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Brite Box dead again, disposable?

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brake light problems

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I have removed my original post. The Brite Box that I had experience problems with was not the current production version, and thus this likely will not apply to most of the people on here. Joel is taking care of the issues that I had previously written about.
 
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It seems you could get snow plow extra wire harness (comes with 2 male & female plugs for headlight) but you can cut them from your bright box... add a mopar relay and get the same functions... . plus you can always replace the relay if it should fail. relay tip: on some mopars they hang a single relay on the strut tower, comes with a plug ( cut harness) and has a cover with a mounting tab. mount verticle as not to collect water. power the realy coil with "high beam trigger" splice to lug 86 & ground the other side of the coil, lug 85. feed low beam with wire from lug 87 (normally open) and add supply power into relay to lug 30.
 
There are other ways to rig our lights to accomplish what the BriteBox does. Using relays to keep them on. I'm going on 3 years using my BriteBox and have only had one problem. And that was my fault because I cracked the connector changing bulbs and one of the pins backed out slightly. It would work good untill It got wet while driving in the rain. My left side lights would stay on after turning off my headlights. But after about 5-10 minutes they would also go off.

Our trucks have a built in feature to turn off our lights if we forget to trun them off when getting out of the truck. That's what would turn mine off.

If your lights stayed on for the whole night, or for 3 days, you may have another problem that is not related to the BriteBox.

I don't know why my bad connection caused my light to stay on after turning off the switch, or how the BriteBox played a part in the problem. But since I fixed the problem that I caused, mine still work great.



Randy
 
David-

You are not alone buddy! I went through three sets. All three have given me the exact same symptoms. First a single headlight stays on, then that side stops working. If everyone had seen the burnt through hole and the melted carcass of the Britebox controller, I guarantee no one owning an 06 would ever buy one! I surmize my truck eats 'em due to living on the coast and I use mine alot. Eventually, a casual user's WILL FAIL.

I just a week and a half ago sent back the dual kit (2006 model) for a full refund!

THEY ARE NOT RELIABLE!!!! :mad:
(At least my 2006 truck says so)
 
Note: Joel from Baker Auto Associates has taken care of this. I didn't realize it when I wrote this post, but these were early boxes that are not the same as the current production version.



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Photos of boxes melting / melted:



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And here is a link to the video showing the smoke pouring out of the box.

http://www.cyber3dnet.com/truckpics/MOV04639. MPG
 
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Is the light were seeing the box really hot?? That's not good.



Just curious--you have them mounted on the firewall. I take it that you spliced in longer wires to reach the headlights? Mine were only about 12-18"long. I mounted them on the vertical body supports behind the headlights. Having mine mounted up front may give them alot more cooling---if they need it.

Do you think the longer wireing could have caused any of the problems?



Randy
 
I doubt the longer wires caused any difference. The factory wires run that far and are probably smallar awg. These were ordered from Baker Auto Associates with the longer cables, so I have not spliced or otherwise modified them. There is probably a bit more heat in the engine compartment, but the heat that melted the boxes obviously came from within the brite box. I towed some heavy loads over the summer with no heat issues with the box. It melted tonight with an outside temp of below freezing. I feel that there are some design flaws. I mean... . The box uses a light bulb to function. Isn't that an inherent problem in the first place? It will burn out some day, right? :)



I'm just sorry I made the purchase. I wasted $250.
 
contact Joel the guy that builds em, he will stand behind it 100%. There has been a few problems with the boxes as with anything else, but Joel has figured it out. My truck was a test truck so I know firsthand all about it. You can contact him and work it out. Thanks!
 
The light coming from the box is an actual automotive light bulb used in the innards to make the box work. I am sure that's where the heat is coming from.

I got hit last year by a guy who ran a red light and the impact yanked hard on the wires running from the right side box. When everything was put back together the headlight didn't work. I popped the box open since this was not a warranty issue and found a connector loose inside the box.

If the box is no longer in warranty, pop it open and you may find something obviously wrong and easily fixed.

If not, just contact Joel and I'm sure he'll make it right.
 
I contacted Joel and he's going to take care of me on this. I e-mailed him at the same time I posted this on the site. I should have waited for his response rather than posting this immediately since it was a holiday weekend.



Joel -- If you're reading this, please accept my apology.
 
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David, thanks for givin Joel a chance to correct the problem, I knew he would! He really is a stand up guy, as are lots of others on this site, just a bunch of us helpin each other with our toys.
 
I hate to tell you, my last two Brite Boxes WERE THE NEW ONES!!!!

Joel may be a nice guy, but don't fall for the "oh, gosh, you must not have gotten our new and improved model"---B. S. I even was as nice as you re-posting an apology. Alas, I should have kept my original post up. The "New model" failed in 5 months. I had a burn hole that was almost all the way through! AGAIN, it was the second NEW model.....

Caveat Emptor.


https://www.turbodieselregister.com...7-geno-s-brite-box-fog-light-control-kit.html
 
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