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Broken Bolts in AL Trans Case

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Looking for shop tips to remove broken bolts and minimize damage.



Working on a VW Beetle 1. 9L TDI. During the trans removal (per Alldata) the d-side trans mount bracket must be removed, 3 10MM grade 10. 9 bolts are threaded into case. Two broke off, one pulled out all of the threads as it came out. I have no reason to believe that trans had been previously R&R. The locking compound is a blue color, remember it's VW. None of the other bolts in the job were even super tight.



The case end cover can be removed if heat is your been there done that suggestion. As far as drilling, I think I can set this up on a Bridgeport, mill off the stubs, temporarily attach the bracket and iuse ts existing correct holes as a center location guide to drill out the hole.



Thanks,



Gary
 
Gary,



The last couple I had to fix, I was able to catch a thread or two with a similar thread nut and then used my MIG welder to fill in the balance of the nut with weld material. Then splashed a bit of water on it, wrenched it right out very easily. I supposed the heat and rapid cooling broke the galvanitic bond that had set up.

If you go the drill route I found some left hand twist drill bits at Harbor Freight that seem to work better than any other of the specialty type tools I have tried. Just my 2 cents.



Bill
 
Anything that has loctite on it should be heated. Loctite will give up at 4-500 deg f. welding a nut on the shank will work well, and provide the needed heat to release the loctite. Do not cool it quickly or the bolt will become very brittle and be more apt to break off again and be extremely difficult to drill.

-Scott
 
Bill,

Scott,



Thanks for the ideas. I ain't looking forward to this one. We do have an acetelyne torch and MIG welder,



What a way to start a week, at least I don't have someone waiting in the lobby to get it back.



Gary
 
Gary, Remember 2 things. The aluminum casing will rob the heat quickly from the stud. The aluminum will melt at ~1200*F. Use a temp stick on the aluminum and concentrate the heat on the stud. Just my 2cents;). Hope you are successful! GregH
 
Greg,



You come out here and help, WHEN we are sucessful I'll buy lunch. Either country buffet, or shrimp and grits.



The video shows the concept, but lots of variables as you point out.
 
If you were closer, I would be in yer way all the time:-laf! PS What kind of torch are you going to use? Dont use a rosebud! To much heat in a large area. Use a welding tip. Concentrate on the stud. The nut welded onto the stud is a great idea. GregH
 
Some additional tricks

Gary, Another thought came to my mind:eek:. When installing the nut on the stud, leave some room to tighten (bump) the stud a little (After the recommended preheating of the stud), then loosen. MAN! You dont know how bad I wished I could be there to give you a hand:{. GregH
 
Greg,



I have some flange nuts, we have MIG and I was thinking of a SMALL tip to concentrate the heat on the stud at either end. And all of this is after removing the end cover and cleaning up the internal area.



Gonna get interesting.



Thanks,



Gary
 
Ahh, the sweet smell of sucess, or is that acetelyene?

The planets lined up today for once, got the bolts out, slicker than I ever imagened.



I consulted a Canadian cohort of mine that has many customers that speak the lingo of VeeDubbery and he confided that said bolts breaking are a common occourance, even w/o a trans R&R. Their solution was the almighty drill bit and the incorrectly named e-z-out.



But after reviewing the MANUFACTURER's (what a concept, consulting a supplier for advice!) website and their VIDEO and consulting with the Shop Team here at TDR, this was over before you could say bygoergewhattheheckwasthatthatijustdid.



Photo attached, tomorrow the clutch and almost all of this is being video'd for our growing video clutch library.



Greg, we still got SC BBQ out here and pig pickings too.



Thanks guys.
 
IMHO, Nothing starts an arguement as to who makes it the best or where do you get the best BBQ. That's another thread altogether, but I do tip my hat of the day to our time spent just outside OKC, those folks taught me a thing or two about SLOW COOKED IN SMOKE, is SC things are done many different ways and you could possibly tell where in SC someone is from by asking what kinda sauce they like.



Also a tip of the welding helment to WCPoe and SRadke, been there done that advice is priceless, we need more of that and less, well, you know what the other answers are somedays.



How did I get talked into a clutch job on a VW with the engine in the front, a radiator and 4 in a row w/o sparkplugs, I'll never know.
 
Gary, I like slow smoked with spicy sauce. We get Texas style around here. Two places I like are Bennets BBQ and Rib City. There is also Hoke's BBQ. They are really to expensive for me. IMHO, Rib City is the best. There have been some small outfits that have come and gone over the years with huge commercial smokers and all import their hardwood for the smoke.

Glad to have been part of your consultation team. We all have pieces of the puzzle. YOU were the one that put it together! Congratulations! GregH
 
Greg,



Let's see we've gone from broken bolts to advice to fixed to BBQ and no one has said anything nasty at all, nice thread replys.



OK, this Saturday, I have been ordered to smoke about 10 lbs of country sausage for my oldest daughters baby shower, now I feel olderrrrr. Smoked with local hickory, then some will be put in a crock pot with a Carolina sauce, Pee Dee River Swamp Sauce. I use it for dipping mostly, not thick, but has a nice kick to it.



This is from my backyard, doing some ribs a while back. Not a fancy rig, but it has served well, about 14 years old.



What gets me when you smoke em is the hickory smoke fills the area and then the P I G juices start doing their thing, I can wait, I can wait, I can wait.



Maybe wee need a TDR backyard cooking channel?



Hank Hill no offense but NO PROPANE this time, OK?
 
Gary! Whats that green stuff on the ground around the BBQ cooker. MAN! My ground is white, and 3' deep:-laf! It'll be 2 more months before we start to see green GRASS!:D. That is if we dont get 10' more of the white stuff Oo. . Greg
 
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