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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission broken map light

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch mechanic

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear Brake Hop

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Yes just had it happen to me. The switch just came apart inside the light. You can put it back together with alittle JB Weld. Just becareful when pulling down the overhead down because the springs from the switch maybe inside the lens and they are tiny. The switch operates just like a retractable ball point pen.
 
Same here. '01 2500 Quad. I removed overhead console. Kinda tricky. Two forward clips inside remote control holder. Push on clips with thumb and finger at the same time. Console snaps down, then slide console slightly forward and lower. Mine did not come down easily and felt like I was going to break something "plastic". If you gently peal back the covering found inside the sunglasses holder you can see how the rear clips hold up the console. Unplug wire harness. Now you can take the whole thing out of the truck and to a well lit area for inspection. The buttons on both map lights are spring loaded. If you look at the back you can see the two switches. Mine actually split in half because of the pressure of pushing on the lense. There is a little white geared plastic cam that looks like the end of a ink pen button. It rotates everytime you reach up and push on the lense to turn off and on. I used a high quality clear glue

to glue the wafer like switch back together. Don't let the glue get into the cam or spring. If it broke the same way mine did you'll see how the switches work. I used scotch tape to keep everything still until the glue set up. I then attached (glued) a plastic backing plate behind both switches to provide back pressure when I used the map lights in the future. It melted once I left my doors opened too long. Basically I soldered around the switches with glue. I push on the map lights softly. Don't leave them on for a long time (they get pretty hot) and I try to prevent passengers from poking them hard. I did not bother to price the entire console. My remote holder now has five swicthes in it. Exhaust Brake on/off switch, TorcLoc Switch, Beacon Switch, Aux Back-up light switch and Work-light switch. I had to modifly the console and do allot of soldereing. All the wires (incuding antenna and phone mic wires) run under head liner, over to A pillar then down past fuse box. Edge A-pillar Attitude mount gave plenty of space for all the wires. Hope this helps.
 
had to jb weld mine yesterday. It wasn't hard to fix just had to make sure and not loose any of the parts. It works kinda like a retractable pen with the spring and all.
 
My daughters 01 did the same thing. I ordered the harness assembly from Genuine Dodge - Mopar parts catalog. I can't find the receit, but I remember it was about 25 dollars. Very simple to replace once the console is down. This covers both lights. Just another option.
 
If you are CB like me, after you fix it, then it falls apart again, you can mess with the wires a little so that the map lights just come on when you turn the dial up. They do this anyway,this will just not allow you to turn them on independently. So to turn on all lights, I turn up the dimmer dial. My 1 map is busted and 1 map working, but I don't ever touch it.
 
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Console Overhead console Wire harness W/temp and compass W/t

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<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=titletext align=middle colSpan=4>Part Number Search Results : OEM Catalog </TD></TR><TR><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #ff9933 1px solid">Item Number</TD><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #ff9933 1px solid" align=right>MSRP</TD><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #ff9933 1px solid" align=right>Core Price</TD><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #ff9933 1px solid" align=right>Price</TD></TR><TR><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top>5013609AA</TD><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top align=right>$20. 70</TD><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top align=right>$0. 00</TD><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top align=right>$14. 26</TD></TR><TR><TD class=tabletext colSpan=4>

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Fixed both of mine today. I wrapped them in with some 20 gauge utility wire (see the attached photos). It required drilling very small holes in the light assembly. I did not use any glue. It's a solid fix and no worries about getting glue on the contacts and mechanisms.
 
My drivers side overhead map light is out, switch works fine but no light, either by using push switch or opening door. How do you just change the bulb? That is what I assume the problem is.
 
A detent on the lens holds it inside the cavity. Use a thin screwdriver and carefully pry the lens open from the middle of the push button side where the detent is, opposite the hinge. The lens will need to flex slightly to allow the detent to disengage. The lens will swing out like a door to give you access to the bulb. Carefully snap it back in place to close.
 
Thanks. Stuck a small screwdriver in there to pry off the cover and the light came on works fine now. ????



When mine broke the switch fell apart. Sometimes a bump would turn it on and it would stay on and not go off. I ultimately removed the bulb and later replaced the harness. When broke they do funky things!!!
 
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