Break job time. Question about reusing rotor

[JasonCzerak]

Ok, I'm just starting to get a squeek every now and again outa my front brakes... .



56,000 miles



Me and the dealer thought a vibration problem WAS the breaks back in June. I had 2 REALLY big high speed stops on a trip (one moron driver, one deer). And shortly after that this vibration started. Turns out it was the center deal in the drive shaft (odd huh?)... . BUT in the mean time we tried re-surfacing the rotors as a fix. This was about 15 or 20,000 miles ago.



Currently I have a small groove were the break pad isn't "touching" on the outer lip of the rotor. If I were to just purchase a set of the best break pads that napa has to offer (severe duty metallics for $60-ish). Could I get away with this for a while? Or am I required to get the rotors replaced? They are $80 a set from napa as well for rotors. But If I'm going to spend another $160 on parts, might as well get some good racing rotor?



If so what's the best street setup? Just slotted rotors and pads.

 

[JDinNY]

I usually change rotors every other brake job.

 

[jelag]

Rotors have a minimum thickness stamped on them..... We have several trucks that pull hard all the time..... we run the rotors until they are required to be replaced based on this thickness.....



We turn the rotors with every installation of pads... .



I suggest that you inspect the boots on the calipers... if you have boot damage from heat... . than they will be cracked and the calipers need to overhauled... . dirt gets behind the calipers and will bind the pistion causing excessive wear on the pads...



Our 04 Dually pulling a 18K lb trailer 85% of the time went to 160K miles before the first brake job... The premium pads I installed which I think are better than OE were $54 for the front and $38 for the rear... We leave the exhaust brake on and use it...



BTW, we had to rebuild all calipers. . heat had damaged our boots...



Hope this helps. .

 

[GWBourne]

might want to look into an exhaust brake as well. i love mine and my breaks are in great shape for 35k miles.



i would find out what origonal thickness on the rotors was, then find the stamping for min thickness. if what your rotors are atis less than half of the medium from the two, then i would rplace the rotors. im a brake and steering natzi. i dont mess around with them. thats just me though.



as for aftermarket or factory, i dont have any input since i have not needed nor come close to needing a brake job.

Grant

 

[JasonCzerak]

I don't tow.



I drive hard.



I would love to have an exhaust break just for kicks! Oo.



My plan is to see if I can slap some pads on just for now. maybe 10,000 miles if that. Then get some good rotors and breaks. I'll have to measure to be sure I suppose.



I would be $60-ish at most in teh hole with just pads when I get a good set. . if I need rotors, I would be close to $220-ish. . if I'm paying over $100, might as well just get the good stuff.



That's my theory.

 

[GWBourne]

I don't tow.



I drive hard.

i do both, and know just how you mean. the exhaust brake is GREAT for messing around. makes slowing down in a hurry even better. most of the time i use the service breaks only in a fast stop and to completly stop.

Grant

 

[JasonCzerak]

i do both, and know just how you mean. the exhaust brake is GREAT for messing around. makes slowing down in a hurry even better. most of the time i use the service breaks only in a fast stop and to completly stop.

Grant

Can't justify $1000 for an exhaust break right now. It will come I'm sure.

 

[hasselbach]

Can't justify $1000 for an exhaust break right now. It will come I'm sure.

Jason, its BRAKES, not BREAKS.

 

[DPKetchum]

If rotors look ok and NO pulsation just use pads only and if you want GOOD pads use the factory pads not NAPAs. One little groove won't affect anything.

 

[JasonCzerak]

If rotors look ok and NO pulsation just use pads only and if you want GOOD pads use the factory pads not NAPAs. One little groove won't affect anything.

This groove is the outer most possible area... ok. Friend thought I might have some trouble getting the pads on because of this.



The rotors looks clean, No pulsation when stopping currently... Perfect. I'll go this route for a little while and then do a real upgrade



Breaks Brakes, BAAAAHH!

 

[DPKetchum]

Take a heck of a groove to not get pads on. Most factoryy manuals thease days DON"T recomend turning rotors if surface looks good and no pulsation. I avoid turning rotors unless its a got to. Clean the caliper slides,lube them and install pads. Good to go. Factory pads a LOT better quality then Napa's best in my humble opinion. I have always avooided aftermarket pads. Took too many sets of them off and returned to customers or put in the trash on MANY differant makes and models for many years.

 

[jelag]

We sell slotted rotors to the local police departments with the same quality pad I installed on my truck. . they use the premium rotor, because they might need the ability to shed the heat in a chase..... all there around town vehicles get standard rotors... that is anything not assigned to patrol... . the only benifit of slotted rotors is the ability to shed excessive heat and keep the pads working... . to prevent disc brake fade... I personally think that the only way to overheat these brakes to the point of fade is to go down a 10% grade 20 mph over the suggested decent speed pulling a very large trailer... . IMOP slotted rotors might be a waste of money..... However a great pad that functions well is worth twice the price. .



Jim

 

[hasselbach]

We sell slotted rotors to the local police departments with the same quality pad I installed on my truck. . they use the premium rotor, because they might need the ability to shed the heat in a chase..... all there around town vehicles get standard rotors... that is anything not assigned to patrol... . the only benifit of slotted rotors is the ability to shed excessive heat and keep the pads working... . to prevent disc brake fade... I personally think that the only way to overheat these brakes to the point of fade is to go down a 10% grade 20 mph over the suggested decent speed pulling a very large trailer... . IMOP slotted rotors might be a waste of money..... However a great pad that functions well is worth twice the price. .



Jim

I thought slotted rotors was to vent gases emitted by the pads during heavy braking action. I don't think slots actually make a rotor run cooler. In fact, they probably run hotter as you reduce the mass of the rotor.

 

[JasonCzerak]

Get going 110mph... ..... stand on the brake to about 10mph... . roll few feet, run it up to 110mph and stand on the brake. She will fade.



that's not every day driving for me. But I would like to have that ability to reduce the fade as much as possible. I have gotten the stockers to fade a bit, not to bad, but a bit.

 

[Matt400]

we tried re-surfacing the rotors as a fix. This was about 15 or 20,000 miles ago.

That would be my warning flag, thinner rotors are more susceptible to warping than before they were cut cuz they can't dissipate the heat as well. I would replace them.



If you had not cut them AND experience no shake while braking I would say to re use them.

 

[KVaughn]

Who makes the best / longest lasting aftermarket rotors (and pads)? The last two brake jobs my pads wore out about the same time as the rotors (which is bs imho). A quick search on Google has hundreds of brake part suppliers but how do you know which ones are worth a damn?



http://www.brakewarehouse.com/ShowResults22perotor.asp

 

[Matt400]

try here:

http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm

 

[KVaughn]

Thanks for the info. Ordered package b with new hoses. git r done