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Broken bed bolt advise/ideas/thoughts

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---Truck is a 2014 2500 crew cab, short bed, w/ G56---

This is a story with an unhappy ending (for now).

In order to fit an aftermarket rear bumper and hitch (Reunel) I need to remove the OE trailer hitch. I'd read a few sources (including here) that said to remove the OE hitch, the bed needs to be lifted a bit because the mounting plates sit atop the frame. That’s what it looks like too, simple enough.

Even without first using the information in this TDR tread [https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/247401-Bed-removal] it seemed pretty simple and obvious to me where the bolts run up through the bottom of the frame and into the bed. All went well removing the four rearward bolts, two on each side...

The two forward bolts, one on each side, were not budging even with an impact gun (what I used on the rear four). I used my breaker bar, which did indeed snap the bolt, flush with the body.

I have a heavy slide-in camper that mounts to the bed, so this not something I can jury-rig. My truck is sitting with the rear bumper off, the four rear bolts out, one front bolt that made a bad noise and I stopped (not snapped yet), and one broken-off and stuck in the captive/OE threads.

Partially because I'm supposed to be installing several other parts and then driving this truck (with the slide-in camper) on a long, rugged trip in 2.5 weeks, I'm thinking of seeking professional help. There is a local diesel shop I used once years ago for an engine repair job I didn't want to tackle, I’ll call them tomorrow. My only other idea is the dealer, but I'm reluctant to go there. Before or after I hear what these ‘pros’ have to say, I’d love to hear what the enthusiasts and pros here in TDR-land think is the best fix.

My thinking and fear is that this is now a much bigger project and problem. The bolt that is snapped is the left/front, and access from underneath is poor. I'm guessing to get the partial bolt out that the bed might now need to be completely removed, the bolt drilled out from the top of the frame, then re-tapped. If the threads are ruined and beyond repair I guess a new bolt can be run through the top of the bed with appropriate washers? Not exactly what I want to do on my '14 with only 7,000 miles, but it needs to be rock solid to hold the camper in the bed, etc.

Thanks for input guys.

James
 
It is hard to solve the problem from a distance, but here are a couple thoughts. Try heat--probably it is enough to use a propane torch. If that doesn't work, an acetylene torch (carefully). Don't let the flame travel to the fuel tank or lines, or wiring harness, etc. The factory probably uses a type of loctite on those bolts, and that is why they are so hard to remove. Regarding the broken one, you might be able to drill it out, but if not, see if you can simply drill a new hole through the frame bracket and the bed hat section near the original place, and put in a new bolt and nut. Without going outside tonight to look at mine, I think the bed bolts to brackets welded onto the frame, not to the boxed frame rails themselves.
 
Thanks for the input Joe. Helping from afar is difficult I know, but I appreciate the attempts. Sometimes something somebody shares triggers something... see below.

Yes, the bolts have tons of light blue loctite on them, at least the rear four do that came out without much difficulty. Heat is a good classic suggestion, maybe even a heat gun on high would work on the right side, which is not yet snapped and is away from the fuel lines/tank.

Drilling out the broken left bolt from under the truck will be a challenge, I've had limited success drilling much smaller bolts where access and leverage was much better. From the top might be easier, but hitting the target is likely the challenge there.

But something you said about the mounting hat/frame helped me go to my garage for a look and now I have an idea...
 
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photo.jpg


This is a picture of the left-front frame mounting hat and the bottom of the bed. The hole in the middle is for the snapped bolt. To the right is a nice, clean, extra hole in the frame mount.

With my past experiences and limited success drilling-out stripped and broken bolts, I don't look forward to, nor am I am confident about drilling the hefty broken bolt. However with the additional, slightly inboard hole already present in the frame mount, I think I could/should just drill up through that existing hole with a right-angle drill, through and out the top of the bed. Add the best hardware I can find (grade 8 or stainless?), and call if fixed. Good idea, right?

Even with a right-angle drill access is tight and it will not be an easy drill (I just crawled under the truck and checked with drill in-hand). But if I can drill a centered pilot hole with a smaller, shorter bit, and punch through to the top, then I can drill a larger hole from the top of the bed, down.

photo.jpg
 
I'd either drill the hole with a right angle drill or whatever fits, or make a big stepped "washer". The washer will have a step being the thickness of the frame bracket, and use the nice threaded nut outboard of the bracket, with the lip of the washer going over the bracket. Make it thick so it won't bend. The hole is probably metric; use a grade 12.9 bolt. Your "washer" could even have a nub welded to it to fit into the bracket hole where the broken bolt is, and another where the blind hole in the bracket is.
 
Thanks and agreed Joe. Either or both should work. Presently I like the drill a new hole idea, partially because I'm not a fabricator and getting a buddy to make me something this weekend might be too much of a rush. I'm not able to work on this today, back at it tomorrow...
 
I'm looking at this wondering if that threaded plate is simply lightly tacked into position for ease in assembly. And if there is room to swing it or slide it then I would knock it free using the broken bolt to beat on and then slide/spin it over until you have the good threaded hole in position. It would fetch up on something or you could hold it with an alignment punch up through the free bed hole while tightening it.

This is theory only and I may be missing something where I can't see everything..........if it is wrapped with steel then of course you are out of luck. I would certainly check it.
 
The bed is not that hard to remove if you have access to a two post hoist. I hate working in tight spots and would much prefer to mark the holes for new bolts, lift the bed off, drive the truck out, work on it out in the open, then reinstall. Make sure you remove or break off the other bolt before you start so you know what your in for before you get started.
 
Make sure you remove or break off the other bolt before you start so you know what your in for before you get started.

The remaining, not yet snapped or removed right-front bolt is where I will start tomorrow. After applying heat I'll give it another try. Depending on my success and satisfaction with Friday and Saturday's work, I can have a metal-working buddy's help on Sunday.

Another friend has a lift I could use to remove the bed... trouble is I have some very pressing deadlines involving this truck project and other stuff too, with about 2.5 weeks before heading out of state [I really need about 4+ weeks]. So if I can avoid removing the bed [for now?] it might save me a day or more.
 
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Hitch slides off the rear

I spoke with the former owner of Reunel bumpers and he shared that the OE hitch slides off the rear, straight off the end, doesn't lift of move laterally, a helpful tidbit.

He also said he's not sure if his employees loosened the front bed bolts to remove the OE hitch. However, they used a forklift to lift the rear of the bed about 2". Flexing the bed with a forklift is a very different thing than trying to do this with common tools. With all but the right-front bolt removed I can lift up on the bed a bit, but not two inches.

He also shared some hitches need a little persuasion to remove, a big hammer might help.
 
Progress report

Last night I used a heat gun to heat the final, right-front bolt and it came out easily. Then I lifted and blocked the bed up, pulled the hitch receiver, and lowered the bed.

Yesterday I my met with my metal working buddy, and we designed and discussed a stepped plate as suggested above by Joe Donnelly that would use the extra, OE, threaded hole that is just outside the frame. The plan is to forge a metal plate/bracket, use the extra OE hole, plus the hole I plan to drill mentioned earlier. We are both very confident this will be clean, and likely stronger than stock.

However, I've lifted, shoved, and rotated the loose bed over enough to now expose the bottom of broken bolt, without completely removing the bed. I need to make a tool run this morning, but I'm going to attempt removing the snapped OE bolt with heat, drill, easy out,etc. If I cannot removed it, we will make the plate and it will be STOUT.
 
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The last thread of the broken bolt may be bent, so a right hand bit would jam the thread instead of sending the bolt through the nut. Thus, you may be better off with a decent sized left hand drill bit and if lucky and the bolt stub is heated, you may turn it out while drilling it.
 
I feel your pain on the deadline, but share the thought that numerous times I've avoided doing it the proper/best way because it would be too slow or I didn't have the tools, parts, hoist etc, only in the end to realise it took me longer in the end for a less good outcome. I don't know enough to know if bed removal is the best way, but sometimes 3-4 hours of work on something like that might save 4-5 hours on the workaround fix. Just a thought. Good luck. Hope you get it sorted.
 
The last thread of the broken bolt may be bent, so a right hand bit would jam the thread instead of sending the bolt through the nut. Thus, you may be better off with a decent sized left hand drill bit and if lucky and the bolt stub is heated, you may turn it out while drilling it.

Yes, my plan is to try and reverse out the bolt. Last night I found and retrieved the snapped-off head, it broke just below the head, the whole bolt is inside the captive nut in the bed mounting hat.
 
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