Broken Throttle Linkage

[BertM]

What is the fix for the ball and socket linkage at the injector pump to cable pivot? My socket jumped off yesterday and it will not stay on without duct tape assistance. I do not see a keeper ring or anything else that is missing. New part #, tape?
I am glad that the beast will run at idle and 4 lo because I was in the middle of the street.
94 2500, 4x4, 5 speed.

 

[Iceman1]

BertM, same thing happened on the 94 I used to have. A temp fix was a tyrap until I could get it replaced. Sorry I can't give other options. Hope that helps. Have a Good Day. .

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1997 3500 SLT, Ext cab, 5spd, TST #11, GV Aux Trans, BD exhaust, Kelderman Air Ride, 60 Gallon fuel tank, Clifford Security, Reese 20k 4way 5th wheel hitch, Boost/EGT gauges, K&N air filter, Rancho RS9000 shocks, Brush Guard, DZee full length running boards.

 

[John Dimartino]

I think the parts are much cheaper at a Cummins dealer,than a Dodge dealer.

 

[gitchesum]

My 94 had the same problem. $86. 00 out the door installed. $48. 00 for the labor, $38 for the parts and tax. Part number was 05011959AA at the dealership. I would also check the Cummins store as they are usually half the price of Dodge. Their part number is different than the one above

One thing to check though, make sure they tighten all the jam nuts on it. One of mine was left loose and it vibrates so much it wore the threads down and came apart.
Like you, I was lucky the truck would finish climbing the bridge at idle or I would have been stuck there for a while trying to fix it.

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Curtis Harris

"JAWS"(The Great White)
Updated 11/19/00
1997 Club Cab Dualie
correctly valved 5 speed. White, Brown Manf. brushguard and rear bumper,Sprayed in liner, Stock plate and AFC properly adjusted. Straight pipe. That's all for now. More to come.

[This message has been edited by gitchesum (edited 12-29-2000). ]

 

[Sled Puller]

My 94, same problem. In 1996, the plastic broke. Dodge sold me the kit for about $20 I believe. It had two steel ends, I replaced them both, not just the wore out one.
Not a bad job, but there is some blind work, and twisting about to do it.

WHY DID CUMMINS PUT PLASTIC ENDS ON? THAT IS CRAP.
BTW, my 100,000 warranty did not cover it. LOL They called it an "adjustable part" sorry.

Gene

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1997 Cummins Dodge 4x4 Bombed & Amsoiled. Amsoil Premiere Direct Jobber, Member of: NRA Business Alliance, GLTDR, WANTED: Wrecked Dodges.
www.awdist.com

 

[Joe G.]

Bert,

There is more than one version of the linkage rod. Your's is probably like mine. There is an almost invisable little wire clip that holds it on the ball. If you look at the end of the ball oposite the rod you will see a little spot if it's like the one I have. This is the end of a hole that runs thru the ball parallel to the rod. The little wire clip goes thru this hole and then wraps around the ball just where the ball meets the part the rod screws into. It's hard to see. There should be a tiny piece of folded over wire sticking out about 1/16" from the grove at the base of the ball. If you pull up on this the wire clip will unwrap from around the ball and you can pull the clip out of the ball. If the little wire clip is missing it won't stay on. The other end of the throttle rod has the same clip so you can see what it looks like if it's missing.

I hope this is understandable.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver




[This message has been edited by Joe G. (edited 12-29-2000). ]

 

[rhoads]

Tie wrap... ...
you can get the ends from cummins if i remember right they are about $ 12. cant remember if that included ups to the house they had to order from the factory.
A caution here when you replace or don't need them yet "tomarrow" INSTALL the tie wrap to both ends.
I installed new ends and about 25k later they poped off again. Off the back it goes to an idle--off the front mine went to wide open and that is tricky with no place to get over.
Once i used the tin foil from a gum warper folded a piece about an inch sq. 4 times put over the ball stud- snaped to gether and held it in place k's of miles.
the tie wrap should be black(ozone attacts the white & heat) the ones about 1/8-3/16 work great. Leave it just loose enough to let the spherical joint's to move freely.
Those new ends i installed and later poped of have been held in place this way for about 100 k now. Safty feature also!!!!!!!!

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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.

 

[BertM]

Thanks for the replies. I finally got around to fixing the ball joint this weekend. I never could find the factory wire that holds it on, even after looking at the good side. I used a body bolt clip from a ford, opened it up for the ball spread, and cliped it around the assembly. It works great, the bolt hole in clip centers it on the ball and the flat grabs behind the lever side. A little grease to prevent wear thru, and its done.