2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Bright Overhead Display with Headlights

[CTD12V]

I finally got around to "correcting" the brightness of my overhead compass/temp display. Has anybody else noticed how it dims way down (at least on the '98 models) when you turn the headlights on, even though you have the instrument illumination turned all the way up? That's fine when it's totally dark outside, but I end up having my headlights on a fair amount of time when it's not dark outside, and this feature makes it really hard to read the temperature, especially with sunglasses on.



So I installed a switch to inturrupt the "headlights on" signal to the overhead display. I'll post some pics in case anyone else happens to be bothered by the same thing and wants to change it.



Edit: Well, I'll post them if I can figure out how to.

 

[CTD12V]

I found the wire that carries the headlight signal, and clipped it, which on my 98 is the black wire with the yellow tracer that goes into the hole on the bottom row, second from the right as you look at the back of the plug.



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I spliced a mini SPST toggle switch from Radio Shack into the wire I clipped, and mounted the switch on the forward side (towards the rear view mirror) of the console to keep it out of the way.



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[CTD12V]

Here's another shot of the switch.



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I usually leave it in the open position, but when I do want my overhead display dimmed, I just flip it over to the closed position to let the factory circuit do its thing.



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I'm probably the only person on here that's ever been bugged by this, but I figured I'd just post details in the off chance that someone else may want to do the same thing. I think I read that the newer model trucks have another position on the headlights switch that makes all this a moot point, but I didn't have that feature on my truck.



Sorry about the fuzzy pictures.



CTD12V

 

[rotohead]

Very cool... I've been wanting to do the same thing. I'll do that next week once I have my vacuum and PS pump rebuilt, steering box and shaft replaced and replace my hoses with the Mr Bobs silicone hose kit. The leaks are driving me crazy. Oo. Oo.

Chuck

 

[Allnew2Me]

I don't know when the feature was started but on my 01 truck on the dash dimming wheel there is a setting that allows you to turn the overhead console, radio display, odometer, etc. back to full brightness when driving in the day with lights on. On mine it is second to the top setting right before the cargo light comes on. This is with the twist headlight switch not the type you have to pull out. Of course if you drive at night the full brightness reminds you to turn it back off again.

 

[ScottLewis]

Man I wish you had done this and posted several years ago. I cussed the overhead on my '98 the 8 years I had it. I just didn't know how to cure the problem. I sold it a month or so ago. I assume yours also had the pull out type switch. The dimmer control didn't do it.



Dan

 

[Thomas]

I don't know when the feature was started but on my 01 truck on the dash dimming wheel there is a setting that allows you to turn the overhead console, radio display, odometer, etc. back to full brightness when driving in the day with lights on. On mine it is second to the top setting right before the cargo light comes on. This is with the twist headlight switch not the type you have to pull out. Of course if you drive at night the full brightness reminds you to turn it back off again.

Same three switches are used model years 2000-2002

 

[CTD12V]

I assume yours also had the pull out type switch. The dimmer control didn't do it.

Yeah, it's the pull out switch. Turn it counter clockwise to bring up the panel lights, first click turns on the overhead interior lights and second click turns on the rear cargo box light.

 

[rotohead]

Caution removing overhead display...

I thought I would look at this at lunch today and removed the two screws and pulled down on the unit thinking it was held on with clips similar to the instrument panel or a-pillar... but it's not exactly. There are two clips stuck on the ends of flimsy plastic ends. Pulling straight down broke one of mine. After removing the screws I think you need to slide the unit to the rear before pulling down. I don't know if I can repair this or have to buy a new one. I've never had this off before and now I know.



Chuck

 

[CTD12V]

Sorry to hear that Chuck. I guess I should have thought to warn people about that. You're right about sliding it back before pulling down -- the factory service manual tells how to do it. However, even that doesn't prevent the crappy little plastic tabs from breaking eventually. I've had to repair both of mine.



What I've done is cut a narrow piece of thin metal (a splice plate from the hardware store works perfectly) so that it is just wide enough to fit between the outer edges of the metal "wings" on the clips. I bent this piece of strap metal back over on itself, leaving the bend gradual enough to fit around the top of the metal wing clip, so that the strap metal goes up through the wing on one side, over the top of the clip, and back down through the wing on the other side.



The strap metal should be long enough to have at least one "tail" that goes about a quarter of an inch lower than the crack on the plastic tab. A tail on both sides of the plastic tab is better. Tweak the tails until they are snug against the tab, so that the broken piece with the metal wing clip is somewhat held in place with the piece of strap metal.



Then use a flexible glue like Goop (pretty much the same as Shoo Goo) or Loctite Extreme Repair, or something like that, and glue the broken plastic tab together, then glue the piece of strap metal to both pieces of the plastic tab, especially the lower part that is still attached to the console. Let everything dry thoroughly before you put stress on it, or it will shove the pieces out of alignment.



So far that has worked for me. If what I've said doesn't make any sense, I'll try to clarify it a bit and maybe get a picture. Hope this helps.



CTD12V

 

[CTD12V]

Hey Chuck,



Have you had any luck repairing your broken console tabs?

 

[rotohead]

CTD1V



Only one tab broke so I was able to engage the one good tab and with the forward screws it holds up for now. I would like to see pics of how you repaired yours but not at the expense of you re-breaking your unit trying to remove it. I've got a idea or two that could work. I'm in the middle of a vacuum pump rebuild-ps pump/gear box replacement- all hoses, waterpump and antifreeze replace. 100,000 mile preventative maint.

I like your overhead unit mod... it's simple to do and maybe it's not worth doing for most people but it bugged me for a long time and i know I will enjoy it the more I use it. Thanks for asking and thanks for the mod.

Chuck

 

[CTD12V]

You bet! I know it sure annoyed me the first three years I owned this truck before I finally got around to doing something about it.



I'll try to get a pic of the tab repair soon here. The repairs seem to be a lot sturdier than the original tab, so I'm not to worried about them breaking when I take it on and off now.



Good luck on your current maintenance! My P/S pump just died on me about a month ago, so I just went through the whole vac pump rebuild, P/S pump replacement thing. I put a MagneFine inline filter on the P/S return line, so hopefully my new pump will last a little longer than the original.



CTD12V

 

[rotohead]

CTD12V

I also have the add on filter that I want to install but I have a couple questions for you if you don't mind.

1) do you think there is any benefit to installing two filters, one on each return line to the pump? Being they are only $14 each I don't see price being a big restricton if it would make everything last even longer.

2) And if only one is necessary, than that one should go on the return line that connects to the longer return pipe on the back of the ps pump? I just want to make sure I'm on track here.



Thanks for the help. I'll be glad when I get this back on the road. I get more and more nervous the longer parts are all over my workbench that I won't remember how it all goes back together. At my age (58) I'm amazed how quickly my brain re-arranges the parts in a different order and even don't recognize parts that have to have come out of this truck. It's like it can 'make' parts overnite. I'm starting to get smart about the critical stuff and use my digital camera to replace lost brain cells sacrificed to the beer god.

Chuck

 

[CTD12V]

Hey Chuck,



I only installed one filter based on the posts I read of several other members. I'm not sure you would benefit a whole lot from putting a filter on the return line from the hydroboost unit. The way I understand it, the majority of the P/S fluid circulates through the pump-to-gearbox lines, so most of your filtering would be achieved on the return line from the steering gear anyways (I think that is probably the longer line you referred to). I am by no means an expert on this subject, however, so you probably could get more informative answers from others if you started a separate thread devoted to those questions.



Here are some pictures of the tab fixes I did. Sorry I can't get the camera to focus properly in these pictures. Stinkin autofocus point and shoots . . . #@$%!



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You can see that I only have a long tail of metal on one side. I also was a little messy with my glue job. But so far it seems to be holding well. You can also see how the metal strip folds up and over the top of the retaing 'wing' clip.



Hope this helps,



CTD12V

 

[rotohead]

Thanks CTD12V, I've got it glued up and will let it sit overnite. My glue job is as messy as yours but won't be seen by anybody. Thanks for the tips and advice.

Chuck