Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Broken 12mm ARP headstud?

[FordCummins]

While adjusting the valves on my truck, noticed that one of the "middle" length head studs, (between cylinders 1 and 2) was loose, grabbed it and pulled about 3-4" of stud out. Its been at least 20k since I last checked the valves so I have no idea how long it has been broken. Studs were installed roughly 60k miles ago, when I did the engine swap. Im hoping that I can drill it and use an easy out since I have plenty of room to work.



Anybody ever run across a broken head stud before? Truck only has a Super B turbo (S300) which rarely sees more than 40lbs of boost while playing around, and usually the max is 25 PSI or so when towing. Truck has never used a drop of coolant, and there is no mixing of coolant or oil so thats a plus. Studs were installed and torqued following the ARP instructions and advice from Scheid. They were only retorqued once after the initial hot/cold cycle.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

contact Greg Hogue, he'll send you out a replacement ASAP!

 

[Forrest Nearing]

BTW, did Scheid tell you to overtorque them?

 

[FordCummins]

Since it was several years ago, Im not gonna stand by this statement as being 100% accurate, but I do believe the numbers 50, 100 and 125 stand out in my head as the 3 stage increments I was told to use. I did find all the original instruction sheets the other day, so I will go through them and look to see what they said.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

125 is fine... I know some people do 150, etc.



the lube you use is important too, but I'm assuming you used the moly that came in the package

 

[FordCummins]

Yep, moly lube from ARP was used. Maybe it wasnt 125, and it was 150 instead. That number sounds halfway familiar too, but it was a long time ago.....

At 150 I could see a problem developing if they were only designed to go to 125. Maybe I will call ARP tomorrow and discuss it with them.

 

[FordCummins]

I examined the stud a little more closely tonight. It only appears to be down in the head about 2". With a little luck, a left handed bit and an easy out with have the remainder of the stud out. Now the question is, do I pull the head off anyway and check the fire rings and head gasket or just slap it back together?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

if you've got access to a stick welder, you can use a stud puller rod, get a sleeve/collar that will locate the rod in the hole, zap the stud, and then turn the rod w/ some vise grips. it should back out easily (if you installed them finger tight)