again for the input.

Yes, we will be BOMBing in 10000 miles or so.

My dealer is way cool, well, very cool.

Thanks again , I am sure there will many more questions after next weekend.

TY

What should the lift pump pressure be?

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2001. 5 2500 QuadCab SLT Plus, Auto, 3. 54 Anti-Spin Axle, 4X2, SWB, White/Tan. BOMBing shall commence, soon after breakin. www.ProwlerOnline.com

 

[Deezal Man]

Just wondering how you know your dealer is "way cool"? The sales people are always nice. .

I've always hear that Diesel's should be "worked" in order to break em in. Course, that advice came from people used to iron block/head Diesels. I guess the Duracrack is a little more fragile in the beginning.
I don't have a problem with 100% aluminum or 100% iron motors. . But this 50/50 stuff doesn't make sense. YES, I know why they do it. It just isn't logical to me to bond two different metals together, which expand and contract differently at different temps... and expect them to remain sealed????

Last time I checked, the manual recommended running the same type and size tires??

Sorry for getting off the subject.