2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brites and dims together!

[moon]

Was going to put a relay in today to run my dims amd brites together so i checked the wiring at the lites first. 2001. 5 so the ground is switched,+ is on all the time, tested the 3 wires going to the bulbs and looks like the middle is + and one side is for dim,checks out, but when i switch to brite i get no current between the + and the wire on the other side which is the brite. My truck has DRLs but i pushed the emergincy brake pedal dow a notch to turn them off and they where off so im sort of stumped. Any suggestions.

 

[LSMITH]

Buy a Brite Box from Geno's.

 

[Chipstien]

If I remember right the center wire is constant 12V+. You will get funky readings because you are reading power through the fillament. Unplug all the bulbs and then do your testing.

 

[moon]

Yes the centre is 12V+ and one side is for dim, the other side is for brites,yes idid have all the bulbs disconected,now i just thought of something,this truck has DRLs and i had the e brake pushed down a notch so the DRLs wouldnt come on and i had power on the dim side but not on the brite side,the DRLs run on the brites so maybe with the DRLs shut off maybe theres no current getting to the brite side,going to have to test without shuttig down the DRLs.

 

[grtescpa]

Originally posted by yelloweyes

Was going to put a relay in today to run my dims amd brites together so i checked the wiring at the lites first. 2001. 5 so the ground is switched,+ is on all the time, tested the 3 wires going to the bulbs and looks like the middle is + and one side is for dim,checks out, but when i switch to brite i get no current between the + and the wire on the other side which is the brite. My truck has DRLs but i pushed the emergincy brake pedal dow a notch to turn them off and they where off so im sort of stumped. Any suggestions.

I read an interesting post about head light wiring on another board. This might be some help. Almost all auto manufacturers use the most minumum size wire for the lights. As the electrical system starts to age connections become oxidated and resistance starts to set in. You can loose as much as 25% of your head light candle power with an ohm or two. This post recomends to install a weather proof 30 amp relay and use your exsisting switch to power the coil. Rewire the lights with #12 wire to the contacts of the relay. Any additional load on the ciruit will be seen by the relay and not your head light switch. You could also set up a simular circuit bring on the highs and lows together at a fraction of the cost for that box that Geno's sells. Hope this helps, good luck.

 

[vc]

yelloweyes,

I think there is a fuse you can pull for the DRL's that will remove power while you are doing your testing.

vc