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Briggs & Stratton 9HP Help!!

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Hi, I have a Briggs 9 horse on a Mckensik chipper. It has run fine for four years now... ... . It will start ok and run great for only 25 mins then it just shuts down. Dead.



I check and change oil and have brought in into a shop for repair like any good dealer they could find nothing wrong with it. I have blown out the gas cap to prevent vapor lock. My only other thought is the coil is getting hot and breaking down. could someone ask someone who knows someone for help. Thanks. Mike
 
Coil is a possilibilty but before you spend the money, that engine has a low oil shutdown

sensor somewhere that could be heating up and failing. I've never seen that motor and don't know where it might be located but remove the wire, making sure you have enough oil, when it's hot and see if it will still run. These new engines will have that sensor somewhere it's near impossible to find, might even be under the flywheel. Check with your repair guy, maybe he can tell you where it is, or try it himself. I had engine that did what your's is doing and found that as my last chance fix. Hope is that easy. Let us know what you find out.
 
O had a few small motors 14hp and 6 Hp do nearly the same thing. Bu they diew About 10-15 minutes into of use.
It is the block getting warm and the piston loosing compression and then of cource they die.
 
Thx for the replies, I make sure oil is fresh and topped off , so the shut off is not affected I will call Briggs and ask about the oil sensor. The block is not over heating.
 
when engine shuts down check for compression right away. maybe exhaust valve is sticking in guide . cools down then works again. remove blower housing,blow out debris from fins,might be overheating?my 2 cents. PETE
 
sounds like something is getting hot. Don't know much about these engines, Does it have a fuel pump or is it gravity feed? I know its way off base but I have a trans am with a bad fuel pump. It runs fine for awhile till it warms up then it dies. The length of run time also seems to depend on outside temps. Just a thought
 
First, disconnect the low oil sensor to eliminate it as a problem. I doubt that it's the problem, they usually shut the engine off in seconds, not minutes. Next, when (if) it stops, immediately shut off the fuel valve and loosen the nut on the bottom of the carb bowl and see if it ran out of fuel. If the bowl is empty, you found your problem. Failing that, remove the spark plug and look for spark when you crank the engine. Try to do this test out of direct sunlight, as the spark from Magnetron ignition is very faint. Last, as others have suggested, verify that the engine still has compression, although that problem will show up in less than 25 minutes. As far as the rings go, if it has enough compression to start, the rings are OK.
 
fyi i know for a fact, on midsized engines that they lose compression due to bad rings and the bore. now it will die on its own, and defiantly die suddenly with any type of load when it hits a certain "point" of expansion i have seen this in 14 hp through 5 hp engines

now Honda motors can not be tested, they have an open valve to allow you to pull the cord, and at a certain rpm it operates normally
 
This sounds like the most likely scenario. At this point do I need a new carb. or rebuild the one I have? Just for knowledge what actually causes this to happen(if it is the lack of fuel in the carb. ?
 
If it is running out of fuel, remove the bowl and turn on the fuel. It should be a stream, not a drip, and should fill the bowl in ten seconds or less. If not, start tracing your way back to the tank until you find the restriction. It is possible that a piece of debris is sitting above the float needle assembly. There is no need to replace the carb unless it is gummed up or broken.
 
and if it has a pressurized lube system, disconnect the low oil pressure shutdown switch. These switches are NOTORIOUS for failing... I have to replace the O/P/S/S on my air compressor about every year.

Before doing a bunch... check to see if its firing when it shuts down. If its consistently firing, examine the contents of the carb. bowl and remove and clean out the main jet.
 
If it has one of those plastic diaphragm fuel pumps replace it they're cheep. Also check the vacuum line to the pump from the engine block, they work on a pulse from the bottom side of the piston if the line is cracked the pump will be weak. We had a log splitter in here that would run until it warmed up and quit after a lot of screwing around, we pulled the fly wheel off and a mouse had made a nest and chewed all the insulation off and frayed all of the wires. Fixed the wires and it was fine. Good luck!



_________________________

93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 273k

04. 5 3500 4wd qc dully 373 6speed 94k
 
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Follow the wires coming from under the blower housing. At least one should connect to the on/off switch, additional wire may be for LOL cutoff. It could be a single wire mounted to a probe going into the crankcase, another possibility is that it does not have one. Forget an OP switch, I've never seen a horizontal shaft single cylinder Briggs with an oil pump. To completely eliminate the coil, remove the blower housing and disconnect the ground lead from the coil, that will eliminate everything but the coil as a problem (except a fuel problem). Don't get your hope up on this, Briggs ignition systems are pretty bulletproof. Don't run it WO the blower housing, it will quickly overheat. I still put the odds on a fuel system problem.
 
I saw a 10 HP Diesel for $599, tired of Briggs.

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10 Hp Diesel Engine Electric Start Plus Recoil Start

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Electric Srart and Recoil Start

10 Hp Air Cooled Engine 418 cc

Direct injection combustion system

1 inch Keyed Shaft

Limited one year warranty
 
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