Bucking/ Spuddering Fixed!!!

[Devildog]

I had the same problem as you guys, around 30lbs of boost she started the bucking crap!



The fix is, I bought a tube of GC Electronics series II conductive grease and anti-oxident, part number 19-820 (not DIE-ELECTRIC grease). Applied it carefully using a tooth pick to all the female parts (sockets) of my Comp box connectors ie... map sensor plug, data port plug and the fuel pump connector, wiped off all the excess and reassembled. Took her for a test drive and everything is perfect, she climbs right to 42lbs at WOT and NO BUCKING total time for the repair about 15 minutes and the tube of grease around $3. 25 per tube.

Try this fix before you do anything else, It may save you all kinds of time, money and aggravation. Good luck.

 

[Whitmore]

You Develdog you

Thats Great, now your using your head for something besides a hat rack



Makes perfectly good sence to me , gotta have good conductivity on the components and connections, Good goin Develdog... ... ... . you-da-man you-da-man

 

[Marco]

Good job!

Altough I don't think that it's the fix for everybody.

Some might have your same problem, others not.



Time will tell.



Marco

 

[GGades]

Can you tell us where you picked up the wonder spoo?

 

[Devildog]

Any self respecting electronic supply house should have it. If you can't find the GC product just look for a good "conductive/anti-ox" grease.

 

[KatDiesel]

Just curious... . you still have the KwikSpool on your truck? Hows it holding up? I miss that turbo... ... . it was flat out fun. Found pieces of it in my muffler... brought back memories



Just curious.

 

[Devildog]

LOL

It's holding up great and sounds good too! I hope I don't run in to your misfortune..... However I am considering the B-1 bomber, If you know anyone interested in a slightly used Kwikspool ????? let me Know

 

[GDouglas]

I had a similar bucking problem with a code for communication failure between FPM and the ECM. I disconnected my DDTTPM and it ran fine. I then took some WD-40 and sprayed the connections to the box before plugging them back in and I have not had any more problems since then(about 2 months ago). Hopefully a fix this simple can cure most of our hesitation and bucking concerns.

 

[WMann]

I bought and installed my comp box about two months ago. Some of the connectors had some (Ibelieve) purple grease on them. I used a tooth pick to steal some of the extra grease off of the connectors and I put the grease on every electrical connection including the power wire going to the fuse box. So far I have not had any problems with the way the truck runs (As I pounding on a wood table).



Because the truck still has the stock clutch I have been easy on it. I have only gotten on the truck two times on level five and the sub menu was on level three. I was in fifth gear and I got on it at two thousand rpm's. What a rush. I keep the box on level one with the sub menu on level one for normal driving and If I want to play some I go to level three with the sub menu set at level three and I don't get on it below two thousand rpm. I am determined not to abuse this clutch until I have a replacement sitting in the garage.



I hope that all of the stumbling problems can be traced back to faulty connections.



Wayne

 

[Jetpilot]

I cleaned and greased all my connections to my DD-Ultimate Fueling Module but it did not help with my shudder problem. Mine seems to shudder only in levels 4 and 5, and then only around 1700-2000 when light on the throttle. The symptoms are not present under moderate or heavy throttle. The box has been replaced but this did not cure the problem... ... Hope we can figure this one out soon!



Doug

 

[GDouglas]

Maybe some of you that are running the higher level fueling boxes may look at the condition of your center bearing isolator. When these get some slack in them, they can bounce around under high hp levels. Just something simple to check thats free.

 

[jwhite1]

Bucking 24 valver

I certainly hope Devildog has the solution to this bucking mess. It has about driven me nuts, and I know a lot of others as well. I even talked directly to Cummins the other day, and they had no fixes in mind. I believed it to be electrical all the time, but had no idea where. If a tube of grease will solve this problem, I'll be very happy, and for sure will be caught trying this trick. I know all of us love our Cummins Diesels, and hate to have problems like this one. I suppose this has been about the biggest gripe with these 24 valve engines that I know of. I bought my truck to work, and I want it to perform properly. I have a Power Puck on it, and it gives the added HP and torque I need, but this bucking mess has to go. One more thought- I reguarly use Standadyne fuel conditioner which gives an added 1/2 to 1 mile per gallon more mileage. Thanks to all who are trying to help solve this problem and good luck to the rest of you guys. J White

 

[Bigsaint]

Doug, I experience the same with the TST box on any level beyond 6 ( max. is 9). Guessing here that our boxes are very similar in nature ( both competition grade). I didn't have the shudder with the step 3 injectors, it appeared only after I put in the 5's. I even tried removing the Edge EZ box as I thought it my be a issue with a timing conflict, not the case.



For me, if I ease into the throttle at any level, right up to 9, I have very little shudder except the defueling shudder when I let off. If I hammer it in the higher levels it really feels bad, a heavy shudder. All my connections are greased with dielectric and I don't set any codes. FP is also where it should be.



While this isn't a major concern for me as I normally just drive with the TST off, it sure would be nice to not have to ease into the throttle when I'm playing with the TST box. I'm going to give TST a call on Monday and see what they have to say.



GDouglas... at the risk of sounding like an idiot, whats a center bearing isolater... where is it and how do I check same for slack ???



Scott W.

 

[jmeehan]

I believe he ment the carrier bearing on the rear drive shaft.

 

[GDouglas]

The carrier bearing on the 2 piece driveshafts has a rubber cushion around the actual bearing. Then on the outside of the rubber, there is the metal case which has the 2 mounting ears on it. Over time the rubber part will have lost motion(space) between it and the outer metal case. This is sometimes the cause of a driveline rumble/shudder when carrying heavy loads or passing a lot of hp down the line.

 

[Bigsaint]

Thank You !!! I doubt that is my problem, as it never did it with 1200 lbs. in the bed or under any other cirmcustances, other than what I posted above. Good info though



Scott W.

 

[EScott]

Originally posted by Bigsaint

For me, if I ease into the throttle at any level, right up to 9, I have very little shudder except the defueling shudder when I let off. If I hammer it in the higher levels it really feels bad, a heavy shudder. All my connections are greased with dielectric and I don't set any codes. FP is also where it should be.

I have the TST PowerMax Comp, and have found the shudder to be the worst if I let off the throttle slowly while set at 9, seems like it likes idle, or WFO nothing in between.



I usually leave it on a 4 unless someone needs a smackdown!



Erin