Broke turbo shaft

[Diesel_lv]

2003 H.O. 6Spd, 275k miles. Passing yesterday in Utah mtns, about 85mph, 27psi boost, 2,300 rpm n heard the sound of a boost hose coming loose. Boost went to zero n tons of whitish smoke from exhaust. Examined engine area and all hoses good. Started up and heard ratling at turbo, lots of smoke from exhaust. Middle of nowhere w no signal. Started driving about 5 miles till I had signal. During that time, rattling went away, but smoking more and no boost. Got signal and pulled over, oil pressure dropped to zero as I was stopping.

Had it towed to Flagstaff, yes expensive. My hypothesis, shaft broke, bearing bad allowing oil to enter exhaust and cause smoke. Then shaft n impeller left the room through the exhaust and more oil entering exhaust.

Question 1: best reman factory replacement turbo?

Question 2: would it be possible to cap off feed line, fill oil and drive home, 180 miles, keeping EGT's in check and then doing replacement at home? If so, what size, pitch, threat etc... would I use for cap?

Question 3: what would be some other things to check for damage due to shaft breakage?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Ozymandias]

I first went with Aftermarket and wasn't happy. Had to replace it again and choose then a Mahle-Clevite. Great price and a renowned manufacturer.
Runs smooth as silk.

 

[seafish]

I first went with Aftermarket and wasn't happy. Had to replace it again and choose then a Mahle-Clevite. Great price and a renowned manufacturer.
Runs smooth as silk.

Ozy, did your turbo shaft also actually break??
If not, how did your turbo fail??

 

[Diesel_lv]

I first went with Aftermarket and wasn't happy. Had to replace it again and choose then a Mahle-Clevite. Great price and a renowned manufacturer.
Runs smooth as silk.

You replaced the turbo w a Mahle-Clevite reman? My entire turbo is trash, impellers ground housing before ejecting through the exhaust. Complete turbo, not just center section required.

 

[Ozymandias]

No, brand new Mahle, im done with experimental parts.
Check Rockauto for it, I got mine there.

 

[seafish]

IME, turbo shafts rarely catastrophically break without something else going on...
Perhaps excessive fueling and over speeding of the turbo, a problem with oil flow to the turbo, which can be caused by either blockage of the supply line to the turbo or oil drain line from the turbo, perhaps missing proper oil change intervals.

That said, you DO have a higher mileage truck, and obviously parts often can and do simply fail.

Additionally, driving the truck with a failed turbo may well have led to metal and /or oil contamination of the intercooler and hoses...I would advise removal and cleaning of the IC and hoses, perhaps also inspecting the intake elbow and also a complete oil change.

Just my .02

 

[Ozymandias]

Partnumber# MAHLE / CLEVITE 286TC21010000

The part number is correct for your 305 engine, the picture at rockauto is wrong and shows a newer model charger.

 

[Ozymandias]

Ozy, did your turbo shaft also actually break??
If not, how did your turbo fail??

Just got a lot of play at the shaft, I caught it just a tad before the turbine would have hit the walls.
I routinely check for shaftplay at every oil change, so I knew that it had changed significantly within a short time.
I also heard it, but I hear a mouse cough if it comes to my truck, real annoying ability.

The second turbo then used oil and had another issue to, leaking exhaust gasses into the crankcase way more then acceptable. Heated my oil to unhealthy temperatures every time I had to use boost.

So I choose a Mahle-Clevite then.

 

[Diesel_lv]

@Ozymandias , how long have you had the Mahle? It's about $100 higher than high end "remans" so being that reasonably priced, I'm curious as to quality. I see it is a Geman company, hopefully not outsourcing.

Thanks

 

[Diesel_lv]

@seafish , thanks for the things to look into. I'm a stickler for oil, Rotella T6 n filter "Every" 5k and filter/top off "Every" 2,500 between full changes since new. I'm leaning towards age and 21yrs of periodic "turbo bark". I run an Edge EZ on level 3, 4" exhaust and no other mods since truck was 1 week old. Replaced all 6 injectors at 250k, one throw-out bearing n clutch at about 200k. That's it. She was running smooth as could be, 700 miles on that trip that day so far n then during above described scenario it just went.

Could hear the rattle of the impeller hitting housing, howling of bearings "assuming" for 1st mile, and then a "clank, clank" and then silent next 4 till I got signal n stopped.

I unfortunately did not think about the fact that oil will not be "directed/routed" back to drain pipe, but flowing through both exhaust and intake until during my 2 hr wait for the tow.

 

[Ozymandias]

@Ozymandias , how long have you had the Mahle? It's about $100 higher than high end "remans" so being that reasonably priced, I'm curious as to quality. I see it is a Geman company, hopefully not outsourcing.

Thanks

5000 miles around, put it in last November. Build quality is excellent, not the slightest noise or howl from it. I'm sure it will last a long time.
The slightly cheaper no-name one I put in the first time in 2022 was noisy from the beginning and always present.

It is made in China but made in Mahle factory to Mahle quality and build standard.
(Some are still made in Canada factory, you don't know ahead where the specific one is made that you finally get)

 

[Ozymandias]

I unfortunately did not think about the fact that oil will not be "directed/routed" back to drain pipe, but flowing through both exhaust and intake until during my 2 hr wait for the tow.

Your a very lucky man that you didn't had a runaway with that condition.

 

[Diesel_lv]

Your a very lucky man that you didn't had a runaway with that condition.

Extremely lucky from what I understand.

 

[Diesel_lv]

In reference to my 2nd question, cost of labor being what it is, do you folks think that if I cap off my feed line w a 12mmx1.5 O-ring plug, top off the oil, I can limp it home 180 miles as long as I keep EGT's in check?

 

[Ozymandias]

Yes, if you also plug the hole in the center housing between exhaust and intake where the shaft once was.
That's the Bush fix for a situation like this.
Long bolt, two washers in the appropriate size and a locknut - mechanical not poly because of the heat.

 

[Ozymandias]

To change the turbo you need about 3 hours if you know what you are doing.
And a torch to heat the old housing to get the 2 studs out.

 

[Diesel_lv]

To change the turbo you need about 3 hours if you know what you are doing.
And a torch to heat the old housing to get the 2 studs out.

Ya, turbo replacement is easy at home. But shops charge a book hr/rate. If book says 5 hrs, they charge 5 even if 3hrs was used. I'm going to replace intercooler to avoid oil contamination/plugging and boost hoses. So probably much cheaper doing at home.

 

[Diesel_lv]

@Ozymandias , another quick question. Is the female end of the feed line that goes into the top of the turbo an AN fitting or an ORB O-ring type fitting. If ORB, I have that size, if AN, I'd need size so I can get plug. Thanks

 

[NIsaacs]

Maybe plug it at the filter housing, should be just 1/8" pipe thread. Is the impeller/shaft still in the exhaust pipe somewhere?

 

[Diesel_lv]

Maybe plug it at the filter housing, should be just 1/8" pipe thread. Is the impeller/shaft still in the exhaust pipe somewhere?

That's an even easier idea. Thanks. I'm truly not sure. It's a 4" stainless mandrel w a Donalson resonator that is straight through. If it is in the tail pipe, it's just gonna rattle a little till it falls out. The pipe is completely straight to the side of the bed exit, no upward bends at all.