Here I am

Brite Box Installation......

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

the best running boards on a 3500

Aeroquip SS Fuel Line Kit

Status
Not open for further replies.
This is cheap enuff that you can try it and see what you think.

------------------
Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
 
A note to those of you who have '99 and '00 model trucks - the relay that works so well in the '94-'98 trucks will not work for you. The red/orange and violet/white wires on the headlamp connector are ground wires on the '99 and '00 trucks whearas they are 12v+ on the '94-'98 models. The third wire in the connector is a solid violet 12v+ wire on the '99 and '00, but it is a black ground wire on th '94-'98's. With the newer trucks, the multi-function switch on the steering column in effect toggles between the two grounds, completing only one circuit at any given time. The way to rig this up to do the job of the brite box is easy. First, remove the plastic shrouds on the steering column. Also remove the black plastic cover that fits around the multi-function switch harness. Remove the 5/16 screw that holds the harness to the multi-function switch assembly and pull the harness loose. Then put a jumper from pin 18 to pin 19. Look on the back of the harness to make sure you get it right - you're trying to connect the violet/white lo side wire to the green wire directly below it that goes to the headlamp switch. Turn the headlamp switch to on without the jumper in place - only the parking lamps should light up. Put the jumper in - the lo beams should come on. Put the whole thing back together and your done! Now when you turn the headlamps on, the lo beams will stay lit all the time and the multi-function switch will just turn the hi beams on and off. You may also want to run a heavier wire from the battery to the solid violet wire on the headlight connector so that it doesn't have to carry all that current on the small guage wire. You could also put a switch in line of the jumper to turn the feature on and off. The best part of this is that everything you need to do it is practically free except for the fuse holder if you decide to run power from the battery.

BTW, I can only speak with absolute certainty on the '00 models. I assume that the '99 is the same way because there is one brite box sold for the '94-'98 trucks and one for the '99 and '00 trucks. You should look at the service manual for your truck before you do anything, no matter what year it is. Have fun!

------------------
'00 2500 4x4, LB, 5spd. ,
3. 54 LSD, trailer tow,
camper special, plow
prep, Van Aaken CPC,
265/75 cooper's, Line-X,
Activator II, alumasport
diamond toolbox, auto
ventshade, cold front,
cup smoothie, pioneer
custom fit cd, bazooka
bass tubes, SS
convertaball, silencer
ring removed

apprentice BOMBer



[This message has been edited by Arcticat (edited 02-13-2000). ]
 
Arcticat, You da MAN! I followed your instructions on my 99 today. Easy to do and works great. I wired mine through a toggle switch mounted to the bottom of the column cover. I really appreciate the tip.
Thanks,
Russ


------------------
99 3500 4X4 Quad 5-speed 3. 54LS White/Agate 235/85 Michelins, Rancho RS9000s, Reese 15K 5er Hitch, Stainless Bedcaps and Wheelwell trim, Mopar Dually flaps with Geno's Chrome tips, Geno's Monster Exhaust Tip, Scotty style K&N, Bosch 275 HP Injectors. Purchased 16June99, 1OK Miles so far. Average MPG: 17 City 20 Highway
 
WHY USE RELAYS??????Can't you just use high capacity diodes between the high beam hot and the low beam hot. It would allow current to flow to low beams and high beams when high's are on, but would not allow current to flow to the high's when the low's are on... ... . #ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
 
FL60cummins,
Guess the main reason I did it with relays is 'cause I don't know Jack***t about diodes, what size to use etc. #ad
Had to go with what I understood. Also have a feeling that is what the factory "Brightbox" uses although I have never seen one. Didn't want to be stepping on someones patent. Was able to figure this one out with the help of Joe G.
Skeet #ad
 
I understand diodes ok, but I like the simplicity of a relay. The R/S relay is a nice item (30 amp load) and it uses standard spade lugs so it's easy to replace and/or test. I suppose I could have found a diode that would have worked but didn't bother to look.

Ron, look what you started. This thread is long enuff to be a flamer now!

------------------
Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
 
Joe G. ,
Tell me about it, 76 diagram requests so far and then notifying everyone that the wiring had changed on the 1999 forward vehicles. Thats what makes the TDR so great for all of us!
Skeet #ad
#ad
 
Skeet, ifn no 1 says it --- Thanks for the E-Mail update (u didnt have 2-butt- then agn). It takes a "special" member to e-mail every one on the change that was discovered too late. Knew about the change when I found out the "DRL" box I bought wouldnt work. Went with a relay powered off the alternator, using a 150amp diode to isolate the battery. Drives my hour meter and others this way (only on with eng).

Thanks agn... ... ...

p. s. ifn I did the diode agn I would use a "reversed" polarity diode and rated at about 175 amps, because it would mount betta. (connected between the alt wire and the relay box - air cooled - HEHEHE)

\\BF//
 
T
Originally posted by Skeet Cathey:
Joe G,
Thanks for the information. Will hit R/Shack in the morning for a couple of relays. Will send you an e-mail later.

Larry Q: Looks like the schematic I sent you will work O. K. for the full time on setup. Will draw up one for the switch in the cab and send it to you later just in case you change your mind.

Anyone else need the drawings drop me an e-mail and I'll send them out.

THE BRITE BOX WAS NEXT ON MY LIST. JUST BECAME A MEMBER A FEW DAYS AGO. $35. TO TDR HAS ALREADY PAID FOR ITSELF!!!! PLEASE SEND ME THE SCHEMATIC FOR A 1994. THANKS ALOT!!!


------------------
94 2500 4X4 SLT LARAMIE,AUTOMATIC,162,000. MILES,ORDERED NEW,BRILLIANT BLUE/SILVER BOTTOM,7. 5ft. MEYERS POLYBLADE SNOWPLOW,12K REESE HITCH W/2 LIGHTS,30ft. FOURWINDS 5th WHEEL CAMPER W/15K REESE HITCH,CAR TRAILER,UTILITY TRAILER,K&N AIR,PUMP TURNED UP 20%,CAT. GUTTED,STOCK TORQUE PLATE WIDE OPEN,TST BOOST&EGT PILLAR MOUNT GAUGES,AMSOIL,RANCHO SHOCKS&STABILIZER,VENT SHADES,PRIME DESIGN(behind grille)BUG GUARD W/EYEBROWS,MOULDED MUD FLAPS,WINDOW TINT 15%,BEDLINER CUT TO FIT AROUND 5th. WHEEL HITCH RAILS,COBRA CBW/BOOMER AMP,102inch STAINLESS WHIP,PA SYSTEM
 
**ICEMAN**,

Just click on the envelope icon at the top of one of Skeet's posts if you want to send him an e-mail.

Joe G.

------------------
Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
 
I was installing guages this past week, and discovered an even easier way to do the britebox thing for 99-00's. Take off the knee bolster, which is held by three screws at the bottom and snap clips at the top. The bundle of wires that goes to the multi function switch is unprotected for about six inches. Jump the two wires I mentioned in my previous post there instead of the switch harness, there's a lot more room to work with.

EDIT: I hope I haven't given anybody the impression in this or my previous posts on this thread that they need to CUT anything. That will render everything useless - it is critical that you maintain the connection from the headlamp switch to the multifunction switch. The thing to use is a scotch-lock. I had two emails asking which wires to CUT. Sorry for the lack of clarity.

------------------
'00 2500 4x4, LB, 5spd. ,
3. 54 LSD, trailer tow,
camper special, plow
prep, Van Aaken CPC,
265/75 cooper's, Line-X,
Activator II, alumasport
diamond toolbox, auto
ventshade, cold front,
cup smoothie, pioneer
custom fit cd, bazooka
bass tubes, SS
convertaball, silencer
ring removed

apprentice BOMBer



[This message has been edited by Arcticat (edited 04-02-2000). ]
 
I just modified my headlights following Articat's instructions. It seems to be working OK, but when my high beams(and lo beams #ad
) are on, I can still make them slightly brighter by pulling the hi/lo beam switch rearward. When I do that, the high beam indicator light also gets a little brighter. Is this normal? What can I do to get "full brightness" out of my lights?

Thanks,

Greg

------------------
2000 2500 Quad Cab, SLT, 4x4 Auto, 3. 54 LSD, Forest green two tone paint, all options except leather and CD player, Fisher 8 foot minute mount plow, Dodge Sill Guards, Dodge mud flaps, Dodge bug deflector, fog lights (installed myself), Line-X bedliner, Back-Rack ladder rack, Viper remote starter/alarm.
 
Greg, it just might be that the scotch-locks if you used them may not be big enough to handle the current draw if there is any. Arcticat did mention changing one wire to a larger size thats probably a critical step, be sure nothing is over loaded. Regards Pete
 
Notice that Pep Boys,and Jegs has a gadget to do this(supposedly). Picture looks like it might be a relay and some wires. Blv it was
around $30. Anyone know about these.
thnx
 
would like to see this setup figured out for a 2001, anyone have any ideas?

------------------
TAZ... 2001 2500 SLT+ 4X4 Auto ETC Cummins, LSD 3. 54,Quad Cab, Long Bed, Agate Leather, White/Driftwood Exterior, Sliding rear window, Camper Special Group, Towing Group, Cab clearance lights, Diesel Dynamics Stage-3's, DD Boost Module,SPA-Technique Digital Dual Gauges (Pyro/Boost, Trans pressure/temp) Aux. Backup lamps. BNM 5th Wheel Hitch, Additional Body Molding on Bed. BD Torc Loc, BD Pressure Loc, Line-X bed-liner. DTT's TC & VB. Pac Brake

2000 32' Aljo Triple Slide 5th Wheel.

http://www.ramtaz.com

Add on's to come: Power Edge Box,and any other Ram Runner required modifications...
 
Originally posted by FL60cummins:
WHY USE RELAYS??????Can't you just use high capacity diodes between the high beam hot and the low beam hot. It would allow current to flow to low beams and high beams when high's are on, but would not allow current to flow to the high's when the low's are on... ... . #ad
#ad
#ad
#ad

Diodes will work, however the current will all flow through the headlight switch. By using a relay the extra juice required to run the low beams when the high beams are on is supplied directly from the battery, not through the headlight switch.

Pete



------------------
'97 2500 CC 4X4 5spd Sport
'83 K5 Blazer 350 TBI (ex 6. 2), 39. 5 TSLs, 3" lift, Dana 60/GM 14 blt, Detroits
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top