Bully Dog not Working???

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I need to find out if anyone else has had a problem getting the Bully Dog Propane system to work? I'm gonna try to get it working this weekend. Here's what's happening:

I went through some troubleshooting with Phil and Michael and they had concluded that the regulator was bad. Installed a new one today, and still have the same problem. When I flip the switch, my rpms only go up about 50rpms when when the engine is at 2000rpm. I moved the feed line a little closer to the turbo, but that didn't help. It was at about 8" and I moved it in to about 4". I've trimmed the end of the feed line at an angle and drilled a 1/4" hole about 1" above the end of the feed line. I am using a BBQ propane tank with one of those new couplings on it. Any ideas?

Thanx

 

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Banshe, Don't know if this is the problem or not but on the new gas grill tanks like you are speaking of they have a valve built in that closes of the gas supply if it senses that the flow rate is to high. I don't know if the system you are using is pulling to enough gas to set it off but I would check it, also if you get it figured out post your impressions with it as I'd like to hear what the improvement is.

 

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I agree with maintence man. It sounds like there is not enough gas flowing from the tank. I used a P. O. L. fitting that screws into (inside) the new valves on the 20# RV (BBQ) tanks. This gives plenty of gas flow.

It looks like this: #ad


If you are using a P. O. L. fitting like the one above, or the one below that screws onto the outside threads of the propane tank valve. If it has a "pin Hole" for the gas flow (Lots of them do. common gas grill fittings don`t flow much LP) then there is your problem.

#ad


See this older thread on Bully Dog Propane system: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum3/HTML/001588.html


Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 10-22-2000). ]

 

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Thanx for the responses. I have tried both the new and older style tanks, however, I have stayed with the same POL style hose adapted to the Bully Dog hose. For the older tank, I installed one of those adapters so I could use the POL hose. Looks like the new POL hose fitting might be too restrictive. Guess that's what I'll look at next.

Thanx
Banshe Bill

[This message has been edited by Banshe (edited 10-22-2000). ]

 

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OK, Replaced the new style POL connector with old style. Also drilled the hole a little larger. I screwed teh adapter into the bottle and opened it up. I get plenty of gas at a pretty good rate now. I tested it before I drilled the hole. Now I get about 10 times the flow as before, but it still didn't improve. I still get about a 50-75rpm increase when idleing at 2000rpm and I engage the switch. Any other ideas?

Thanx

 

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Banche,

I wouldn`t really go by the rpm increase to judge if the system is working. My RPM`s don`t really increase when the system is set to the max.

Let me run you thru the regulator setting again.
1) Put a jumper on the Hobbs pressure switch. I used 2 alligator clips and a piece of wire.
2) Start truck and arm the system (turn on the rocker switch)
3) Turn the big screw on the regulator (under the black cover) IN until the engine starts to miss. Don`t touch the other screw on the side of the regulator with the locknut.
4) Then back it out about 1 full turn.
5) Remove the jumper from the pressure switchand test drive the truck. When the boost pressure hits about 8 lbs the propane will start flowing. You should notice a BIG improvement in acceleration.


Where did you put your pressure switch?

Does the rocker switch light come on when you switch it?

You should be able to hear the Propane on/off solenoid (attached to the regulator)"click" when it gets the power from the pressure switch above 8 lbs.

Make sure the electrical wiring on the system is correct. Use a test light if needed.

Make sure the pressure switch & Solenoid are opening. Get a old 12 volt light bulb socket and bulb. Attach 1 wire to the pressure switch on post that goes to the solenoid. Ground the other wire. Stick it under your windshield wiper. When the pressure switch activates, the bulb will light. The gas should be flowing.
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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 10-22-2000). ]

 

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Bill R
I don't have the Hobbs switch hooked up. My kit came with two pressure switches but the instructions only covered hooking up one for oil pressure. I presume the other one is for boost, but I'm waiting for a response from Bully Dog to confirm that. Did yours come with one or two pressure switches? I can here the solenoid click when I have someone throw the switch. The light comes in the switch. Since I can watch the rpms increase a little, I think the solenoid and associated wiring are OK. When I had the boys at Bully Dog help troubleshooting last week, I was told that with the rpm at 2000 I should see about a 400 rpm increase. I haven't tried it on a test run by kicking it on when my boost is up. Maybe I should do a trial run next.

 

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Banshe,

My kit came with the Boost switch. No oil pressure switch. Instructions had only the boost pressure switch directions.

Even with just an oil pressure switch, you should be getting gas flow when the truck is running. The same as me having the boost switch set to activate @ 2 lbs. You shouldn`t need high boost to notice the propane in the intake air. Just off idle should be stronger.

See this question:

When you turn the regulator adjusting screw(under the black cap) IN with the system on and truck idleing, can you get the engine to miss & shake and want to stall? It you can. I`d say everything is ok.

The Boost switch is a better safety feature than the oil pressure switch. If you accidently left the system on in cold weather and started the truck when the intake grid preheater is cycling... . more of a concern with post engine start heater grid cycling.
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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 10-22-2000). ]

 

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Bill R

Yep, when I adjust the screw in I can get the engine to idle real rough so I back the screw out a half turn or so. I haven't had to adjust the screw on the front. Where'd you install the boost pressure switch?

Thanx

 

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Sounds like some real BOMBING to me.

 

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Banshe,

You need to have a "signature" of your truck. Like I have at the bottom of this post.

I can tell you where to put the pressure gauge.

But I need to know whether you have a 12 Valve or 24 Valve truck.

And do you have a boost gauge now?

All this info should be in your signature.

Bear with me ... ... . Its Monday #ad



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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.

 

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Sportshift,
I'm headed your way this weekend. My sister lives in San Diego and has been diagnosed with cancer so I'm going out for support. Plan to drag my 5er with me so I'm trying to get my bombing done before I go.

Bill R
I replaced my 14cm Wastegated turbo with 16cm non-wastegate. I screwed the Hobbs switch into the npt port on the turbo housing to plug the hole. I guess that's as good a place as any for it. How do you adjust the switch? As I said earlier, my instructions don't cover the boost switch. I'll send my signature with this one so you'll see what I've got.

Thanx

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'95, 2500, 4X4, ext cab, 12 valve, auto transmission, 3. 54 back end, white, Banks Power Pak, Kondolay TC, Kondolay VB, Bully Dog Propane, 4" exhaust, 16cm turbo housing, Horton Fan, Bosch 215, BD Governor Springs, Brite Box, Wiley Coyote strapped to my grill
Parts on order are Griffin Radiator, Leather Interior, Wood Dash Kit

[This message has been edited by Banshe (edited 10-23-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Banshe

Under the rubber cap on the pressure switch is a 7/32 hex head nut. Using an allen wrench turn the screw OUT to have switch activate with less boost pressure. I have mine set for about 3 lbs boost, so I can get the added MPG`s crusing on the highway under low boost conditions.

Use the light bulb method if you can`t hear the solenoid click. I think my switch took about 2 full turns OUT to get it to activate at about 3 lbs boost.

Setting it lower does not really do much but waste gas. The propane likes to be mixed with lots of fuel to really work correctly.

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.

 

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Bill R
I wired the solenoid up through the boost switch. Will see what happens tomorrow, then may start adjusting the swicth for a lower pressure point. For towing, I don't know that I'd want it to kick in so low, but we'll see.

Thanx