Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Broken cam gear/ KDP still in place

[cluckmaster]

I pulled my timing cover, b/c I had 1/4 valve gap and couldn't get the truck started. Thought the KDP was the culprit, but the pin is in place still. However, the cam gear is broke. Any ideas on what would cause this? Had good oil pressure, oil was clean, etc. Getting ready now to pull the head. Thanks.



97 SLT 2500 auto 4x4/ 252k mi (160k on motor)/ #11 plate/ straight piped/ Lukes linked/ 35" MT Claws

 

[DSiemens]

A gear housing bolt may have come out or the cam gear was improperly heated/installed.

 

[cluckmaster]

Well, I got the head off and the pushrods are bent really bad, but it looks like the valves are ok. Guess I need to pull the cam to check it.



While I had the head off, I really wanted to install a head stud kit, but after fighting to get the pushrods out while pulling the head, it seems like I'd have to pull the whole engine to do the head studs. Otherwise, I don't think the head would fit over the studs in the rear where the engine is up under the cowl.



97 SLT 2500 auto 4x4/ 252k mi (160k on motor)/ #11 plate/ straight piped/ Lukes linked/ 35" MT Claws

 

[Deerediesel]

You can get the studs in the back of the head by taking off the windshield wipers and the cowl, youll see a couple rubber plugs, take them out and you can sneek the push rods and studs in there no prob. you can use 1/2" wooden dowl rods about 16" long to stick in the lifters to pull them up so you can pull the cam. Thought this would help if you didnt already know. I have seen a housing bolt come out and rub the s**t out of the came gear so that could be a possiility like DSiemens said.

Shane

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Your valves are tweaked. They hit flat on the pistons but you need to have them checked and a valve job done. You have to find out what caused the cam gear to break--the source of the valve and pushrod issue.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

No need to remove the cowl or windshield wipers to install studs. I was able to slip all my studs in easily by removing the two rubber plugs under the cowl. The plugs are above cylinder 5 and 6.

 

[cluckmaster]

Thanks. After you guys got the stud kit in, were you then able to slide the head back over the studs to set it on? It doesn't seem like there's room back under the cowl. Luckily, we did find one of those plugs to get the rear pushrods out.



Also, do we need to pull the cam with the cam gear, or is it possible to pull just the gear? I seem to recall running across a thread where someone had problems trying to pull just the gear and popped a plug out of the rear of the engine. I'm waiting on the delivery of my repair manual- sorry for all of the questions.



97 SLT 2500 auto 4x4/ 252k mi (160k on motor)/ #11 plate/ straight piped/ Lukes linked/ 35" MT Claws

 

[moparguy]

I think the rear plug was popped out during the cam re-install.



While I haven't tried it, several others have reported loosening the cab mount bolts and jacking the body up 4" or so to get a bit of extra room at the rear of the head. If I ever need to pull mine, I'm gonna try it. I don't do real well in tight quarters.



Also, I'd listen to Joe D. , he doesn't post much these days but he is the man when it comes to our engines.





Good luck, RR

 

[cluckmaster]

yeah, I'm taking the head in to be checked and I'll have them check the valves as well. Assuming they're tweaked, I was thinking about ordering a set of valves from Piers- they have high flow and super high flow. I'm assuming they're just a different design and not oversized. Anybody have any experience with these? Or do you recommend staying with stock valves?



As I put this thing back together, I'm looking at killing the KDP, going w/ high flow valves, possibly a head stud kit, a 3 or 4k GSK, and MAYBE a set of 370s. Depends on what everything costs. But I hate to put everything back together without making some upgrades.



97 SLT 2500 auto 4x4/ 252k mi (160k on motor)/ #11 plate/ straight piped/ Lukes linked/ 35" MT Claws

 

[cluckmaster]

And bump the timing up to 15. 5 or 16*.



97 SLT 2500 auto 4x4/ 252k mi (160k on motor)/ #11 plate/ straight piped/ Lukes linked/ 35" MT Claws

 

[cluckmaster]

OK-head's in the shop. Valves are getting replaced. If the machine shop magnafluxes the camshaft to check for cracks or breaks, and checks it for straightness, is there a possibility it could be twisted?



And please excuse my last post- I have since realized that the high flow valves on Piers site are delivery valves.



97 SLT 2500 auto 4x4/ 252k mi (160k on motor)/ #11 plate/ straight piped/ Lukes linked/ 35" MT Claws

 

[Forrest]

Wow ... with that cam out, I'd for sure be putting in an aftermarket. What an opportunity Oo.

 

[biggy238]

Am I missing the post or doesn't the head go on and then the studs? It's not something i've looked into and just took as commonplace. I'm planning on studs when I get back to school and have the time and facilities.

 

[cluckmaster]

Well, got the word from the engine shop- all of the valves are good!! Checked them all on the machine. Now just have to pull the cam and have it checked.



Yeah- this would be a great time to throw in a new cam, but is it worth it if the old on is still good and I'm still working on the more obvious upgrades like injectors, GSK, timing, intake, etc? I'm working on a limited budget and want to get the biggest bang for my buck. What kind of fuel mileage increase would I see w/ a new cam?



97 SLT 2500 auto 4x4/ 252k mi (160k on motor)/ #11 plate/ straight piped/ Lukes linked/ 35" MT Claws

 

[DLane]

I would go with a cam now. Even if you have to wait till later on all your other mods, You have your engine down now. The others you want do not require this amount of disasembly. JMNHO :-laf

 

[cluckmaster]

I can't locate a cam gear anywhere. Dealer won't sell one w/out the cam, and NAPA said it's a dealer only part. Any ideas? Maybe I will have to get a new cam. Who makes a good cam (don't need billett). I've heard some good stuff about Piers. Anybody know about Enterprise cams?



97 SLT 2500 auto 4x4/ 252k mi (160k on motor)/ #11 plate/ straight piped/ Lukes linked/ 35" MT Claws

 

[DSiemens]

Have you tried Cummins for a cam gear? I'd do the cam as you are there already. I installed a PDR cam and I picked up a about a MPG, spool-up is quicker and it did help to reduce EGT. If Cummins will not sell you a cam gear, Piers will.

Dan

 

[cluckmaster]

Finally pulled the cam out today and it's fine. All of the housing bolts are there as far as I can tell, and I can't see where anything has fallen out to break this cam gear. The teeth are fine- it's the center of the gear (where the holes are to get to the thrust plate bolts) that snapped off.



Even though the cam is good, I think I'm going to go ahead and get a custom ground cam from Greg Hogue along with a new cam gear. Does anyone run one of these?



Also, can I reuse the lifters in this engine?



97 SLT 2500 auto 4x4/ 252k mi (160k on motor)/ #11 plate/ straight piped/ Lukes linked/ 35" MT Claws/ 3GSK and DiProcol Optix gauges on the way!!!

 

[WDimig]

i agree, now is the time to put a good cam in the truck, while not the best bang for your buck, the performance cam will help out with your over all power band, the engine will run smoother and will help smoke and air flow once your able to get some fuel running to that engine.





wes

 

[crabman]

cluckmaster,

I think that Fishin Guide installed a cam in his rig. Send him a PM and see what he says.

crabman