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Build-it-yourself 48RE kit?

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BDaugherty

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OK. I need advice. One of my customers has a 2007 3500 4x4 Megacab dually. The cummins engine and 48RE transmission are both 100% stock and original with 210,000 miles. 80% or more of those miles are pulling heavy. The trans has been serviced about every 50-60K. The transmission starting being hard to get out of park about a year ago. I determined that the problem was the detent ball in the valve body, not the interlock in the steering column. About 2 weeks ago, the shift lever got real loose and it was hard to start the truck at times because the neutral safety switch was not being pressed. Last Thursday, it went out completely. No amount of moving the shift lever around had any effect on the transmission. The shaft going into the side of the trans from the shift cable is moving, but nothing else is happening. The truck will start fine, but the trans is stuck in park.



I'm not a transmission expert, but I am one of the few people this guy trusts to work on his stuff. I think the shaft that is being turned goes into the valvebody. Can I just install either a reman or aftermarket VB? The tough decision is that even though the transmission pulls and shift normally once it's in gear, it still has over 200K with most of it loaded. If I have to go very far into it, it just makes sense to do it all. I haven't torn into it other than looking at the linkage move the shift shaft from the outside using a mirror and flashlight. Money is very much an object as this issue has come at a bad time for my customer.



Should I:

1. Drop the pan and possibly pull the VB to investigate further?

2. Order a rebuild kit and reman VB?

3. Buy someone's aftermarket rebuild kit to beef everything up a little? The engine will remain stock, but the TC always felt a little loose.

4. Pick up a wrecked '07 4door long bed dually and swap in the G56, new South Bend DD clutch, ECM, pedals, Tcase, Dshafts (front anyway)?

5. A local trans guy that I personally trust will rebuild the auto using better bands and clutches and a billet single disc converter and flush the coolers for $3500 including R&R. We are about an hour from Garmon's Diesel, but I just don't think my customer can swing that kind of coin right now.



OK. Educate me TDR. Thanks in advance for all the advice to come.

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If you need to do this on a budget (sounds like you do) I would call Brockport transmission in Rochester, NY and ask for Ben. He can tell you what parts you will need and where to get them. I had him rebuild my transmission over a year ago and it has been flawless from day 1. He built mine for towing but has also built them for 1200hp sled pullers. For giggles, search Brockport transmissions on YouTube and look for the black Ram pickup. He built that truck and transmission for the sole purpose of seeing what breaks first so he can strengthen it.
 
BDaugherty, if your customer is counting on his truck to make a living, the most expensive thing he could do would be to patch something at this stage of the game. Breaking down away from home, more down time, etc, will be much worse than the cost of fixing it now. I feel his pain. Mark
 
The shifting problem can likely be fixed with a new VB. Its a good bet the stress form the detent ball sticking has caused the shift lever to detach somewhere. The lever can move but it its attached pieces don't move it won't come out of park and the manual valve won't be moved. A quick fix would be a VB.

With those miles and towing heavy thats is an excellent testimony to how good the transmission really is if maintained and not taken beyond its design limits. However, it is likely showing wear and may quit at any time. It may go a long while yet also, but, it is a chance.

For the most part, a good transmisison builder can easily build one of these units to last. They are relatively simple and easy to put together. Depending on what the builder wants to charge a rebuild can be put together for around $3000 including a new upgraded TC and internal parts. Just depends on how much he wants to spend for peace of mind.
 
I'm going to drop the pan tomorrow and then probably pull the VB. I understand his need to have it back on the road, but I'm concerned that installing a new VB may just get it to last until the front band wears deeply into the drum or something really does let go. Question is, if I can fix it with a reman VB, where is the best place to buy one?
 
Garmons is close, as good as any.

Blacks Diesel in Adairsville might be worth some investigation.

Suncoast is also good, and relatively close.

Just depends if you want a local ear to bend when things don't go as planned. ;)
 
OK. So it looks like it's not as bad as we initially though. What I found is that the arm on the side of the trans that clamps around the "D" shaped shaft going into the VB broke from the excessive force required to get the trans out of park. Initially, it really looked like everything was moving like it's supposed to. Once I dropped the pan, I could see that there was no movement and I looked closer at the lever and shaft. I've ordered a new arm and a Sonnex park detent repair kit. Looks like this trans will live on. I know it has a lot of wear, but it will be interesting to see exactly how many miles this thing can rack up once I take care of this issue. This truck normally pulls equipment on the orange 12 ton trailer.
 
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