Bull Bar/Cooling Issues

[DaveHess]

I posted a couple of days ago about a cooling problem I am having. After a lot of research, I think I boiled the problem down to this: If I had a thermostat problem, I would overheat at idle. But since my idle temp is good (190) and my problem is when under a load, it makes me believe I have an airflow problem. I have checked my radiator, charge air cooler (intercooler), and condensor as well as the transmission cooler and P/S cooler. All are clear and free of debris. Which brings me to an interesting question. In April I installed an Aries 4" Bull Bar on the truck. The main hoop goes across the main horizontal cross beam of the grille but the uprights cut across the grille. The cross bar of the bull bar is up high enough to make it just a little inconvenient to open the hood but I can angle my wrist upside down over the top of it and unlatch the hood. I also added 2 PIAA fog lights that are mounted on the bull bar's cross bar meaning to open the hood, I put my arm between the lights. Is it possible that this Bull Bar is restricting that much airflow to cause the truck to run 215 to 220 under load at highway speeds? Does anyone else have this Bull Bar?

 

[rbattelle]

Can you post a photo? Are the fog lamps in front of the grille?



Have you cleaned the radiator and A/C condenser?



Also, beware assuming that if you had a bad thermostat you'd overheat at idle. Remember that a diesel makes almost no heat at idle. It might actually be possible to idle with a closed thermostat and balance the heat load with transfer just from the block!



-Ryan

 

[jgillott]

I am not familiar with that particular bull bar, but I can believe that it and the lights could block the air enough to heat the truck up some. We have a 8 1/2' plow that we use on our '04. 5 and there have been a few times that we have had to drop it down a little on the road when I see the temp climbing. You don't see a temp problem when plowing, only when you have that blade up in front of the grill at road speed. I suspect the same thing is going on there for you on a smaller scale.

For all they cost, It wouldn't hurt to throw a new thermostat in there just to rule out that possibility.

 

[JFought]

lots of us have full frt replacement bumpers. yes they block air, but i really do think thats your issue.

When the last time you yanked the radiator and took it to the shop or car wash to get all the crap out of the fins?

I used a bent coper pipe (while in the truck) and was somewhat surprised of the stuff that came out.
I will probably yank it and truly clean it this fall.

If you look straight down, you should see dirt, leaves, "crap".

 

[DaveHess]

I put a new Cummins stat in tonight and like before, in town and interstate driving went very well. The needle never touched the 200. I removed the bottom skid plate from the Bull bar and removed my screen from the front of the coolers. I did inspect between the condensor and the Charge air cooler (CAC) and between the rad and CAC. I saw absolutely nothing between any of them. Just for giggles, I bought one of those sink drain "hair removal tools" and fished it between the coolers just to make sure.



Ryan: The fog lamps are in front of the the body just below the grille. They are 6" across. I tested the new stat and it opened all the way in near boiling water and closed as would be expected sitting on the counter. I have a heck of a time trying to post pictures here. I will try though.



Not to be argumentative, but I have a hard time believing this bull bar is causing this. I can't be the only TDR member with this bar on their 3rd Gen.

 

[DaveHess]

Hopefully there is a photo attached...

I have since removed the skid plate section and moved the license plate back where it was originally.

 

[jgillott]

It doesn't appear from your picture that your bar and lights are blocking enough to cause your problem as described.

 

[PMould]

dave. how about taking everything off,then run it, with t. t. then you will know for sure . I think that will be the only way to find out for sure. just my thoughts, good luck!pete.

 

[S.Morris]

The lower bar and skid plate , do appear to be able stop a significant amount of air that would flow in under the bumper.



One thing you said earlier " I removed my screen" . I have found that a screen in front of rad etc will stop/decrease a SIGNIFICANT amount of air flow especially if the heat load is pushing the limits. Increasing screen hole size up to 1/8" holes instead of makes a significant difference. BTDT in another application

 

[Prairie Dog]

I've been wanting one of those but it looks to me like the bar blocks the opening in the middle of the bumper almost completely. Isn't that where the trans and oil coolers are?

 

[mwilson]

The lower bar and skid plate , do appear to be able stop a significant amount of air that would flow in under the bumper.

I wonder if the skid plate is the culprit as well. Not blocking air but acting as a disruption of air flow perhaps?????



Mike.

 

[SRay]

Davehess: I have a big push bar myself with screen, bars and main posts, all can cause airflow restrictions but the only cooling issue I've had even though my truck is a 1997, was the auto transmission overheating under load. No issues there now with manual installed.

My friend with a 2003 has a plugged rad which has coolant hovering around 225-230°f while pulling forage wagons loaded with chopped hay. Daily driving, the truck is good.

Also The fan clutches are electric, likely your fan is not coming on. They're working even while driving down the highway. They come on when it's needed.

Sray

 

[DaveHess]

Thanks for the responses guys! I read somewhere and now I can not quote my source, that the Vistronic receives its commnads to engage for water temp reasons, at about 207 degrees. This is a concern because I am pretty sure I was exceeding that. But then again, our temp gauges are a best guess.



PrairieDog: In all of this, even when the engine temp was showing over 200, my transmission temp never exceeded 195 and most of time hovered at 180.



SRay, I have contemplated purchasing a 1500 CFM electric fan and install it as a pusher. But I think all I am doing is slapping a band-aid on a problem that did not exist until July of this year.



And the other troublesome item, the P0483 code has not reared it's head since my return from CO even after towing last weekend without a stat.

 

[SRay]

Davehess: since our engines are the same as tractors, they work hard in the field without any air flow from driving other than the fan doing all the work. So I don't think electric fan will help the mechanical fan be better.